Trunk mounted battery...where to run alternator output?

[cpd004]

Originally Posted by Woodrow

I did mine a little different. As I used the solenoid in the trunk so the long large line from the battery isn't live all the time, then from the alternator I went to this terminal block from Jegs.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...10521/10002/-1

Then I connected one post to the alternator, then all other accessories, plus the charge line back to the battery in the trunk (8 gauge, I think) on the other post. Then for safety I connected the 2 posts with a fused link wire in the event something overloads. All tucks up into the block and seems to work well.

Woodrow.

Are you saying you used a Ford type solenoid?

[randy]

rear battery
ran line up the passenger side of the car including the ground
2 bulkhead connectors on the floor board + and -
Other side of the bulkhead connector connects to the starter
Wire hidden from the starter to the alternator.

DSE kit is what i used

[cpd004]

From what I've read, there are many variations to what people have done. This is what I am going for so far:

An XS D1200 battery mounted in a simple mount and hold down in the trunk.

2 AWG positive from the trunk to the lug on the starter. Not fused and not sure if it is ok to be live all the time?

4 AWG Fused some way to the same lug from alternator to starter

a 2nd 4 AWG to a distribution block like you guys have posted above from the alternator for the ECM and fuse panel of the car.

2AWG negative from battery to body in trunk along with multiple Negative grounding cables where needed.

A Negative distribution block some where in the engine bay from the frame (or engine...not sure if a block is even needed).

The car has no power windows, locks, defrost, etc. I only have a radio, the ECM/TCM, electric fans and the lighting.

Any opinions/suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[alongfortheride]

Madd electrical has a very nice write up on mounting the battery in the trunk. He advises not to run your starter cable live at all times. I am looking for the link. When I find it I will post.

[cpd004]

Originally Posted by alongfortheride

Madd electrical has a very nice write up on mounting the battery in the trunk. He advises not to run your starter cable live at all times. I am looking for the link. When I find it I will post.

I just found the link. Thanks!

[randy]

now your starting to make me think it would be a good idea to run a inline fuse from the battery to my bulkhead

[Woodrow]

Originally Posted by cpd004

Are you saying you used a Ford type solenoid?

Yes, using the Ford solenoid.

[cpd004]

Mad Electrical has 2 kits that others have recommended: TM2 and ST1.

On a side note...I was looking at my G8 which has a trunk mounted battery and it appears the + side is live all the time. It appears to go from the battery terminal along the drivers side of the car to a positive distribution block and then on down to the starter. It also appears to be at most a 2 gauge wire.

[WSSix]

I designed my own system. It's similar to the Mad Electric one. I have a 2 AWG cable going from the battery to a Ford style starter solenoid that's mounted behind the battery. Then the battery cable goes all the way to the front. It's only live during cranking. The ground goes straight to the frame rail after coming off the battery.

The alternator return is 4 or 6 AWG and goes all the way back to the battery through a 100 or 150 AMP circuit breaker that's also mounted behind the battery. Yes, the alternator cable is live the whole time. However, you can't easily put a circuit breaker/fuse on the starter cable so protecting the alternator cable is easier and smarter IMO. Something goes wrong and the system is disconnected and the car is protected.

I have a junction post on the firewall for power take off to the rest of the car. It's below the AC box between the frame rail and firewall essentially. It's well protected and a pain to get to if needed. I also have a smaller circuit breaker right off the post for the rest of the car. It's much smaller than the alternator one and protects the wires between the junction point and fuse panel in the interior. The electrical fans have their own circuit breaker and relays mounted to the inner fender on the driver's side. Off hand, I believe that's the only power circuit not going to the inside.

My attitude towards more circuitry is to not play games with protection. You have to protect the wires to what their capable of handling. I could have eliminated the circuit breaker off the junction post on the firewall and allowed the circuit breaker in the trunk for the alternator to handle it. However, it's a big breaker. The wires off that junction post could melt before they trip the circuit breaker in the trunk. An inexpensive and small circuit breaker is money well spent IMO.

[cpd004]

So the crank wire would now go to the Ford solenoid in the trunk and would not need to go to the starter any more with this set up.

I've read people using 4 and 8 gauge from the alternator back to the battery.

I like the idea of breakers over fuses, although a handful of fuses wouldn't be much to carry around either way.

One install I saw uses Marinco breakers. They are normally used in marine applications but look better than some of the automotive ones I've seen. They are a few dollars more though.

What brand of breakers did you go with?