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  #1  
Old 01-01-2016, 06:13 PM
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I'd have to go back and look at your ignition setup, but I'm in the process of familiarizing myself with the MSD 6AL box I'll be installing (eventually) on my car and it mentions engine run on, similar to your situation when using the MSD box with a GM HEI distributor. Basically describes that there is some sort of signal that must be bypassed, otherwise the MSD box continues providing spark. Kinda leading me to just do my engine break in without the 6AL and wire it in afterwards.

Never know, but it might be a good place to start your gremlin hunt.
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Old 01-04-2016, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by waynieZ View Post
Good to hear it's running good now. With the other posts you'll have some where to start looking for your run on problem.
thanks, wayne! it felt so good to see and hear that thing running smooth... for the first time in over 10 years!

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Originally Posted by PBarkley View Post
I'd have to go back and look at your ignition setup, but I'm in the process of familiarizing myself with the MSD 6AL box I'll be installing (eventually) on my car and it mentions engine run on, similar to your situation when using the MSD box with a GM HEI distributor. Basically describes that there is some sort of signal that must be bypassed, otherwise the MSD box continues providing spark. Kinda leading me to just do my engine break in without the 6AL and wire it in afterwards.

Never know, but it might be a good place to start your gremlin hunt.
thanks, peter! i've installed msd's pro billet distributor for v8 pontiac application.

the last time i started the engine there was a real high pitched squealing sound for about 5 seconds then it stopped and everything sounded fine.
after i killed the iginition i crawled under the car and saw that the pinion gear had been stuck in the engaged position after the engine started and the ring gear completely shredded it- spun it right off the starter motor output shaft.

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i pulled the starter off, boxed it up, and sent it back to robbmc.
those guys are great... they said it's a pretty common problem and that they would be happy to fix it- no problem.
they also said it usually results from a problem with the wiring.
since then i've been doing a little snooping around in the dash wiring and i happened to find a ground wire that i failed to tie into the master ground kit at the firewall.
my hunch is that it provides ground to the ignition switch.
i wonder if this array of problems could have been caused by an improperly grounded ignition switch?
anyway, i'm going back through the wiring starting at the switch and having another close look at the wiring diagrams as well.
my hope is to have the wiring thoroughly inspected and to get any issues resolved by the time the starter gets back to me.

later today i'm meeting with straatsma to talk about the paint job.
he's going to look at the car and hopefully offer some advice regarding fitment/gaps/etc.

always moving forward!
thanks for your interest in my project, and thanks for having a look at this thread!
danny

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Old 01-04-2016, 08:44 PM
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Sounds like you're onto something! Good luck with the hunt!
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Old 02-22-2016, 07:18 PM
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well, it seems like it's about time for another update as quite a bit has happened since my last post here.

robbmc replaced the pinion gear and returned the starter motor to me and didn't even charge me a penny.
i can't say enough good things about those guys: great people, great products, and great service!
the run-on issue was in fact being caused by a feedback loop making it's way from the alternator back to the ignition circuit thru the exciter wire.
the guys at msd steered me toward a solution by informing me that the issue is covered in the instruction manual they provided with their ignition system... r.t.f.m. right?
i spliced a diode into the alternator exciter wire (per the msd instructions) and the problem is solved.
the ignition now starts and stops perfectly with no other apparent issues at this time.
unfortunately, while in the process of troubleshooting that problem the 'small' coolant leak i first saw after initial start-up turned into a 'large' coolant leak.
ultimately i had to remove the timing cover and spiff up the gaskets.

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of course i was less than thrilled with this situation especially since i had just finished putting the front clip together, but in the end the whole operation only took me about half a day of shop time.

in other news i've been learning a lot about what it's going to take to get the various moldings and trim pieces test fit and installed properly.
all the rusty metal in the front and rear glass channels was removed and replaced and none of the original trim studs remain so i ordered a bag of them from eastwood and i'll borrow a stud welder from straatsma to install them.
i also need to drill new holes for the rocker trim clips and wheel well molding screws before the car goes to paint.

also, i've still been doing a lot of detailing and painting of small parts, running wire for the front and rear lights, preparing the rear bumper for installation, troubleshooting various minor electrical bugs, and continuing to install insulation and vibration dampening.

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thanks for checking in on my progress.
apologies for not posting more often. regardless, i am always moving forward... even if sometimes it's a case of 'one step forward then two steps back!'
i'm trying my best to stay on top of this project and to keep mindful of the fact that for me it's more about the journey than anything else.
i can see that every little step along the way is a special part of this experience (even if it is a step backward) and i've been trying to train myself to learn to appreciate it all.
and to be straight-up there's even a little part of me that doesn't want this project to ever end. it's been such a big part of my life recently and i frankly don't really want it to be over. i sometimes find myself just spaced out standing in front of the car marveling at what it has become...
haha, sorry to wax sentimental here guys. it's just all pretty huge for a guy like me. i've never really done anything like this and i never thought i could ever pull this off, especially after everyone i talked to about it told me not to try and do it!

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thanks again for having a look at my project and thanks to lateral-g for hosting this thread.
i am very fortunate to be able to share this project with this community!
cheers guys!!!
danny

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Old 02-22-2016, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PBarkley View Post
Sounds like you're onto something! Good luck with the hunt!
Quote:
Originally Posted by PBarkley View Post
I'd have to go back and look at your ignition setup, but I'm in the process of familiarizing myself with the MSD 6AL box I'll be installing (eventually) on my car and it mentions engine run on, similar to your situation when using the MSD box with a GM HEI distributor. Basically describes that there is some sort of signal that must be bypassed, otherwise the MSD box continues providing spark. Kinda leading me to just do my engine break in without the 6AL and wire it in afterwards.

Never know, but it might be a good place to start your gremlin hunt.

thank you very much for your insights as well!
you were right on.
lesson learned: start by reading the manual!
cheers,
danny
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Old 02-22-2016, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fbrown540 View Post
The key not turning the engine off actually happening fairly frequently back in the day when these cars were fairly new. The cause is generally a feedback loop that keeps powering the ignition. You can test for this by simply unplugging the wire to the alternator. If the engine stops with the key off and by unplugging the alternator wire, you have a feedback loop.

If you have a feedback loop, You could leave the alternator unplugged while you trouble shoot the high idle rpm.

Some causes are:

- lack of a resistor in the GEN light line.
- not properly converting the wiring when swapping from an external to internal regulator. This seemed to happen to many of my friends back in the early 70's.
- improper conversion from a points type distributor to a electronic one. Again this happened to many of my friends.

It been so long that I don't remember what was done to fix the problem, but the fix was very minor in all cases.

I don't know if this applies to your engine, but many GM engines of the 60's had a thin metal plate between the carb gasket and the manifold. Leave the metal plate out and the engine won't idle. I had seen many of my friends leave the metal plate out and couldn't get their engine to run very well.

Maybe someone with more recent experience will chime in.
yes indeed- it was a feedback loop!
you were right!!
thank you very much for your comments!!!
danny
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  #7  
Old 03-06-2016, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1968 GTO Resto-Mod View Post

thank you very much for your insights as well!
you were right on.
lesson learned: start by reading the manual!
cheers,
danny
Haha I would've hit the same issue...luckily my best friend is an engineer and always reads the data before he reaches for the first tool, haha.
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Old 04-20-2016, 08:51 PM
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i feel like i've taken the dry fit about as far as i can.
i've obsessed over this long enough... i spent three days on the endura bumper alone and i still don't like where it's at!
decided not to re-install mouldings for rocker panel and wheel openings.
test fit of all other mouldings looks alright (i couldn't weld the trim rivets so i had to use the screw-in style).
all the glass is on hand including a new windshield and replacement glass for the passenger side door.
the original rear window glass is in surprisingly good shape so i'm going to clean it up and re-install it.
registered with dmv and insured the car through hagerty.
don't have any idea how much this car is worth but i set up a conservative policy.
drove the car for the first time last night.
but when i say 'drove' i mean that all i know is the car will move forward and backward under it's own power haha!
clutch feels good and the muncie shifts smooth at idle.
nice clear weather and dry roads today so delivered to straatsma's shop for paint.
he seemed happy with what he saw.
when i get it back i'll be ready to install headlights/blinkers, glass/weatherstripping, and seatbelts.


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thanks for checking in!



danny
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