My new shop

[rwhite692]

I have Armstrong "Imperial Texture" VCT tile (The name is odd since it has no texture) in my 24x36 shop. It's been down for about 4 years now, I'm quite happy with it. Occasionally gets a weld burn on it but since the color runs through the whole 1/8" thickness, you can take a razor blade to it and scrape it off. It's pretty damn durable, more than I had expected (note how well it holds up to pallet jacks, etc next time you are at your local supermarket.) And it was very cheap, and easy to repair if I ever decide I want to replace any tiles. The pics shown are right after I put it down, I have not done anything to maintain it since, other than to mop once in a while, and it still looks pretty decent, after four years of complete neglect. I think I will move stuff around one of these days and give it a buff and polish, seeing these pics again reminds me of how nice VCT can look, when it's treated well, LOL.

I just couldn't see spending $3k on a high end 100% solids epoxy process like Wolverine, which is about the only type of epoxy system I'd go with, if I were to do epoxy. I think that the concrete polishing/staining/sealing process is another nice option. -Rob

[MoparCar]

What did you have to do at the concrete joints? Did they have to be filled prior to the VCT?

[rwhite692]

Originally Posted by MoparCar

What did you have to do at the concrete joints? Did they have to be filled prior to the VCT?

I troweled the (1/8" saw cut) joints flush with an elastomeric type concrete seam sealer product (which I can't recall the specifics of, right now)...I was pleasantly surprised to have had ZERO "telegraphing" of the saw joint lines through the VCT tiles, which I was prepared to accept, if it did happen.

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by rwhite692

I troweled the (1/8" saw cut) joints flush with an elastomeric type concrete seam sealer product (which I can't recall the specifics of, right now)...I was pleasantly surprised to have had ZERO "telegraphing" of the saw joint lines through the VCT tiles, which I was prepared to accept, if it did happen.

I've heard Bondo does a good job as well.

[Jay Hilliard]

I used Sherwin Williams grey epoxy. I did mine in 2008 and no peeling so far. I did not use a top coat clear. If I want it looking new again, I can scuff the floor with a buffer and recoat.

If you want, I will dig up the exact part number.

[SuperB70]

For an old floor I cant say but when you guys are pooring new, check BASF product call'd Mastertop, in US it's Mastertop® Anvil-Top®300

Check it out, by far best thing you can put in your new floor.

In Europe its been widelly used in any kind of factorys, parking garages, shopping malls and so on. Any floor that has to stand for hard use. You can stained if you want.

Made my garage 7 years ago and still looks like new. No bad thing to say. It even prevent oil and other liquid s absorbing into to congrete.

[RDuke]

Any pictures? I've read the product sheets online and it sounds interesting.

Originally Posted by SuperB70

For an old floor I cant say but when you guys are pooring new, check BASF product call'd Mastertop, in US it's Mastertop® Anvil-Top®300

Check it out, by far best thing you can put in your new floor.

In Europe its been widelly used in any kind of factorys, parking garages, shopping malls and so on. Any floor that has to stand for hard use. You can stained if you want.

Made my garage 7 years ago and still looks like new. No bad thing to say. It even prevent oil and other liquid s absorbing into to congrete.

[Revved]

Originally Posted by rwhite692

I have Armstrong "Imperial Texture" VCT tile (The name is odd since it has no texture) in my 24x36 shop. It's been down for about 4 years now, I'm quite happy with it. Occasionally gets a weld burn on it but since the color runs through the whole 1/8" thickness, you can take a razor blade to it and scrape it off. It's pretty damn durable, more than I had expected (note how well it holds up to pallet jacks, etc next time you are at your local supermarket.) And it was very cheap, and easy to repair if I ever decide I want to replace any tiles. The pics shown are right after I put it down, I have not done anything to maintain it since, other than to mop once in a while, and it still looks pretty decent, after four years of complete neglect. I think I will move stuff around one of these days and give it a buff and polish, seeing these pics again reminds me of how nice VCT can look, when it's treated well, LOL.

I just couldn't see spending $3k on a high end 100% solids epoxy process like Wolverine, which is about the only type of epoxy system I'd go with, if I were to do epoxy. I think that the concrete polishing/staining/sealing process is another nice option. -Rob

That actually looks like it would work very well!

[Vegas69]

I have something very similar to the Armstrong tiles pictured in my detached garage and they are in terrible shape after about 10 years of service.

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by Vegas69

I have something very similar to the Armstrong tiles pictured in my detached garage and they are in terrible shape after about 10 years of service.

Chisel it off, spray adhesive remover, scrape with a razor scraper, clean again, rinse, burnish with aggressive pad, apply sealer and polish. It's as much fun as removing Dynamat.