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Old 04-12-2014, 08:05 AM
jlwdvm jlwdvm is offline
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Default The verdict...well, part of it.

I set the car at a ride height of 23 7/8" and turned the tires lock-to-lock in both directions and the results are: Full right turn- driver's side has 1/4" clearance from the bottom of the fender to the tire and passenger has 1/8" clearance. On a full left turn the driver's side has just over 0" clearance and barely touches the sub frame. Passenger side has 1/4" clearance.

Fender clearance becomes an issue on compression of the outside suspension on a hard turn. The fender (at least mine) will need to be massaged to gain clearance so the tire doesn't rub when the car rolls over during the turn. The inner fender will need some work so that the top of the tire doesn't hit on compression as well.

All in all, I think things turned out better than I expected. I am using a 275 Toyo R888 with a 18x9.5 rim with 6" back space. Camber was set at 1.7ish negative.

My car is still in primer with original front fenders that have inner lips that have been bent a little somewhere along the way. I tentatively plan on cutting out a section of the fender lip and welding in a new one that angles almost straight up to gain clearance on hard turns. That plan could change!
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:43 AM
mfain mfain is offline
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Don't know if this will help you, but it is a technique I use to verify clearance on not only the wheel lip, but also things like inside fender panels, brake lines, the control arms and tie rod. I build a tire/wheel profile out of plywood and bolt it to the front and back of a plywood disk that replicates the tire diameter. Then I remove the springs and run the suspension through its entire travel, rotating the wheel to check clearance on various components. The technique has proven especially valuable with very high travel suspensions. Unfortunately, the solution to issues usually involves a chainsaw. LOL

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Old 05-09-2014, 07:12 AM
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Don't know if this will help you, but it is a technique I use to verify clearance on not only the wheel lip, but also things like inside fender panels, brake lines, the control arms and tie rod. I build a tire/wheel profile out of plywood and bolt it to the front and back of a plywood disk that replicates the tire diameter. Then I remove the springs and run the suspension through its entire travel, rotating the wheel to check clearance on various components. The technique has proven especially valuable with very high travel suspensions. Unfortunately, the solution to issues usually involves a chainsaw. LOL

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Old 05-09-2014, 10:02 AM
glr0212 glr0212 is offline
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Can anybody give me an idea how many shims I need to hit -1.5 camber and 6 caster?

I know every car is different but id like to get some idea what it looks like
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Old 05-09-2014, 11:15 AM
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Can anybody give me an idea how many shims I need to hit -1.5 camber and 6 caster?

I know every car is different but id like to get some idea what it looks like
With the degree of variation from plant to plant and even within plants in the same model year there is no way to give you this estimate with any degree of reliability. Throw enough shims in there to clear the tire so it'll roll and take it to an alignment shop.
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Old 05-09-2014, 01:53 PM
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With the degree of variation from plant to plant and even within plants in the same model year there is no way to give you this estimate with any degree of reliability. Throw enough shims in there to clear the tire so it'll roll and take it to an alignment shop.
...or buy some basic alignment tools and align it yourself. It's not that hard. http://www.ridetech.com/store/quickt...-22-wheel.html
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Old 05-09-2014, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by glr0212 View Post
Can anybody give me an idea how many shims I need to hit -1.5 camber and 6 caster?

I know every car is different but id like to get some idea what it looks like
there's no set amount...due to factory tolerances back then, and after 40+ years everything is askew, on that note I put 2 1/8 shims on each bolt to start on my installs, hope that helps as a starter
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Old 05-11-2014, 09:04 AM
Bad94 Bad94 is offline
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Originally Posted by glr0212 View Post
Can anybody give me an idea how many shims I need to hit -1.5 camber and 6 caster?

I know every car is different but id like to get some idea what it looks like

Put 1/4" in the front and 1/2" in the rear and see how that looks, then do alignment.
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:19 AM
jlwdvm jlwdvm is offline
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I have an LS3 with a Corvette accessory drive system on it. It looks like I will be limited to about 3/4" of shims on the front of the A-arm on the drivers side before it starts to hit the PS pulley. Any chance I will need this many shims to get 1.5-2 degrees of negative castor?
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Old 05-12-2014, 11:12 AM
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I have an LS3 with a Corvette accessory drive system on it. It looks like I will be limited to about 3/4" of shims on the front of the A-arm on the drivers side before it starts to hit the PS pulley. Any chance I will need this many shims to get 1.5-2 degrees of negative castor?
Depending on the tolerances and condition of your subframe you should be able to get a bunch more caster with that many shims.
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