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Old 08-18-2006, 06:45 AM
Mike_M Mike_M is offline
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I'm glad everyone seems to think this is good stuff, I'm anxious to hear how it holds up on Penny as well. I've ordered the exact same stuff to do the underside of my camaro and hopefully some sound deadening inside (might use Fusor 804 for that). I figured if it's good enough for Penny, it's gotta be MORE than good enough for my heap! It does need a special gun, Fusor part no. 312: http://www.lord.com/Default.aspx?tabid=1207#312

I ordered the gun from this place: http://www.crestnetsales.com/sealers.htm
At $128.62 it's WAY cheaper than I could find it locally - I was quoted $275 for the gun here. Hopefully that helps, and I hope I'm not hijacking your thread, Steve! I don't post much, but I'm really enjoying following the progress on Penny, with more than a little envy!

Last edited by Mike_M; 08-18-2006 at 06:56 AM.
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Old 08-18-2006, 09:07 AM
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Steve1968LS2 Steve1968LS2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_M
I'm glad everyone seems to think this is good stuff, I'm anxious to hear how it holds up on Penny as well. I've ordered the exact same stuff to do the underside of my camaro and hopefully some sound deadening inside (might use Fusor 804 for that). I figured if it's good enough for Penny, it's gotta be MORE than good enough for my heap! It does need a special gun, Fusor part no. 312: http://www.lord.com/Default.aspx?tabid=1207#312

I ordered the gun from this place: http://www.crestnetsales.com/sealers.htm
At $128.62 it's WAY cheaper than I could find it locally - I was quoted $275 for the gun here. Hopefully that helps, and I hope I'm not hijacking your thread, Steve! I don't post much, but I'm really enjoying following the progress on Penny, with more than a little envy!
no problem.. these threads are supposed to be about passing along information that may be helpful and not just "hey, look at me!" type deals.

So far I like the Fusor undercoat. I will be curious how it holds up and and how it cleans up. It certainly looks nice and the best part is that it only added a few pounds to the car.

We used their structual foam on some voids in the firewall. That suff would be cool to fill all the A-pillars and other voids since it would stiffen the area and deaden sound.

Thanks for the comments on Penny.. she's getting there.
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1968 Camaro - Project Track Rat - 440 RHS LS
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Old 08-18-2006, 02:56 PM
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We put the line-x under my car and it seems to help with vibration and with sound deadening.
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Old 08-19-2006, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve1968LS2
SNIP...

We used their structual foam on some voids in the firewall. That suff would be cool to fill all the A-pillars and other voids since it would stiffen the area and deaden sound.

SNIP...
Hi Steve,

Yes the foam will help in the Stiffness of the "A" pillars, but your main concern should be in rotational stability. If at all possible I suggest that you "glue" in the front windshield and disregard the rubber boot.

The glued in windshield will add quite a bit to the overall stability of your unibody.

Just a suggestion.
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Old 08-19-2006, 09:21 AM
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Steve1968LS2 Steve1968LS2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SN65
Hi Steve,

Yes the foam will help in the Stiffness of the "A" pillars, but your main concern should be in rotational stability. If at all possible I suggest that you "glue" in the front windshield and disregard the rubber boot.

The glued in windshield will add quite a bit to the overall stability of your unibody.

Just a suggestion.
Cool idea but I hate the idea of pulling the basically new windshield.. also, how hard is it to remove it at a later date? (for repair)
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"A ship in port is safe, but that's not what ships are built for."

See Bad Penny run the cones: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8GUPPIX-92U

1971 Chevelle Wagon - Roadster Shop Chassis ProCharged Shafiroff LS and lots of yada yada

1968 Camaro - Project Track Rat - 440 RHS LS
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Old 08-19-2006, 11:59 AM
race-rodz race-rodz is offline
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hard to pull it without breaking..... yes-kinda. to better explain, most glass shops can successfully cut out a glued in window, but they will tell you right up front that it will probably break.

almost(if not ALL) new cars have glued in glass, usually the reason for removing it would be if it needed replaced.... and then it doesnt matter if its broke.

in your car with the full cage.... i dont see where the minor amount of extra stiffness from the glued in glass would "help", i would think that tieing the A-pillars to the front down bars(look at a pic of the a-pillar in a nascar) would do way more than glueing in the glass.
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Old 08-21-2006, 06:49 AM
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Default windsheild

Steve,

I would be shocked if you windshield is not glued in. Most glass shops will not put glass in the way they use to...buytle strips. They have a tendency to come out during a crash.

My glass was recently put in and they glued it. Better sealing with no wind noise as well.
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Old 08-21-2006, 07:23 AM
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Leadfoot1 Leadfoot1 is offline
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Default removing windshield.(no breaking...of course)

Breaking a windshield while removing???

That has never happened to me!

I had a friend tell me how to remove them a long time ago and i used his method ever since and never even scratched one.

Maybe you all know about it but i felt it could help if you don't.

The method involves 2 person. One in the car the other outside. You use a Piano cord and insert it thru the glue between the windshield and the frame (after removing all moldings and cowl grill if you don't want to take chance of scratchint it) a thin screwdriver will help making the start up hole.

Then, simply take your time with your buddy and "slice" the glue all the way around in a 'sawing like' motion from the in side out. It'll come right out and all that'll be left to do is cleaning. The piano cord are easily available and are metal so the cut the glue as it was butter and don't give up.

wear some gloves as it becomes hot at some point and the possibility of cutting yourself is there too.

removing a windshield is not something we look forward too but this method is fool proof and you will never fear windshields again!

Hope it helps,

Lead.
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New for summer '13. My latest find!!

48k miles, 100% original, 1969 Camaro coupe. Untouched, never apart and squeaky clean!!! 327/th350, A/C car. Gold on black w/vinyl top. Only add ons; Fast ratio box and SS396 wheels.

FINALLY!!! A car without rust repairs ever!!! None before, none coming!!! Cant come to modifying it tough....

...So, '67 Camaro project with my laying around stuff out of my black 'vert. 468 BB and YSI blower, braked th400, 12 bolt/spool, 35 splines etc. Complete Calvert suspension front and rear. 30x13.5 ET Streets, caged, lightened, slammed and running low 9's "Street car"
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Old 08-22-2006, 05:36 AM
SN65 SN65 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by race-rodz
hard to pull it without breaking..... yes-kinda. to better explain, most glass shops can successfully cut out a glued in window, but they will tell you right up front that it will probably break.

almost(if not ALL) new cars have glued in glass, usually the reason for removing it would be if it needed replaced.... and then it doesnt matter if its broke.

in your car with the full cage.... i dont see where the minor amount of extra stiffness from the glued in glass would "help", i would think that tieing the A-pillars to the front down bars(look at a pic of the a-pillar in a nascar) would do way more than glueing in the glass.
We pull glass all the time at the shop here and we rarely break one. Glass is kind of expensive and the insurance companies kind of frown if you break them all the time. :-)

Even if you have a role cage installed, the windshield (and, to a lesser degree, the rear glass) opening is still a large rectangle. Glueing in the glass has the same effect as installing a cross brace in the middle of the opening. If you were going to install a full NASCAR style cage, I would not wory about the windshield, but most of us want to have a "little" space to move around in the cabin and also have "some" room for a passenger. A NASCAR cage does not allow for either.

The windshield glass is a major structural component on all late model cars. Especially when you consider the size of late modle windshields.
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  #10  
Old 08-23-2006, 06:13 PM
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Steve1968LS2 Steve1968LS2 is offline
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Tomorrow we bolt in the LS2 and T56 and start the process of getting her running. Should take 4-5 days for all the systems then back to BOS to get the front sheetmetal re-hung.

Yesterday we finished up the LD 3-link and the brakes.. the results:

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See Bad Penny run the cones: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8GUPPIX-92U

1971 Chevelle Wagon - Roadster Shop Chassis ProCharged Shafiroff LS and lots of yada yada

1968 Camaro - Project Track Rat - 440 RHS LS
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