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  #1  
Old 04-30-2017, 05:35 AM
dhutton dhutton is offline
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Originally Posted by vstol View Post
I was thinking of plugging the MC one at a time and heard a lot about the phoenix V-12 bleeder. Hate to spend $200 or the price of the MC. Maybe chuck Wilwood and go elsewhere.
Plugging one side at a time is a good idea. It doesn't sound like the master is the issue at this point.

Are you running stainless brake lines? They can be a b*tch to seal. Maybe try some conical seals.

Don
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Old 04-30-2017, 05:48 AM
vstol vstol is offline
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Not SS just steel. I do have a wildwood Proportional valve inline to the rear should that be adjusted one way or the other? I am also going to shorten the rod today maybe its not coming back far enough?? also no leaks at all. Thanks
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Old 04-30-2017, 07:04 AM
dhutton dhutton is offline
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Originally Posted by vstol View Post
Not SS just steel. I do have a wildwood Proportional valve inline to the rear should that be adjusted one way or the other? I am also going to shorten the rod today maybe its not coming back far enough?? also no leaks at all. Thanks
Prop valve should be adjusted for max rear brake. The direction you turn it is counterintuitive so look at the knob carefully. AMHIK...

Don
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Old 04-30-2017, 12:14 PM
vstol vstol is offline
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ok after 1 1/2 hrs of bleeding the brakes the old fashion way the fronts have no air in them at all and work with very little pedal. The rears just when I think they do not have air in them I try to stop the rear wheels to stop at idle and I can stop them but it requires the pedal to the floor. Not good I rebleed them and the same thing. I think I will stop for a while and see if a shop around here has a good bleed tool and can do them. My head is flat from beating it against the wall
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  #5  
Old 04-30-2017, 12:26 PM
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Che70velle Che70velle is offline
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I've had this problem recently. I was getting the very fine bubbles with my vacuum bleeder. I removed the bleeders from the caliper, and put red wheel bearing grease on the threads of the bleeders liberally. I did this at each corner, and had a perfect pedal in 45 minutes. The ultra fine bubbles were coming from the bleeder screws threads. I went and purchased a new vacuum bleeder during the process, thinking I had an issue with the bleeder. Just about drove me crazy...
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70 velle' on custom chassis w/custom RideTech coilovers, RED sleeved 434” with Mamo 265’s, F-body Magnum, 12 bolt 3:73, wilwood 6/4's, bla, bla, bla...build. thread https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=39631
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Old 05-01-2017, 04:30 AM
vstol vstol is offline
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Originally Posted by Che70velle View Post
I've had this problem recently. I was getting the very fine bubbles with my vacuum bleeder. I removed the bleeders from the caliper, and put red wheel bearing grease on the threads of the bleeders liberally. I did this at each corner, and had a perfect pedal in 45 minutes. The ultra fine bubbles were coming from the bleeder screws threads. I went and purchased a new vacuum bleeder during the process, thinking I had an issue with the bleeder. Just about drove me crazy...
Thanks I am seeing that in the rear calibers but the fronts have no air at all. The calibers move each time we pump the brakes but just no bit and the pedal is sift
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