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Old 12-29-2014, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbuff View Post
As always, love the detailed explanation Ron! One simple question...

If the top link comes all the way up to the roll bar of the car, how will / do you isolate it from the outside of the car? It will pass through a firewall where the rear seat was, but given that you want internal access to adjust it, where would you seal off the rear firewall to isolate the interior of the car?

Probably a simple answer that I'm just not thinking of at the moment...

Hi Bryan,
Great question.
there are three different ways we have done what you're asking about. The original illustration I provided Ron Myers (that he posted) did not show how we do that. The illustration at the bottom shows the option Ron Myers choose.

In this case, Mike Tolle of Tolle Fab will build the upright tube that the top link adjuster clamps to (light blue bar in the illustration) ... with a bottom curve in it. This curved tube butts & welds to the back side of the 2"x3" crossmember. There is horizontal cross bar from one leg of the main hoop to the other. It is also curved to set it back. The upright tube attaches to this horizontal cross bar. You can see them both (light blue) in the illustration.

We do this to set the upright tube & the toplink adjuster back behind the main hoop. Then the green dotted line shows where the aluminum sheet metal work goes ... sealing the rear suspension off from the cockpit. The top link adjuster sticks through the sheet metal with a special bushing. It is just behind the passenger seat (remember ... the top link is offset) for easy access & tuning.

Make sense?



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Old 12-29-2014, 03:19 PM
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Way to bring it Ron!

Happy New Year
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Old 12-29-2014, 04:02 PM
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I'd like to see one modification to the design. A major adjustment available to the driver. He'll clearly be out of excuses when this one hits the road in his golden years.
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Old 12-29-2014, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by JSM View Post
First off, nice stuff Ron!

Second off, sorry in advance for self promotion below but couldn't resist (would almost give you a set if you want to cut off those proprietary units you have now)

Thirdly, I think this car may actually need/justify a set of my fabricated steel C6 Uprights


For what its worth in regards to above responses, I am machining a few sets next week of this type rear setup (C6 Flange end), and could easily machine a few more if anyone is interested....

Ok, back to Ron's build!
Good stuff Jay!

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I'd like to see one modification to the design. A major adjustment available to the driver. He'll clearly be out of excuses when this one hits the road in his golden years.
Dude, the longer the build the more time to reload on excuses. Just ask Weld.

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Old 12-29-2014, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Sutton View Post

Make sense?


.
Got it... Makes perfect sense.

One other question while I'm here... From a top-view, are the 2 lower arms parallel to each other, or do you angle them inward towards the front of the car? You have likely touched on this in a post somewhere. I'm not sure if anyone else makes them this way, but the Lateral Dynamics 3-link that a few cars here ran angled the LCA's inward as they went forward. I'm not sure if I've ever known what the reason for that was...
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Old 12-29-2014, 07:22 PM
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^ Bryan great question and one of the reasons I picked Ron's 3 link design as his are parallel. Early on I sent Ron web pics of the LD design. Ron pointed out that the angle of the LCAs would induce rear roll steer: good for rotating the rear on an autoX, not so good for high speed corners. Further, the higher speed the more roll steer induced. Now, I'm no expert but I'm thinking ideally that's not what I'd want. Better IMO to put in a rear suspension that keeps the rear planted as best as possible, tune the front for turn in and mid corner balance and let the rear compliment it. Obviously everything else plays into it (shocks, sways, balance and tuning), but that's what made sense to me.

I really like the LD fit and finish, but also think Ron's design is an improvement.
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Old 12-29-2014, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in SoCal View Post
^ Bryan great question and one of the reasons I picked Ron's 3 link design as his are parallel. Early on I sent Ron web pics of the LD design. Ron pointed out that the angle of the LCAs would induce rear roll steer: good for rotating the rear on an autoX, not so good for high speed corners. Further, the higher speed the more roll steer induced. Now, I'm no expert but I'm thinking ideally that's not what I'd want. Better IMO to put in a rear suspension that keeps the rear planted as best as possible, tune the front for turn in and mid corner balance and let the rear compliment it. Obviously everything else plays into it (shocks, sways, balance and tuning), but that's what made sense to me.

I really like the LD fit and finish, but also think Ron's design is an improvement.



You and Gaetano need to get together and coordinate your excuses why I passed you both on leaf springs and skinny tires. LOL
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Old 12-29-2014, 07:53 PM
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^ right on queue
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Old 12-29-2014, 08:03 PM
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You and Gaetano need to get together and coordinate your excuses why I passed you both on leaf springs and skinny tires. LOL
Your not the only car still on leaf springs Mario.

You shouldn't have any problem passing Ron. Just be sure to have the back bumper back on your car when I'm pushing you passed him.
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Old 12-29-2014, 08:43 PM
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Your not the only car still on leaf springs Mario.

You shouldn't have any problem passing Ron. Just be sure to have the back bumper back on your car when I'm pushing you passed him.
Nutttin' wrong with bump drafting but be careful what you wish for.

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