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Old 02-24-2014, 07:59 AM
glr0212 glr0212 is offline
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CW - I'm using C6 Z06 brakes from kore 3. they use a machined hub similar to the wilwood pictured above.

The fender bolts are not an issue with me. I get it, i can take them out or put a button head in there. That's not what worries me. I'm also not worried about rolling the inner part of the fender if necessary. What is disconcerting is seeing how the fender lays over the tire when the wheel is turned. The fender sits on the tire.

Seriously, you guys are helping me and I'm sure others out by going through this exercise with us. If you have more pictures or you have a car in the shop you can make a short video of the car maneuvering it will help my confidence tremendously. There is nothing worse than putting tons of time and money into something and then hitting a wall like this.

#1 i may need somewhere between 1/8" to 3/16" less BS (effectively pushing the tire farther out...) Will double check the measurements. I'm basing this on the fact that I do a little more than "graze the frame under full lock.

#2 I need to raise my car 3/4" (sad face)

#3 I need to add another -1.0 degree of camber (total of -1.5)

I'll keep y'all posted.
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:11 AM
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Vince@Meanstreets Vince@Meanstreets is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glr0212 View Post
CW - I'm using C6 Z06 brakes from kore 3. they use a machined hub similar to the wilwood pictured above.

The fender bolts are not an issue with me. I get it, i can take them out or put a button head in there. That's not what worries me. I'm also not worried about rolling the inner part of the fender if necessary. What is disconcerting is seeing how the fender lays over the tire when the wheel is turned. The fender sits on the tire.

Seriously, you guys are helping me and I'm sure others out by going through this exercise with us. If you have more pictures or you have a car in the shop you can make a short video of the car maneuvering it will help my confidence tremendously. There is nothing worse than putting tons of time and money into something and then hitting a wall like this.

#1 i may need somewhere between 1/8" to 3/16" less BS (effectively pushing the tire farther out...) Will double check the measurements. I'm basing this on the fact that I do a little more than "graze the frame under full lock.

#2 I need to raise my car 3/4" (sad face)

#3 I need to add another -1.0 degree of camber (total of -1.5)

I'll keep y'all posted.
I would wait to get the car running and aligned before you go and make drastic changes. If you are into the frame at full lock that might be ok. I'd like to see what the contact is like at a u turn steering wheel positions which is a lot less degrees than going to full lock. It's easier to do frame modifications than fender and body changes.
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:30 AM
cwylie cwylie is offline
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GLR- I just emailed Tobin and he states his kit actually removes width VS the stock setup. He states -.240 per side. Between that and your backspacing you should have plenty of outer fender clearance but it explains your swaybar issues.
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Old 02-24-2014, 01:36 PM
glr0212 glr0212 is offline
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Originally Posted by cwylie View Post
GLR- I just emailed Tobin and he states his kit actually removes width VS the stock setup. He states -.240 per side. Between that and your backspacing you should have plenty of outer fender clearance but it explains your swaybar issues.
That doesn't quite make sense given what I am experiencing on the fender side.

Its been a long time but I could have sworn when I bought the brakes that it was .25" wider per side, hence the reason I went with 6.25 BS. (That and Frank at prodigy telling me i needed 6.5")

I can always take out some BS with a spacer if that is the case. sounds like a re-hoop is eventually in my future either way.
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:06 AM
cwylie cwylie is offline
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Have you measured the actual backspace and width on your wheels?
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Old 02-27-2014, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glr0212 View Post
That doesn't quite make sense given what I am experiencing on the fender side.

Its been a long time but I could have sworn when I bought the brakes that it was .25" wider per side, hence the reason I went with 6.25 BS. (That and Frank at prodigy telling me i needed 6.5")

I can always take out some BS with a spacer if that is the case. sounds like a re-hoop is eventually in my future either way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cwylie View Post
Have you measured the actual backspace and width on your wheels?
Agreed! measure!! don't assume, I know Vince at meanstreets custom ordered a pair of Forgelines and they wouldn't fit...so he measured and found they sent the wrong offset, not saying that's the problem.....but here again....PLEASE measure your own gear folks NEW or NOT. its just a tape measure(not a special tool), it makes you smarter knowing the truth about your gear,
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by glr0212 View Post
Seriously, you guys are helping me and I'm sure others out by going through this exercise with us.
No problem, I'm a bit of a freak, (ask Vince) I get excited when I talk about suspension, most peoples eyes glaze, but not me, I don't throw numbers and Blah Blah around, I'm not that smart, I look at control arms, spindles, braces/brackets, angles, arcs, designs, and try to figure out how and why they arrived at that solution and how do i make it better or augment that solution, build that, test that, fix that


Quote:
Originally Posted by glr0212 View Post
If you have more pictures or you have a car in the shop you can make a short video of the car maneuvering it will help my confidence tremendously. There is nothing worse than putting tons of time and money into something and then hitting a wall like this.
I'm in California for a little bit with 3 events, packing, working on my car, 48 hour car, and add a little (if I can sneak out in the middle of all this) help to my friend David P. on his crazy ......build but I will either at one of the events or when I get back to Indiana get some prof of life video of the kit on a 69 turning and racing
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