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Old 06-15-2015, 09:29 PM
mfain mfain is offline
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Originally Posted by FLYNAVY53 View Post
very interested in seeing how the stack injection on the LS works out for you...what are you running for a computer?
The computer is a FAST EZ EFI. it all came in the package from Inglese. By the way, Greg (Weld), when setting up the airflow is there a difference between the old mechanical set-up and EFI on a computer?

Pappy
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Old 06-15-2015, 11:31 PM
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GregWeld GregWeld is offline
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Originally Posted by mfain View Post
The computer is a FAST EZ EFI. it all came in the package from Inglese. By the way, Greg (Weld), when setting up the airflow is there a difference between the old mechanical set-up and EFI on a computer?

Pappy


Well --- the key is to have all the air valves sync'd up - using the manometer. But of course - you have to get the motor running.... via the handheld programmer of the EZ EFI.... which is pretty dang obvious when doing the set up windows... You just answer the questions - Engine cubes - injector size - Fuel pressure etc... it walks you thru the steps. Then --- when you fire up for the first time -- and the engine comes up to temp (over 140*) the computer will start to alter the fuel tables. Once you have a decent idle --- you'll want to go and measure each air valves flow with the manometer and adjust accordingly.

The thing that people do with an eight stack is to look at all the adjustment "screws" and start to fiddle with them setting idle RPMS or whatever.... and not realize that the entire system (all 8) are then being messed with!

If you don't disconnect the cross linkage - whatever you adjust on one side is messing with the other side.

The beauty of the Inglese set up is that each butterfly in each air valve is easy to adjust on the butterfly linkage (very small set screw and collar on the shaft) - if the pair is out of sync (two valves per pair).

You've got to get all of them flowing within 1 of each other.... then when you hook up the cross linkage -- double check them all and if anything - it's usually one side is now higher or lower than the other side. This can then be adjusted by turning the cross link shaft whichever way it needs to go....

Now you're ready to go for a drive -- and the key there is to try to hold a "load" /"RPM" and let the computer settle on the A:F at that spot - then increase the load/rpm to another place and let it settle in there -- and so on. It takes the computer a minute to settle in using the O2 sensor. Once you get some 'gross' adjustments in - it just gets smoother and smoother... as you drive. It's a pretty slick little setup. But you have to have the MECHANICAL part sorted out - and then the computer can do it's thing.
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Old 06-16-2015, 10:12 AM
mfain mfain is offline
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Thanks for the info Greg. The Inglese kit did come with a manometer. We may give you a call when Robert gets it fired up -- still got a little wiring and stuff to do.

Pappy
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Old 06-16-2015, 11:30 AM
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GregWeld GregWeld is offline
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Originally Posted by mfain View Post
Thanks for the info Greg. The Inglese kit did come with a manometer. We may give you a call when Robert gets it fired up -- still got a little wiring and stuff to do.

Pappy


Pappy ---


Four 2 Five...... 5 Three 1..... One two 9 9

I'd be happy to help. These systems are awesome - look bad ass - and run really well when they're right. One set and forget.
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