T56 with LS7 clutch?

[Musclerodz]

should work with a correct sized spacer. we are running a ZR1 clutch behind a magnum t56 and I have the info that was given to me to make it work somewhere saved.

[LAMBSKIN71]

Thanks,
The space idea seems the logical solution to me too, do you forsee any issue from moving the slave out on the input shaft 3/8"? And what is the deal with the three fingers on the pressure plate that stick up further than the rest, I get that its self adjusting but I didnt understand how that would affect the way the rest of the parts worked or shouldnt work together, according to Mcleod.

[Nine Ball]

Now there is a 1/4" spacer between the bell housing and trans case from Mcleod

What is this spacer for? Can you remove it?

What is happening is that your slave cylinder doesn't have enough travel to fully disengage the clutch. That spacer is likely the cause of it. Since you moved the trans 1/4" backwards, that means the slave now has 1/4" less travel into the clutch. Put another 1/4" spacer behind the slave, where it mounts to the trans, and you should be good to go.

Also, be sure you have an adjustable clutch master cylinder, with a threaded rod. That will also help you fine tune the engagement point of the clutch.

[dhutton]

Just about all you would ever want to know and then some:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...need-shim.html

This has got me wondering now since I used an LS7 clutch and no shim. Should be starting it in a few weeks so I will see how it goes. I might order that shim kit just in case.

Don

[MaxHarvard]

Camaro Performers did a really good write up on how to measure for correct slave cylinder depth. It's the Feb 2012 book... really good article.

[LAMBSKIN71]

Initialy the .25" spacer is because aparantly the input shaft of the T56 is longer than the automatic that was originaly behind the motor, keep in mind my motor is a truck motor so the crank shaft is different, it uses the small pilot bering, when I stabbed the tranny the first time the in put shaft was bottoming out before the bellhousing was mating up with the back of the block.

If anyone else needs a slave spacer let PM me and let me know and Ill talk to the machine shop and see if it'd be something they would be interrested in making and selling on here.Their pricing seems to be reasonable.

[GeoffP]

So does your engine have the thick crank flange like some of the truck engines or is it the thin LS style crank flange? I also wondered if the truck crank used a smaller pilot bearing - is it the same as small block chevy or something else? Thanks! You saved me some grief on my build... I should mention that I also bought a complete LS3/LS7 clutch setup complete with the flywheel so any info you can share would be really helpful!!

[67ragtp]

Originally Posted by Musclerodz

should work with a correct sized spacer. we are running a ZR1 clutch behind a magnum t56 and I have the info that was given to me to make it work somewhere saved.

Mike, Any chance you could share this info, Im curious what kind of TOB gap is necessary for this dual disk setup and if a standard fbody slave will work with it. Does the complete clutch assy move the fingers to close to the trans face requiring a spacer, I think katech uses some kind of bell housing spacer for ls9 setups.

Rich

[GeoffP]

I'll just plan to pre-assemble my engine to the trans so I can check everything prior to putting it in the car. Sounds like it'll be time well spent!

[LAMBSKIN71]

Still waiting on Machine shop to cut the spacer, went back and re measured, looks like .450 is going to be the magic number, for my set up at least. I am still concerned about the three raised fingers on the LS7 pressure plate, not sure how that is going to affect things, I was told to meassure to the rest of the fingers that are about 1/16" lower than the three,