The panty dropper - Lateral-g Forums

**glassman** · #1 06-04-2014, 08:43 PM

Dude, finally!!! Not on the work your doing, but getting the build over here lol.
I'd say call it "4F".....4 for the win?

Nice to see you tearing that beotch up. you'll be tearing it up before ya know it.....

Seriously though, good luck with it all and i'll be watchin ya

intocarss · #2 06-04-2014, 09:39 PM

Fooled again

Vince@Meanstreets · #3 06-04-2014, 09:46 PM

Looking good Trey!!!!

On the floor pan sheet metal to connectors, weld the top and seam seal the bottom....looks much cleaner.

**WSSix** · #4 06-05-2014, 05:26 AM

That's a good idea, Vince. I'll look into it. Thanks.

Last night while laying in bed, I remembered I had the parking brake cables here. I need to figure out how I want to route them before I weld the driver's connector in fully in case I need to pass through it as well. I should have time to take a look at it today.

Che70velle · #5 06-05-2014, 07:37 AM

That looks great Trey. Keep at it!

NOT A TA · #6 06-05-2014, 08:51 AM

I knew I was going to need the car up off the ground to do all the work safely. I decided to build cribbing/DSE stands. I need to get a better higher rise and lower profile jack to get the car all the way up. I still have one more level I could add to the cribbing with the wood I already have cut. Suggestions welcome on a quality jack that doesn't cost a ridiculous amount. For now, this will have to do

Looks like you're moving along! Here's how I get the car up high enough to get it on tall crib stacks.

**WSSix** · #7 06-05-2014, 10:45 AM

Thanks Scott.

Thanks John. How do you like that Craftsman jack? It's pretty low profile like it'll fit under our front subframes fine. Does it?

**GregWeld** · #8 06-05-2014, 09:36 PM

Don't forget that the jack MOVES with the car going up (or down) and needs to have ROOM to move without falling off your cribs...

Quote:

Originally Posted by NOT A TA

Vince@Meanstreets · #9 06-05-2014, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WSSix

That's a good idea, Vince. I'll look into it. Thanks.

Last night while laying in bed, I remembered I had the parking brake cables here. I need to figure out how I want to route them before I weld the driver's connector in fully in case I need to pass through it as well. I should have time to take a look at it today.

You can still use the factory pass through...just have to remember not to weld it closed.
I picked this Jack up last year to replace my broken Snap-on. My $430 Snap-on Jack mind you. I could have bought 3 and just toss when they break. When I was shopping I found most affordable where made over seas anyways. No way I am paying more than 300 for a jack with the spec I need.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-l...ump-61253.html

**WSSix** · #10 06-05-2014, 03:39 PM

Thanks for the jack info too, Vince.

I bought Lokar's brake cables a while ago but didn't install them since I was afraid the SFC's and or suspension choice would cause problems with any routing decision I made at the time. I also did not want to have the cables just cut across the underside of the car like factory did. So I'm looking at routing them in a clean manner. I've got some ideas. Luckily, I can go ahead and weld the connectors in completely and not cause any problems.

What I am curious about is, does anyone have any recommendations, based on experience, for routing the cables? For instance, even though the cable can bend all over the place since it's inside the housing/sheath, should I try to keep it as straight and direct to the brakes as possible? What about tightest bend radius? With the ideas I have swimming around in my head, the passenger side is going to be a pain compared to the driver's side. The driver's side is virtually a straight shot from pedal to brake. I'd like to keep the foot pedal brake I believe. Helps keep the console area clean.

Thanks