I had to add an idler to the mix to get it all to work. The power steering and alternator bracket is a purchased part and I decided to just modify it. It's already overly complicated and too many parts, but I added more pieces to it.
I added an angled piece to help support the pulley and used some b7 all thread and made a nut/ pulley locator.
That holds the pulley just fine.
Instead of keying the crank pulley I decided to convert it all over to pin drive. Each pulley has a set of pressed in 1/4" dowel pins and two slip fit holes on the other side. The mandrel has two pressed in pins and the nut on the end has two slip fit holes. It all stacks up together. This will not have any issues, it's solid.
All finished. Gotta find a belt that fits. If you are wondering how the belt is tensioned, the power steering pump has a jack screw underneath it to move it up to tension the belt.
Fuel system is done. I'm taking a little risk here for an experiment. I had a -10 feed and -8 return before with a big loud fuel pump. I've always built overkill in a fuel system, but that may have been going to far. My last mustang made 600 at the wheels with a single -6 line returnless system. Will a single -8 feed 950 flywheel hp? I'm going to find out. I'm also not dual feeding the fuel rails. Big hp efi cars make 2500 hp feeding 8 x 160lb/hr injectors on a single fuel rail on each side, I'm doing less than that with 6 in basically one rail. I have the y-block and lines to dual feed later if I find issues on the dyno.
The tank is a stock replacement GN tank, with twin 340lph racetronix pumps, -8 feed to a holley 175gph (660lph) 10 micron e85 safe filter, -8 to the passenger rail, a -8 crossover, then my weldon 2040 regulator to a -6 return running through a GM flex fuel sensor. I had intended to do stainless hardline, but without pulling the body off the frame, it just wasn't going to be practical. I would have had 6 feet of hardline max and added more joints to leak. The body wont' come up off the frame at all with the cage in the car.
From back to front.
Both lines run inside the frame all the way up front and out the stock hole in the crossmember.
It was so nice outside today I opened up the garage door and had too find something to do.
I used to have two 1/2 npt tapped holes with -10 fitting threaded into the front plate. That meant I had to RTV the plate to the belt drive. Last time I put it back together it leaked. The belt drive has -10 o-ring threads in it, but because of the front plate, I can't use a normal fitting. So, I made my own. I cut bigger holes in the front plate to pass the new fittings through.
That is the last custom machined part. If it's not too expensive, I'm going to gather up all the machined parts and have them hard anodized black.
Mike, I noticed your return going through the flex fuel sensor only. I did the same thing on my grand national but ran into problems. I have a 10 feed and 8 return. i noticed while on the dyno the fuel pressure flat lined on the 4psi gatespring then started to fall off at higher rpm's. This showed a restriction on the return side which at first i thought i had a regulator problem. turned out the flex fuel sensor was just bottle necking return fuel. we added a y into the inlet and outlet from the flex fuel sensor and that fixed the issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MeanMike
Fuel system is done. I'm taking a little risk here for an experiment. I had a -10 feed and -8 return before with a big loud fuel pump. I've always built overkill in a fuel system, but that may have been going to far. My last mustang made 600 at the wheels with a single -6 line returnless system. Will a single -8 feed 950 flywheel hp? I'm going to find out. I'm also not dual feeding the fuel rails. Big hp efi cars make 2500 hp feeding 8 x 160lb/hr injectors on a single fuel rail on each side, I'm doing less than that with 6 in basically one rail. I have the y-block and lines to dual feed later if I find issues on the dyno.
The tank is a stock replacement GN tank, with twin 340lph racetronix pumps, -8 feed to a holley 175gph (660lph) 10 micron e85 safe filter, -8 to the passenger rail, a -8 crossover, then my weldon 2040 regulator to a -6 return running through a GM flex fuel sensor. I had intended to do stainless hardline, but without pulling the body off the frame, it just wasn't going to be practical. I would have had 6 feet of hardline max and added more joints to leak. The body wont' come up off the frame at all with the cage in the car.
From back to front.
Both lines run inside the frame all the way up front and out the stock hole in the crossmember.
Mike, I noticed your return going through the flex fuel sensor only. I did the same thing on my grand national but ran into problems. I have a 10 feed and 8 return. i noticed while on the dyno the fuel pressure flat lined on the 4psi gatespring then started to fall off at higher rpm's. This showed a restriction on the return side which at first i thought i had a regulator problem. turned out the flex fuel sensor was just bottle necking return fuel. we added a y into the inlet and outlet from the flex fuel sensor and that fixed the issue.
It should be returning 100% of the fuel when the engine isn't running and I'm having no problems like that. Were you running this same sensor or the older one that has the inlet and out let parallel to each other? I plan to keep my eye on it regardless.
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
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