...

Go Back   Lateral-g Forums > Technical Discussions > Chassis and Suspension
User Name
Password



View Poll Results: What chassis coating would you use?
Paint 38 23.17%
POR-15 27 16.46%
Powder coat 89 54.27%
Other 10 6.10%
Voters: 164. You may not vote on this poll

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-23-2011, 10:31 AM
wmhjr wmhjr is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 222
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by syborg tt View Post
Rust & pitting in most cases

New Frames - not needed
OK, so exactly what is different about elimination of rust and/or pitting that makes powder undesirable? If you are prepping the frame to begin with (dipping, blasting, etc) then what's the difference? Let's face it, if you're using POR, then you're not going for a super smooth attractive finish. I'm still not understanding what you're saying.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-23-2011, 12:18 PM
syborg tt's Avatar
syborg tt syborg tt is offline
Lateral-g Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 8,449
Thanks: 5,661
Thanked 2,043 Times in 1,100 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wmhjr View Post
OK, so exactly what is different about elimination of rust and/or pitting that makes powder undesirable? If you are prepping the frame to begin with (dipping, blasting, etc) then what's the difference? Let's face it, if you're using POR, then you're not going for a super smooth attractive finish. I'm still not understanding what you're saying.
Ok my choice would personally be bodywork and paint. Not POR becuase it isn't baby butt smooth.

I've seen shops powder a frame then smooth out the ruff spots and then paint it.

Unless you have hours upon hours to smooth ( metal work ) a rusty frame that you are trying to make look semi-show quality Powder isn't the way to go.

?? are you from Cali by any chance
__________________
marty-mj
Is a car ever really done???? It's like a ball of yarn unwinding, that has no end... Author DKz Garage

Projects - Syborg TT 4.3l v6 Mini-Truck, 2nd Chance Camaro & SLP575 Bumble Bee - 4Sale
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-23-2011, 02:11 PM
wmhjr wmhjr is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 222
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by syborg tt View Post
Ok my choice would personally be bodywork and paint. Not POR becuase it isn't baby butt smooth.

I've seen shops powder a frame then smooth out the ruff spots and then paint it.

Unless you have hours upon hours to smooth ( metal work ) a rusty frame that you are trying to make look semi-show quality Powder isn't the way to go.

?? are you from Cali by any chance
Nope. Not from CA.

If you're trying to build a total show car frame that will be suspended and have mirrors and lights under it, then paint is the only way to go. But then, you're not driving the car and CERTAINLY not "pro-touring" the car. I'm talking about high end custom paint.

How many people here are smoothing their frames to remove all pits and marks? 1%? 3%? My build competed (and won) in multiple ISCA shows. The frame was original, got sandblasted, I did some welding for reinforcement, and it got powdercoated. And that stuff is TOUGH. The other thing is that powder is thicker, and fills many of the imperfections that paint will not.

Guess we'll just agree to disagree, but the only 3 times I'd recommend paint over powdercoat are:

1) If you're building a total, all out, indoor ISCA show car that you're not planning to drive much.

2) If you have no money at all and do not have a reasonable powder coater in your area.

3) If you cannot pull the body off the frame.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-23-2011, 03:56 PM
56pickup's Avatar
56pickup 56pickup is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 455
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by syborg tt View Post
Here are my thoughts

Chassis - POR or Paint
Why: Most frames need a little body work and you can't powder it once it's body worked.

Anything that bolts to the chassis - Powder
Quote:
Originally Posted by syborg tt View Post
Rust & pitting in most cases

New Frames - not needed
Quote:
Originally Posted by syborg tt View Post
Ok my choice would personally be bodywork and paint. Not POR becuase it isn't baby butt smooth.

I've seen shops powder a frame then smooth out the ruff spots and then paint it.

Unless you have hours upon hours to smooth ( metal work ) a rusty frame that you are trying to make look semi-show quality Powder isn't the way to go.

?? are you from Cali by any chance


I agree 100%
__________________
Tyler
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-23-2011, 07:37 PM
ccracin's Avatar
ccracin ccracin is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Rostraver, PA
Posts: 2,077
Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Default

Just to throw this out there Marty and Bill,you can smooth with filler before powder. You just have to use the correct stuff. This works well, http://www.eastwood.com/hi-temp-lab-metal-24-oz.html
I have not used it, but a friend has and I have seen the results. Not bad at all. It can be thinned with solvent for spreadability and also smoothed with a solvent soaked cloth. This may be the route we go. Just thought you would both be interested.
__________________
Chad
Instagram - @cctek
https://https://www.facebook.com/CCTek

68 Chevy Pickup Project
Build Thread: https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=7505

THANKS TO: A&M Machine and Fabrication, CCTek (http://www.candctek.com), Hermance Design(www.hermancedesign.com), Paradise Road Rod & Custom, Harry Opfer Welding, Wegner Automotive Research, Clayton Machine Works
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-23-2011, 07:58 PM
syborg tt's Avatar
syborg tt syborg tt is offline
Lateral-g Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 8,449
Thanks: 5,661
Thanked 2,043 Times in 1,100 Posts
Default

Actually I agree with you. I like/love powder and your right most people don't need the Show Car look. I am going to powder most everything that I can on my car. The goal is to take it out and beat the crud out of it and Powder can withstand the abuse.

A good friend Powder a Mountain Bike Frame almost 15 years ago and I've beat the crap out of it and there isn't a chip on it. Plenty of dents - no chips.


Quote:
Originally Posted by wmhjr View Post
Nope. Not from CA.

If you're trying to build a total show car frame that will be suspended and have mirrors and lights under it, then paint is the only way to go. But then, you're not driving the car and CERTAINLY not "pro-touring" the car. I'm talking about high end custom paint.

How many people here are smoothing their frames to remove all pits and marks? 1%? 3%? My build competed (and won) in multiple ISCA shows. The frame was original, got sandblasted, I did some welding for reinforcement, and it got powdercoated. And that stuff is TOUGH. The other thing is that powder is thicker, and fills many of the imperfections that paint will not.

Guess we'll just agree to disagree, but the only 3 times I'd recommend paint over powdercoat are:

1) If you're building a total, all out, indoor ISCA show car that you're not planning to drive much.

2) If you have no money at all and do not have a reasonable powder coater in your area.

3) If you cannot pull the body off the frame.
__________________
marty-mj
Is a car ever really done???? It's like a ball of yarn unwinding, that has no end... Author DKz Garage

Projects - Syborg TT 4.3l v6 Mini-Truck, 2nd Chance Camaro & SLP575 Bumble Bee - 4Sale
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-09-2011, 05:36 PM
ProTouring442's Avatar
ProTouring442 ProTouring442 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Harriman, TN
Posts: 1,331
Thanks: 19
Thanked 37 Times in 17 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by syborg tt View Post
Actually I agree with you. I like/love powder and your right most people don't need the Show Car look. I am going to powder most everything that I can on my car. The goal is to take it out and beat the crud out of it and Powder can withstand the abuse.

A good friend Powder a Mountain Bike Frame almost 15 years ago and I've beat the crap out of it and there isn't a chip on it. Plenty of dents - no chips.
I don't know... I've seen too many Harley frames that, after a few years of abuse, are peeling due to rust migration that started from a simple chip. Of course, everything under my car is semi-flat black or undercoat, but I really like a good paint as it can always be sanded and repainted wherever it needs it. Plus, if I make a modification, I don't have to worry about the heat, I just scuff and paint.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
__________________
Never met a man with real talent who felt the need to deride the efforts of other.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-11-2012, 07:37 AM
CraigMorrison's Avatar
CraigMorrison CraigMorrison is offline
Lateral-g Supporting Vendor
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Washington State
Posts: 493
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Not sure if it has been mentioned, when we did our '55 chassis, the powdercoating shop did a base coat in zinc and a color topcoat. Both were powders. So, if it does chip, the zinc will offer rust protection. Pretty cool and something to think about for the powdercoat votes.
__________________
Art Morrison Ent.
www.artmorrison.com
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-11-2012, 08:00 AM
jy211's Avatar
jy211 jy211 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Miami Florida
Posts: 1,243
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

I had the frame on my 55' project powdercoated.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:12 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net