DSE Quad link rear suspension tuning

[Matt@BOS]

Hey Rich, first thing you might want to do is soften the rear bar. It will probably make a drastic differemce one way or another. I don't remember if we've discussed your front spring rates and bar, but if you let me know I can dig up some notes and we can compare feedback. If my notes match what you're experiencing, I might be able to help a little, and at least give Ron enough info to narrow down possible solutions.

[Track Junky]

Originally Posted by Ron Sutton

Let's dial in the valving curves first. We need to adjust the bleeds & shim stacks to get the low speed rebound numbers where we want them for grip ... without the high speed numbers being so stiff it upsets the car over rough surfaces.

What model of Penskes are you planning to buy ?

Planning on the 7500 DA's. I still need to weigh the car and calculate motion ratios before I order them. The guy that is going to build them for me is in Roseville.

[67ragtp]

Originally Posted by Track Junky

Taking rear bar out of it will relieve the car from getting loose. Not sure why you went to the stiffest setting. Was this also a DSE reccomendation?

And Ron's right......You wont get any faster without taking notes

To be brutally honest with you, I consider myself a pretty good wrench but when it comes to understanding suspension/handling set up, Im lost and need to learn. Im sure it wasn't a DSE recommendation, I often look at other illustrations to see what holes are being used.

Lots of rain in Jersey, as soon as I can get out I will try to get some testing documented.

Matt- Im running 550# front hyperco's front bar is set where DSE delivered it and the JRI shocks are set to there recommendation in the manual. It turns in real nice with the camber set up at negative 1.5 degrees toe in 1/16.

[intocarss]

Originally Posted by 67ragtp

To be brutally honest with you, I consider myself a pretty good wrench but when it comes to understanding suspension/handling set up, Im lost and need to learn. .

I feel your pain! I've been "trying" to learn road course and dirt set ups (two different cars & totaly different set ups) Going straight sure is much easier LOLOL

[Track Junky]

Originally Posted by 67ragtp

To be brutally honest with you, I consider myself a pretty good wrench but when it comes to understanding suspension/handling set up, Im lost and need to learn. Im sure it wasn't a DSE recommendation, I often look at other illustrations to see what holes are being used.

Lots of rain in Jersey, as soon as I can get out I will try to get some testing documented.

Matt- Im running 550# front hyperco's front bar is set where DSE delivered it and the JRI shocks are set to there recommendation in the manual. It turns in real nice with the camber set up at negative 1.5 degrees toe in 1/16.

DSE gave you a recommended shock setting. If it were me I'd be using that as a baseline but the bar is definitely to tight.

[Ron Sutton]

Originally Posted by Track Junky

Planning on the 7500 DA's. I still need to weigh the car and calculate motion ratios before I order them. The guy that is going to build them for me is in Roseville.

Mike is a wonderful guy to work with. We've been friends & working together for years and only 1 of 2 shock guys I work with. He & I are working on revalving a different brand of shocks for a serious PT guy currently.

If your budget will allow, I'd like to suggest you consider either the Penske 7300DA with base valve or JRI ST/08 DA with base valve. I'm guessing we're talking about 20-30% more $, but the performance difference is worth it, if you can afford it.

I'm a big proponent of racing within your budget, but at the same time, I don't like to make a purchase & then need repurchase something again to achieve my goals.

Talk to Mike about those two options, get his opinion & prices, then decide what works best for you.

P.S. Both are great shocks, but the JRI's have a tick less "stiction" and a broader range of adjustability.

[Track Junky]

Originally Posted by Ron Sutton

Mike is a wonderful guy to work with. We've been friends & working together for years and only 1 of 2 shock guys I work with. He & I are working on revalving a different brand of shocks for a serious PT guy currently.

If your budget will allow, I'd like to suggest you consider either the Penske 7300DA with base valve or JRI ST/08 DA with base valve. I'm guessing we're talking about 20-30% more $, but the performance difference is worth it, if you can afford it.

I'm a big proponent of racing within your budget, but at the same time, I don't like to make a purchase & then need repurchase something again to achieve my goals.

Talk to Mike about those two options, get his opinion & prices, then decide what works best for you.

P.S. Both are great shocks, but the JRI's have a tick less "stiction" and a broader range of adjustability.

I'm glad you know of him. That reassures the prior recomendation. I'll look into the 7300 Da's.

Is there anybody local that you know of with a set of scales?

[Ron Sutton]

Originally Posted by Track Junky

I'm glad you know of him. That reassures the prior recomendation. I'll look into the 7300 Da's.

Is there anybody local that you know of with a set of scales?

7300DA's ... with a base valve option. The basevalve is a big deal, allowing the shock to follow irregular surfaces better for more grip.

I sold my last set of wireless Intercomp scales to make a package deal. I kept my roll on scale platen, which is the bigger cost by far, but I need to buy another set of wireless Intercomp scales to go on them.

I have a long time racing buddy that will loan me his anytime. We'll need to scale your car at his shop or mine. If you really want to get trick, and learn a lot, we'll book time on a pull down rig.

[Track Junky]

Sounds great. Lets get together at your shop when you free up. It will have to be a weekend for me. PM with more details, contact info, and shop location.