1969 Camaro tru-turn

[Rod P]

on a addendum note, so after looking over different installs, my recommendation to EVERYONE is to measure your own car for its back spacing the one biggest factor I found in the installs is the brake packages that are used I found the some CPP brake kits with hubs pushes out the wheel mounting surface just over a 1/4 inch, and the some willwood kits push the mounting surface out almost a 1/2 inch, so unless you know that (you measured) the wheel mounting surface is still in the original location or you are using the very same Baer Brake package we used the 5.75 suggestion would be off by 1/2 inch, also please use the alignment settings given, make sure the sheet metal on your car is aligned, have good body bushings, the tru-turn kit pushes the tire width limit of a stock frame to max performance, so the rest of the assembly needs to be of the same caliber

[gray776]

Great write ups Rod! I agree that you should always measure for yourself especially with the differences in brake kits. Could you take one more measurement for me? It would be nice to have a reference with Ridetech's setup as installed, for dimension or track width to the rotor. Say from the frame to WMS, or spindle to WMS? Does that make sense? Then the rest of us could adjust by comparing that against our own brake systems to determine if our actual BS measurements seem correct.

Its probably not that important, given that we should measure ourselves, but thought it might help someone.

Thanks,

Jason

[jlwdvm]

Ya...what Gray said! I'm running Wilwood 13" 1-piece rotors.

[glr0212]

First off, thanks for the pictures and write up!

I see the car you used is a little higher than mine. Maybe I should bump mine up and realign it and see where i am at.

Here is my main question to you, and still some of the heartache I have with this setup. How do you drive a car with this setup when the fender is sitting on the wheel during a turn?? If the fender moves down at all its going right into the tire and rubbing like a mofo. (ie turning into a raised parking lot or making a high speed turn)

[Rod P]

Originally Posted by glr0212

First off, thanks for the pictures and write up!

I see the car you used is a little higher than mine. Maybe I should bump mine up and realign it and see where i am at.

Here is my main question to you, and still some of the heartache I have with this setup. How do you drive a car with this setup when the fender is sitting on the wheel during a turn?? If the fender moves down at all its going right into the tire and rubbing like a mofo. (ie turning into a raised parking lot or making a high speed turn)

the wheel negative cambers inward away from the fender that's part of the reason for the tall spindle...to help the camber curve, but you should roll the inner fender, I know it looks like it should hit.....but the wheel does camber inward, on my car I cant get a pencil between the fender and tire and with the camber movement it doesn't hit, even on extreme movement

[glr0212]

I think it is important! Giving a base track width or some other reference dimension will help people tremendously. I was a bit surprised to see the ridetech president say without qualification that you have to have a 5.75" BS.

Maybe since RodP has a setup on a stand he can give us that reference dimension.

Originally Posted by gray776

Great write ups Rod! I agree that you should always measure for yourself especially with the differences in brake kits. Could you take one more measurement for me? It would be nice to have a reference with Ridetech's setup as installed, for dimension or track width to the rotor. Say from the frame to WMS, or spindle to WMS? Does that make sense? Then the rest of us could adjust by comparing that against our own brake systems to determine if our actual BS measurements seem correct.

Its probably not that important, given that we should measure ourselves, but thought it might help someone.

Thanks,

Jason

[Damn True]

Originally Posted by gray776

Great write ups Rod! I agree that you should always measure for yourself especially with the differences in brake kits. Could you take one more measurement for me? It would be nice to have a reference with Ridetech's setup as installed, for dimension or track width to the rotor. Say from the frame to WMS, or spindle to WMS? Does that make sense? Then the rest of us could adjust by comparing that against our own brake systems to determine if our actual BS measurements seem correct.

Its probably not that important, given that we should measure ourselves, but thought it might help someone.

Thanks,

Jason

It seems to me that the critical measurement is WMS/WMS. I'd assumed that any size recommendations given by RT were based on using a duplicate of their setup. Change anything that impacts WMS/WMS (CA's, rotor hats, hubs) and those recommendations go out the window.

....and given the frequency with which there are variations between cars, even from the same year and same plant it seems incumbent on the buyer to do a lot of measuring before purchasing wheels & tires.

[Rod P]

Originally Posted by gray776

Great write ups Rod! I agree that you should always measure for yourself especially with the differences in brake kits. Could you take one more measurement for me? It would be nice to have a reference with Ridetech's setup as installed, for dimension or track width to the rotor. Say from the frame to WMS, or spindle to WMS? Does that make sense? Then the rest of us could adjust by comparing that against our own brake systems to determine if our actual BS measurements seem correct.

Its probably not that important, given that we should measure ourselves, but thought it might help someone.

Thanks,

Jason

agreed Jason I will take the extra measurements, I will remove the coilovers to get you guys the measurements at full drop, ride height, and full compression, I will try monday or tuesday, in between projects

[cwylie]

Originally Posted by Rod P

on a addendum note, so after looking over different installs, my recommendation to EVERYONE is to measure your own car for its back spacing the one biggest factor I found in the installs is the brake packages that are used I found the some CPP brake kits with hubs pushes out the wheel mounting surface just over a 1/4 inch, and the some willwood kits push the mounting surface out almost a 1/2 inch, so unless you know that (you measured) the wheel mounting surface is still in the original location or you are using the very same Baer Brake package we used the 5.75 suggestion would be off by 1/2 inch, also please use the alignment settings given, make sure the sheet metal on your car is aligned, have good body bushings, the tru-turn kit pushes the tire width limit of a stock frame to max performance, so the rest of the assembly needs to be of the same caliber

So the wilwood kit is narrower or wider than the baer?

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Originally Posted by cwylie

So the wilwood kit is narrower or wider than the baer?

The Wilwood hat that I have is a tick under 5/16" the Baer is under a 1/4". Point is you have to measure and measure again.