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  #1  
Old 01-16-2013, 10:29 PM
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FETorino FETorino is offline
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Between copying Bryce and you I should be able to dial my wagon in.

Love your car.

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Old 01-17-2013, 07:17 PM
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craig510 craig510 is offline
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Originally Posted by FETorino View Post
Between copying Bryce and you I should be able to dial my wagon in.

Love your car.

2 door wagon. Nice
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:40 PM
Karl Buchka Karl Buchka is offline
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Always love seeing builds where people aren't afraid to pick up the tools and build it themselves. Great job so far. Looking forward to seeing where this goes!
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:00 PM
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craig510 craig510 is offline
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Originally Posted by Karl Buchka View Post
Always love seeing builds where people aren't afraid to pick up the tools and build it themselves. Great job so far. Looking forward to seeing where this goes!
Thanks for the encouragement. I have a lot of fun building the parts, and I don't have the budget to pay to have it done. I am a mechanical engineer by trade so building parts just helps improve my skills. I have a great job with a full machine and sheet metal shop that I can use after work when I need to do some heavy work that I can't do in the garage.

Not worrying about re-doing work is one thing I have learned. Sometimes revision is the only way to find the solution.

Serpentine belt setup Evolution:

Rev 1: Junk bracket from Ebay

This blocked the timing pointer, and had junk hardware.

Rev 2: Custom Bracket



Test fitting mockup


Getto Break


Custom offset pulley, turned from 2 and welded.


.004" runout, at least as good as OEM


Dialed, 3 pulley setup.


Rev 3: Power steering added

Epic Fail, not enough crack pulley wrap = belt slippage and awful noise.

Rev 4: Added idler for 180 deg+ wrap = all good now



Stock 5.0 tensioner used for stock


Final setup works great

Don't forget to vent the KRC power steering reservoir if you are going to use a stock box. Otherwise the pressure will build and you will push a seal out of something.

-Craig

Last edited by craig510; 01-17-2013 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:27 PM
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craig510 craig510 is offline
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Ok Phase 2 officially begins.

I got one spindle cut down and tacked up to test for fit. Tomorrow I will modify the second one and finish blowing apart the front suspension.

With stock spindles and 1.25" spacer the wheel will physically bolt up to the car, but they sick out past the fenders and the rim hits the control arm well before lock.


I bought a spare set of '68 spindles back in August for this swap. I already had a 3D model from the first go around, so I modified it until it would tuck inside the wheel.





Upper ball joint clearance


Tie Rod clearance


17x9's with 255/40-17's on a Falcon.


I mocked up the rear a couple weeks ago. It rubs the leaf and has minimal tub clearance.
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:48 AM
Bryce Bryce is offline
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whats your plan to correct the geometry after cutting down the spindle?
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryce View Post
whats your plan to correct the geometry after cutting down the spindle?
I am planning on lowering the pickup points for the lower control arms and making a drop cross shaft for the upper arms. I am going to add offset slugs in the cross shaft and make offset drilled plates for the lower so I can adjust the roll center. My starting values will be to lower the upper shaft an additional inch. I already did a 1.375 "shelby drop" and moved them back .25.

The lower arm mount will get a vertical slots with some shoulders milled into it. I will make some offset plates, similar to the 67+ mustang eccentric eliminators, but turned vertical. Starting value will be down .75"

Overall, the arms will be about .75" longer to get the tires right to the edge of the fender.

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