After thinking about this today I didn't feel like I really answered the question of the OP and my comments were too general so I was going to edit it or delete it but if you guys feel like its a good response I'll keep it up.
To answer the OP a little more succinctly I'll add this:
I've shopped many "high end builds" that have a high end price tag, a shiny paint job, a fancy engine but have stock or mildy modified suspension. They typically don't get that high end asking price. I guess what I'm saying is that you need to balance your build for your target.... just like any successful project you need to know your end result and build your plan backward towards it. It really isn't worth dropping in that $30k powerplant in a car unless you are going to build out the rest of the car to that level. It may sound like common sense but you would be surprised how often it happens. I think it really comes down to poor project planning and people running out of $$.
The reality is that you don't build cars in this business to make money unless you are a shop that has the resources to do it in house at cost. If you are private citizen building cars in this day and age you are doing it for the love of the hobby and the personal satisfaction of building your dream. But if you are going to try it here are some suggestions:
The best route to get into a car "right" is to find one that someone else has put in the time and labor to restore and then mod it from there. Find a car that has solid sheet metal and paint as the costs associated with paint and body work seem to be the most difficult to control. This obviously can be a double edged sword with the number of "metal tape and bondo" jobs out there. Either educate yourself on paint and body practices so you can properly assess a car or find someone who can even if it costs you a few $$.
Upgrade your suspension and driveline but stick with "bolt in" components; the more involved the install the more the cost spirals. Fortunately there are so many components available nowadays that make this more feasible than ever before. The options for warmed over crate engines now are limitless... everything from mild to wild depending on your budget but keep in mind that you need to plan the rest of the build around that jewel you stick under the hood... and don't forget to budget for a pulley system if it doesn't come with the engine. Don't get into major custom items like superchargers, turbos, or intercooling unless you can find an off the shelf kit that gets you 90% of the way there because they suck rediculous amounts of time (and thus $$$) to fabricate and tune.
Stick with a fairly stock interior... Improve the items the driver touches.. install some nice seats, add some custom touches like a center console and custom gauge pods but spend the time to do it right and make it look like it was born there. Another pet peeve of mine is when something looks like an add on... do it in a style that looks like it would have rolled off the showroom floor that way. You will be surprised at how much value you can add with custom uphostry without breaking the bank. Make sure any repro parts you use on the interior fit well as a poor visual due to a $20 part can cost you curb appeal.
Brakes are another item often not properly balanced in a build... make sure they are proportional to the wheel size but that doesn't mean you have to buy the biggest 6 piston brake system on the market... if you are planning for resale most manufacturers make midline systems that are 2 piston or 4 piston that use the same big rotors to give the look and although they won't have the same performance as that Baer 6S ProTouring system you saw on (insert name)'s car but it also won't have the pricetag and will function better than any stock system for street driving.
Shop ebay, shop craigslist, shop swap meets, shop lateral-G classified section. People in this hobby are constantly upgrading parts and selling used ones. Builders have an advantage over the individual in that we buy parts in volume from vendors and get our parts at wholesale or dealer cost. I've heard that Summit Racing has actually extended their wholesale pricing to individuals who spend money on a regular basis so don't be afraid to ask. They can be more liberal with who they give better terms to since 90% of the time they are out of state for taxes and everything is on CC even for their wholesale customers. Of course for those of us who buy from Summit Racing/ Atech Motorsports we know the pricing isn't always that much better than retail.... but hey.. every little bit helps when you are trying to pay the bills!
With regards to what kind of car to build and popular colors.... Mustangs and Camaros are always popular; Mopars are a more limited clientele but the are a die-hard crew. I stopped taking pics of Pro-Touring first Gen Camaros at SEMA this year because there were so many. But really as long as you aren't into building Gremlins or Prius' if you do a solid job on a build you will always find a client for it. With the level we build these pro-touring cars it ceases to be a Ford or a Chevy... These are cars built from aftermarket parts and the parts don't care what badge is on the fender. Colors are really a personal taste thing but if you are painting the car I suggest sticking with late model factory colors. This saves time and money versus a "custom mix" especially if the car ever gets damaged and if you are helping a client choose a color you can send him to the car lot to look at an actual car in that color in the real world versus a test panel.
Ok.... nuff said again... I'm blaming it on cold medicine this morning and two glasses of wine tonight!
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
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