Trunk mounted battery...where to run alternator output?

[cpd004]

So the crank wire would now go to the Ford solenoid in the trunk and would not need to go to the starter any more with this set up.

I've read people using 4 and 8 gauge from the alternator back to the battery.

I like the idea of breakers over fuses, although a handful of fuses wouldn't be much to carry around either way.

One install I saw uses Marinco breakers. They are normally used in marine applications but look better than some of the automotive ones I've seen. They are a few dollars more though.

What brand of breakers did you go with?

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Originally Posted by cpd004

So the crank wire would now go to the Ford solenoid in the trunk and would not need to go to the starter any more with this set up.

I've read people using 4 and 8 gauge from the alternator back to the battery.

I like the idea of breakers over fuses, although a handful of fuses wouldn't be much to carry around either way.

One install I saw uses Marinco breakers. They are normally used in marine applications but look better than some of the automotive ones I've seen. They are a few dollars more though.

What brand of breakers did you go with?

No need to add the Ford solenoid on an LS starter. You are only adding weight and easing the job for thieves. People started adding Ford solenoids to combat starter heat soak. Which is non existent in modern LS starters.

On trunk mounted battery systems, I like to run a bulk head stud on the firewall near the starter. Then just run a 10" long 2 ga to the starter. 8 ga to the alternator from the firewall bulk head or the radiator support power feed. I run a radiator support bulk head to feed the fan and headlamp relays.

[cpd004]

Live all the time? This is the way OEM's do so I don't see why it should be a problem here. Do you have a pic of the bulk heads you use?

[Vega$69]

Originally Posted by cpd004

Live all the time? This is the way OEM's do so I don't see why it should be a problem here. Do you have a pic of the bulk heads you use?

The OEMs do it because they are designed from the get go to do it.

I run the ford solenoid for the started wires and a fusible link on the ALT wire

[MtotheIKEo]

I used to use the circuit breakers when I designed electrical systems for utility trucks and cranes. They work awesome, are compact, and you can easily disconnect your electrical at the battery if you are working on it without any tools.
http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB185.../dp/B001PT7XBE

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Originally Posted by cpd004

Live all the time? This is the way OEM's do so I don't see why it should be a problem here. Do you have a pic of the bulk heads you use?

Originally Posted by MtotheIKEo

I used to use the circuit breakers when I designed electrical systems for utility trucks and cranes. They work awesome, are compact, and you can easily disconnect your electrical at the battery if you are working on it without any tools.
http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB185.../dp/B001PT7XBE

those work fantastic...There was a thermal type that I was researching but can't seem to find right now.

cpd004, firewall pass through... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1431-red

[cpd004]

I appreciate all the help!

I've read a few different articles on breaker sizing (and my head is spinning)...it appears as though I would need a 150 amp breaker near the battery on it's way up to the starter. Does this sound correct?

Also, I'm thinking of going with a maxi fuse holder for the charge wire from the alternator. I think 8 gauge as suggested above will work just fine, but can't seem to find an appropriate fuse rating. The reason I'd like to go with a maxi fuse is that I can then use a maxi fuse block like what I have now and just a bigger one for the charge wire. My current one has 2 fuses...one that supplies power to the cars fuse panel and the other is for the electric fans.

Vince, I like what you did with the bulkhead down low and near the starter. It makes things nice and clean.