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04-25-2015, 07:26 AM
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Location: Harrison, AR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nativefx
Hey David, you don't happen to have any pictures looking up to see the clearance you have between the rear tire sidewall and the outer fender and inner fender do you? We pulled my stock rear end and I'm trying to get my WMS to WMS measurement to get a shortened rear end. I have plenty of room inside, but I'm trying to figure out how far outward I can position the wheels without rubbing. I don't like it when they are set too far in, especially on a 69 as the fender flares outward and it makes it look like the tire is already set back inside the fender.
thanks, Jake
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Jake,
I sure don't. I've never had it high enough to get pictures of the underside. You might check with Payton King or one of the other guys. I use to have some good pictures of Dead Cat but I've must have lost them or deleted them. I can say that 18X12s with a 6" bs and a rear with a 55.5" wms to wms worked for me. My rear is actually 54" wms to wms but I am using 3/4" spacers on both sides to keep the spindle under the center caps on the wheels. Me rear is a floater. The only alternative for me would've been to add that 3/4" to each wheel center thickness when they were made.
David
__________________
468 BBC, TH400, Moser 9" floater, True Forged Competitions 18x9.5 18x12, Kore 3 C6 ZO6 calipers 14" & 13" rotors, Ride Tech True Turn, Ride Tech Air TQ's, Torque Arm with Watts link, Moser CT Full Floater 9" with locker.
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04-25-2015, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stovebolter
Jake,
I sure don't. I've never had it high enough to get pictures of the underside. You might check with Payton King or one of the other guys. I use to have some good pictures of Dead Cat but I've must have lost them or deleted them. I can say that 18X12s with a 6" bs and a rear with a 55.5" wms to wms worked for me. My rear is actually 54" wms to wms but I am using 3/4" spacers on both sides to keep the spindle under the center caps on the wheels. Me rear is a floater. The only alternative for me would've been to add that 3/4" to each wheel center thickness when they were made.
David
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Hi David, I was just looking for something similar to this.
[IMG]  [/IMG]
I'm just trying to figure out how close to the outside fender I can get without rubbing not only during driving but also when setting the AirRide completely down as I noticed the inner rear fender actually bulges in ward a little before going up and curving over.
Based on your 55.5" WMS to WMS (including spacers) and your 12" wheel widths and 6" BS, it should measure outside to outside of the tires very much the same as my rough measurements I got last night in my first attempt to measure my WMS to WMS. I came up with roughly 54.5" but my wheels are 11.5" wide and have a 5" BS. The spacing between the outside fender lip is the pic I attached above.
I'm measuring out to get a shortened rear end built and I'm also planning on going with a floater. I have more than enough room on the inside fender to inner wheel as its probably closer to 1 1/2" there. I'm just trying to set them as far out to the outside as possible so they don't look set in to the wheel well too far.
Last edited by Nativefx; 04-25-2015 at 08:20 PM.
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04-26-2015, 05:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nativefx
Hi David, I was just looking for something similar to this.
[IMG]  [/IMG]
I'm just trying to figure out how close to the outside fender I can get without rubbing not only during driving but also when setting the AirRide completely down as I noticed the inner rear fender actually bulges in ward a little before going up and curving over.
Based on your 55.5" WMS to WMS (including spacers) and your 12" wheel widths and 6" BS, it should measure outside to outside of the tires very much the same as my rough measurements I got last night in my first attempt to measure my WMS to WMS. I came up with roughly 54.5" but my wheels are 11.5" wide and have a 5" BS. The spacing between the outside fender lip is the pic I attached above.
I'm measuring out to get a shortened rear end built and I'm also planning on going with a floater. I have more than enough room on the inside fender to inner wheel as its probably closer to 1 1/2" there. I'm just trying to set them as far out to the outside as possible so they don't look set in to the wheel well too far.
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Looks like you did a better job rolling your lip in than the previous owner did on mine. I'll correct that later, no rubbing so far. I took a picture early this a.m. for you. With the rolled lip the distance is 1" to the face of tire
__________________
468 BBC, TH400, Moser 9" floater, True Forged Competitions 18x9.5 18x12, Kore 3 C6 ZO6 calipers 14" & 13" rotors, Ride Tech True Turn, Ride Tech Air TQ's, Torque Arm with Watts link, Moser CT Full Floater 9" with locker.
Last edited by Stovebolter; 04-26-2015 at 06:05 AM.
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04-26-2015, 06:00 AM
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And this one.....
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468 BBC, TH400, Moser 9" floater, True Forged Competitions 18x9.5 18x12, Kore 3 C6 ZO6 calipers 14" & 13" rotors, Ride Tech True Turn, Ride Tech Air TQ's, Torque Arm with Watts link, Moser CT Full Floater 9" with locker.
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03-26-2016, 02:12 PM
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I apologize for not posting results in so long but my father passed from a tough bout with cancer in October and that along with another family crisis I just haven't felt like browsing forums.
At this time I can report that I've finished up my TA suspension (although I've decided I do need to put it on a diet), installed a new floor pan, a new fuel system end to end for the LS, installed the LS and T56 with the Holley system (mounts, long tube headers, cross member that I altered to accommodate the front mount of the TA, and HP EFI).
I'm now in the process of setting up the DSE dash insert with custom Speed Hut gauges, adding the Vintage air Gen IV, finally installing the Ridetech AirRide compressor system (placing a 3 gal tank in the pockets at rear of quarters on both sides, been using simple valves to add air up to this point). I'll add pictures of this process when I can collect them from my shop camera.
Made my first trip to mom's on Christmas and can say I really like the LS platform! Its been a joy to drive as long as I stay away from parking lots. I've lost a lot of turning radius with the Ridetech Tru Turn system. Slowly trying to sort through that issue. At this time, I imagine my only option is to move the Muscle Bar rearward on the frame to allow more turn radius and maybe notch the frame as needed at the rear. As others have noticed, my front wheels are well behind the center line of the wheel opening, which is causing the rear of the front tires to rub on the inner fender well during turning. I fear that Ridetech may have sent me the wrong control arms.
At this time my specs are as follows:
Ridetech Tru Turn system complete with TQ Airsprings and Muscle Bars
18X9.5 True Forged Competitions with 5.75" bs
275/35/18's
+5 Caster -1.5 Camber 1/16" toe in
Kore 3 C6 ZO6 hubs/rotors
Stock Height Frame bushings
Stock Subframe
__________________
468 BBC, TH400, Moser 9" floater, True Forged Competitions 18x9.5 18x12, Kore 3 C6 ZO6 calipers 14" & 13" rotors, Ride Tech True Turn, Ride Tech Air TQ's, Torque Arm with Watts link, Moser CT Full Floater 9" with locker.
Last edited by Stovebolter; 03-26-2016 at 02:27 PM.
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03-26-2016, 02:26 PM
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A few more updates
__________________
468 BBC, TH400, Moser 9" floater, True Forged Competitions 18x9.5 18x12, Kore 3 C6 ZO6 calipers 14" & 13" rotors, Ride Tech True Turn, Ride Tech Air TQ's, Torque Arm with Watts link, Moser CT Full Floater 9" with locker.
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03-26-2016, 02:41 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Harrison, AR
Posts: 301
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__________________
468 BBC, TH400, Moser 9" floater, True Forged Competitions 18x9.5 18x12, Kore 3 C6 ZO6 calipers 14" & 13" rotors, Ride Tech True Turn, Ride Tech Air TQ's, Torque Arm with Watts link, Moser CT Full Floater 9" with locker.
Last edited by Stovebolter; 03-26-2016 at 02:46 PM.
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