'69 Chevelle - Project TIMACHN

[coolwelder62]

Welcome aboard.We need more Chevelle build's going on here.

[Rick D]

Welcome to our slice of the web Looks like a nice car to start with! You have a great idea and realistic one at that about building the car AS you enjoy it, so many buy them tear them down buy a bunch of parts and then a year later you see the project or parts up for sale and the guy never even got to,enjoy the car.

[barrrf]

Im a bit more of a realist. I only have an hour here or 2 hours there to do things at this point in time - plus I want to drive it. And I know if I tore it down without having the parts to put it back together, it would end up being someone elses project.

BOught me a 6.0 truck engine for $400 last night with harness and 'puter. Wasnt really ready for that yet so I still need to go out and get an engine stand. WOnt start building that for awhile but kinda wanted that engine for that price.

[Steve68]

Nice ride,
little progress at a time,
better to keep it running and driving then turning it into a giant work bench in the garage!!!

[hotwhls]

My first hot rod was a 1972 chevelle and I really miss that car. But I always thought of the chevelle as the best muscle car "my oppinion" and I always thought that is should have a BIG BLOCK to take up the room in the engine compartment. Just build that 396 it looks cooler than an LS motor that everybody else and there brother has. Well anyways the car looks great and just drive it and enjoy it and build it whenever you have the extra funds

[barrrf]

I have since installed 3 point seat belts. and reinstalled the a-pillars and dash board uncovered. I cant get the dash pad into the upholsterers until the 12th. So once thats done I'll slap the dash back on and take some shots. I did however, color match the tired old pitted tail light bezels and polished the plastic. Not sure if I like it yet or not.....or if I do like it should I repaint the black inside of the bezel or not.

Color Matched


Not



Progress is slow on this car - Im too busy driving it to work on it. And heres a pic for photography buffs (shot with Canon T3i)

[barrrf]

Had the dash pad covered and stitched.

Only good pic I have of it now. Also shown is , gauge bezel painted, metal dash part painted silver along with column, A-pillars covered with soft touch vinyl (really nice stuff), kick panels redyed black, vents painted black, tach reloacted from top center of dash. Im going to call the dash area done for now until I can fund VHX gauges, new carrier, and ididit column. My next thing to do is find a nice steering wheel. Then in a couple weeks I'll start on the door panels - I figure this to be a good month long project.

I know the stitching isnt perfect. But thats fine, I wasnt expecting it to be.

[barrrf]

Update: So I strayed from my original path of just replacing the core support and cleaning up the front suspension with some powder coat and new bushings. Whilst I did replace the core support, I also replaced the A-Arms and springs in the front, new alternator, lower alternator bracket (was missing), new CPP 3" springs in back, body bushings, and seats.

4/15/13 - Everything removed from drivers side. Gonna clean up the frame and paint before putting new stuff on.


Gross old stuff on the ground. It was at this point I decided to buy all new stuffs. I waffled a bit. But I got really frustrated with trying to remove the old bushings, so I chucked the a-arm and hit up ebay.


Rats nest behind the firewall. This is how it came to me. Its the horn relay (life of the car apparently) and the voltage regulator. 2 things that are curious about the factory build/wiring. 1.) The horn relay needs constant 12v power. Without it the car has absolutely 0 power. None. Cant even turn it over. 2.) All of the passenger side wires run in front of the core support on the outside of the car. I believe all of the wires were run and the connectors put on after that. Because I could not pull them back through - the connectors were too big. I had to cut 5 wires and put them back to together as a semi temporary fix.


4/19/13 - Grille, headlights,header panel, ect removed


Still 4/19/13 - Everything is off. Reassembly can begin.


4/30/13 - New A-Arms with Energy Suspension Bushings and Proforged ball joints with Hotchikis 2" drop springs. Im impressed the sway bar link are roto-joints. Not bad for cheap a-arms. .

*Disclaimer - I really really wanted UMIs with tall BJs but the coin wasnt there and I wanted to stretch my buck a bit further. So I bought these CPP A-arms for $279 shipped. I bought the Proforged BJs at the same time with the intention of swapping them out immediately. When the arms arrived, I disassembled them and installed the new bushings and ball joints. I reused the original ball joint grease boots because they fit better then the Proforged ones for whatever reason. I also painted them silver - just because. What I did leave however, is the sway bar end links. The lower connection is a roto-joint as opposed to the OG bushing method.




Still 4/30/13 - Caliper bracket - steering linkage shot


5/4/13 - Painted new core support to install.


Another shot of some more stuff installed. Also, some wires just hanging around.


Some poly body bushings to show. Yes theyre on the whole car and not just right here.


Brackets and header panel reinstalled


Filler panel and headlights reinstalled. Used all new headlight bucket hardware and springs. Decided against installing retrofit projectors at this time because I just wanted to get the car on the road. Will install later - requires cutting headlight buckets and core support. So I just put in H4 highs (replaces T3s) and installed new relay harness. OEM wiring sends all headlight power through the headlight switch - makes for dim lights. Relays are the way.


5/5/13 - Forgot to take some pics along the way. So in this pic I have the fender wells reinstalled (painted silver), core support bracket reinstalled, and dirty **** reinstalled. You can also see new CS130 Alternator. It bothers me to no end to put old **** back on, but, this isnt an unlimited budget build. So I make due. I couldve cleaned some things up I suppose but I was in a damn hurry.


5/5/13 - Had old Edelbrock Q-Jet 850cfm carb on there. I bought this 770cfm Holley Street Avenger to use instead. Holy off idle hesitation batman. Took some research and some parts but it is tuned up and makes way more power than the Q-Jet did.

But I learned a lot about the Holley carb. Most people said the lean condition I was experiencing (popping out of the exhaust, off idle hesitation) was caused by vac leak or improperly set accelerator pump. So this gave a place to start. I removed the accel pump diaphragm and checked the primary squirter size. Everything seemed to be good there. I reinstalled those parts and set up a slightly more aggressive pump cam with a longer squirt duration. Still hesitated pretty bad but I could push through it and the car would move. So I bought a vac gauge and set the idle mixture screws, then the curb idle screw, and made sure the float levels were correct and also dialed the fuel pressure up from 4 1/2 psi to 6psi. Still a mean hesitation. Finally I decided to look at the primary and secondary metering jets. 68 and 76 respectively - yup, car is lean. Bought new jets and started with 72/76 combo. That almost did the trick - still a slight hesitation under light throttle. Went up to 76/82 - BOOM! MONEY! Now just waiting on my AFR gauge to arrive to see where I sit.

[214Chevy]

Bart, looks like you been logging in some man hours on the car? Keep up the good work...more pics.

[barrrf]

I figure about 80 or so hours including all of the blasting I did to the old stuff I removed/painted/reinstalled during the process. I dont mind reinstalling freshened parts but putting that plastic fan shroud back on made me want to vomit. still does in fact.