Need advise for a welder - Lateral-g Forums

**MODO Innovations** · #1 11-06-2015, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld

If you can afford the $$ and the floor space.... Get a better machine than you think you want/need. You'll only buy one and you'll have it for years... And if you're any good at welding - there's no end to what you can fix or want to make.

I have to agree with Greg on the statement above.

warriorridge · #2 11-07-2015, 05:57 AM

I have a Hobart 210mvp. It will run on either 110 or 220 volts. It is rated for 3/8 single pass, but that doesn't that doesn't mean you can't ever weld anything thicker. You just have to make your joint right and maybe use more than one pass. Honestly, for automotive work you will rarely have anything thicker than 1/4, so something like the Hobart 210 or miller 211 will be more than adequate for automotive work, with enough extra capacity to do some occasional 3/8 or 1/2. The hobart 210 and miller 211 can run on either 110 volt (although not at full capacity) or 220 volt, so that may be an option for you. The Hobart and miller use the same drive system and torch, but use different electronics, Hobart has stepped voltage control, and the miller has variable voltage control.
As for flux core wire/no gas vs solid wire/gas, the advantage for flux core wire is that it is more tolorant for dirty or rusty metal,

warriorridge · #3 11-07-2015, 06:07 AM

I have a Hobart 210mvp. It will run on either 110 or 220 volts. It is rated for 3/8 single pass, but that doesn't that doesn't mean you can't ever weld anything thicker. You just have to make your joint right and maybe use more than one pass. Honestly, for automotive work you will rarely have anything thicker than 1/4, so something like the Hobart 210 or miller 211 will be more than adequate for automotive work, with enough extra capacity to do some occasional 3/8 or 1/2. The hobart 210 and miller 211 can run on either 110 volt (although not at full capacity) or 220 volt, so that may be an option for you. The Hobart and miller use the same drive system and torch, but use different electronics, Hobart has stepped voltage control, and the miller has variable voltage control.
As for flux core wire/no gas vs solid wire/gas, the advantage for flux core wire is that it is more tolorant of dirty or rusty metal, and you don't have to carry a gas cylinder. The disadvantage is that it doesn't weld as nicely, more spatter than with gas, and the weld has a slag coating that will need to be removed. Also flux core won't work for thin sheet metal.
Solid wire with gas works much nicer, for automotive work, I would recommend using gas. Hope this helps...

rustomatic · #4 11-10-2015, 08:02 PM

To pile on to a pile of the same suggestion, I treated myself to a Miller 211 earlier this year (because I figured the latest version of my forever changing car deserved better), along with a big gas bottle, and it's really convinced people that I have some kind of skill (they are wrong). It's a great machine, and is a million times better than my old Eastwood 135 (observe internal hardware/drive mechanism), which still has a purpose or two--it has been dedicated to crappy flux-core welds forever . . .

TheJDMan · #5 11-11-2015, 05:40 PM

I have been welding for over 40 years in one form or another and I have always had the best luck with Lincoln welders. I have had several stick welders but my first MIG was a Lincoln 140 110vac and I gave that to my brother when I upgraded to my current Lincoln 256. For automotive welding and occasional heavy welding I would recommend the Lincoln Power MIG 210 which is also a dual 110/220 input. Like some have said, don't waste your time on flux core, learn to use the proper shielding gas. The bottom line is that both Miller and Lincoln are top of the line welders, while brands such as Hobart and other no name welders are lower cost units.

**GregWeld** · #6 11-22-2015, 08:32 PM

You're asking about MIG welders and my recommendation never waivers about getting the very best one you can.... because of future use - and because this is a tool you'll have for a very long time. I was reminded of this today when at "the shed" and I decided I hadn't TIG welded for a couple weeks --- and if I was going to do some - I might as well butt weld some box cutter blades together for practice. Why do I mention this? Because I bought a TIG machine - that at the time had many more bells and whistles than I might use... I bought a Miller 200 DX. Today - welding the edges of razor blades together - I needed everything that machine could muster up! Pulse - with front and background splitting...and a super steady arc... And while it took me several tries experimenting with the settings - the machine was capable of delivering what I needed and I was successful in welding them with no filler... and a bead that measured .0724 (about two hairs worth).

Just sayin' --- today was proof of why I make the "get the best you can" because you never know what you're going to do going forward.

Che70velle · #7 11-23-2015, 07:42 PM

Pictures Greg, or it never happened...

**GregWeld** · #8 11-24-2015, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Che70velle

Pictures Greg, or it never happened...

FINE!! LOL

set up was a little tricky!! Took me about 4 pairs of blades to get the machine set....

A TEST BEAD - no filler..... just to get the machine set to run a puddle.....

Found I had to have a super sharp tungsten! In order to focus the arc....

DONE!!

Now ---- my old eyes really struggled with finding and keeping the joint.... so there's a little wandering.

JUST FYI --- That "bead" --- no filler --- is .0724" wide.... that's about 2 hairs width!! No kidding!! I measured it.