I appreciate all the replies! Sounds like you guys have it figured out. I think I'd prefer to push the fluid from the Master out of the calipers. One question: I have the Wilwood resi:
I would imagine that with all of these self bleeders, the success rate is going to be determined with how well the kit's adapters work with the end of the brake system you are dealing with.
The Mighty Vac comes with a large assortment of ends to put on the vacuum lines to connect it where it is needed. What I found though is the more connectors you use, the more areas there are for air to leak out which is frustrating. I would assume that the other kits that push from the MC side have similar issues but do not know that for sure.
What I found to work best is to use as few pieces as possible and be diligent that the connections are as tight as you can get them. On my rear calipers, the hose itself fits very snuggly on the bleeder screws and I route the hose so that it comes off the bleeder screw and turns up which leaves the open end of the bleeder in fluid after the air escapes. This works very well for the rears.
The hose does not fit as tightly on my front bleeders and while I can flush the old fluid out and get the caliper pretty well bled with just it, I still like to have a pedal pusher to get the last two bleeds as good as I can get them. Same theory, run the hose up from the bleeder to leave the open end immersed in fluid before closing it again.
All of this can be done under the car while it's up on the lift and all I have to watch for up above is not running the master cylinder out of brake fluid. So there is a little bit of back and forth involved, but not too much.
If someone with experience using the MC push type bleeders can chime in, how user friendly are they to use by yourself and how much of a mess is there to clean up in and around the MC once the lines are bled? How well do they adapt to different kinds of MCs as well.
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Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
I appreciate all the replies! Sounds like you guys have it figured out. I think I'd prefer to push the fluid from the Master out of the calipers. One question: I have the Wilwood resi:
Canister, drill 2 holes.
5m of clear plastic tube. This runs to the bleeder at the wheel
another 30cm of clear plastic tube, connects to the vacuum hose to the manifold (that also connects to the booster)
Put both tubes into the canister (I siliconed them in).
1 goes all the way to the bottom, 1 stays up toward the top.
Now stand by the MC, as it drains fluid fast so you need to be there to "top up" the MC
Start the car, let the engine do the work.
I bled all 4 wheels in under 10 mins
Just like the Mightyvac, but cheaper, quicker and less work
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68 Camaro 632 BBC 800+ HP Project (600Kw)
61 Buick Lesabre Bubbletop (daily driver)......miles of smiles
I have one of the Motive ones and it works great providing you can get the adapters to seal correctly. Most of the time it's just a matter of getting it tightened down enough and equally. Two biggest issues I have with it are a lack of a pressure relief valve(to release pressure before removing it), and the tubing sucks. It doesn't last but a couple years(sucks when it splits and you have a stream of brake fluid going all over your paint).
I also made my own that pressurizes the M/C.
Used a garden pump sprayer, some spare air chuck fittings, and made my own M/C cover plate out of some scrap aluminum plate I had ( but what Sieg suggested is golden). Threaded rod and wingnuts to hold the plate down. Plenty of youtube videos on it.
I have a MityVac that pulls vacuum at the bleeder, but never really felt like it did that great of a job.
Jeff-
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