Another American auto wire ls swap question.

[Che70velle]

Vince, this is a great write up.

[kevin_l]

Originally Posted by Che70velle

Vince, this is a great write up.

Yes! I never imagined such a great answer and willingness to help. Couldn't have asked for more, Vince you are a true asset to keep this site and hobby friendly and helpful. Thanks again for your write up. It will certainly get me headed in the right direction and I will try and take photos to go with your description as to help the next guy too.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Originally Posted by kevin_l

Yes! I never imagined such a great answer and willingness to help. Couldn't have asked for more, Vince you are a true asset to keep this site and hobby friendly and helpful. Thanks again for your write up. It will certainly get me headed in the right direction and I will try and take photos to go with your description as to help the next guy too.

thanks guys, Not a problem. I know how frustrating and intimidating it can be so I like to help where I can.


Checks in the mail right?


Oh, and on the AAW harness. The purple start wire has to go through a neutral safety switch or jumper-ed. Car will not crank otherwise.

[kevin_l]

Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab

thanks guys, Not a problem. I know how frustrating and intimidating it can be so I like to help where I can.


Checks in the mail right?


Oh, and on the AAW harness. The purple start wire has to go through a neutral safety switch or jumper-ed. Car will not crank otherwise.

Sure check is in the mail, but it's for too much so when you get it wire me the difference, ok??

I got a clutch switch, should that work to run the purple wire through so the motor will only crank with the clutch pedal pushed in?

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Originally Posted by kevin_l

Sure check is in the mail, but it's for too much so when you get it wire me the difference, ok??

I got a clutch switch, should that work to run the purple wire through so the motor will only crank with the clutch pedal pushed in?

perfect!

I like to hide a high amp switch in there somewhere for anti theft.

[kevin_l]

OK, started pulling out some wire tonight. I removed the wires you said including the pink coil wire but noticed on the schematic the yellow starter solenoid wire jumpers off the pink wire that is now removed.

Is this yellow starter solenoid wire needed anymore? And what about the VSS ground, VSS Signal and tan brake warning switch?

Then, Can I remove these:

ignition coil wires 14g pink ( goes to ignition and fuel block on dash side)
tachometer wire 16g white wire
oil wire 18g blue wire
coolant temp 18g green wire

from the dash side of the bulk head?

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Originally Posted by kevin_l

OK, started pulling out some wire tonight. I removed the wires you said including the pink coil wire but noticed on the schematic the yellow starter solenoid wire jumpers off the pink wire that is now removed.

Is this yellow starter solenoid wire needed anymore? And what about the VSS ground, VSS Signal and tan brake warning switch?

Then, Can I remove these:

ignition coil wires 14g pink ( goes to ignition and fuel block on dash side)
tachometer wire 16g white wire
oil wire 18g blue wire
coolant temp 18g green wire

from the dash side of the bulk head?

The Yellow wire was the resistor bypass wire that provided the igniton coil 12 volts during crank. Not needed with the LS swap.

The VSS wiring (2- purple and yellow twisted) hooks to your T-56 speed sensor directly to the VHX box. SPD- and SPD SND
Page 8 instructions http://www.dakotadigital.com/pdf/vhx.pdf


Note: For 2-wire speed sensors such as a cable driven pulse generator, the polarity of the wires
does not matter. Connect one wire to the SPD – (Ground) and the other to the SPD SND
terminal. The speed sensor ground wire should be brought back to the control box to ensure a
proper signal is received. Twisting the ground and signal wires around each other provides an
additional level of interference protection. The speed signal wire should not be routed alongside
tach, ignition, or other high current or high voltage wires.

Tan brake warning, you can hook that to your prop valve or distribution box. Have no idea what you are running.


ignition coil wires 14g pink ( goes to ignition and fuel block on dash side) Yes
tachometer wire 16g white wire Yes, tach signal comes off of the PSI harness to VHX now.
oil wire 18g blue wire Extend and use for your AC compressor feed via trinary
coolant temp 18g green wire Extend and use for your heater control valve.

from the dash side of the bulk head? You can if you like. Use them for interior circuits.

[kevin_l]

My psi harness has it's own VSS but you're saying I need the one in the AAW harness too? Even if I plan on running the dakota digital obd II interface?