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Old 10-25-2020, 08:17 PM
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64G-lark 64G-lark is offline
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Once I was satisfied with the front sub frame, engine and trans mock up I pulled it back apart to close up all the holes in the firewall that I wouldn't be using.











Last edited by 64G-lark; 10-28-2020 at 06:47 AM.
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Old 10-25-2020, 08:37 PM
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With all the unneeded holes filled I put it back together to get it back to roller. I loaded it on a trailer and headed to Wisconsin to take it to Randy Johnson at D & Z Customs. I elected to get some professional help to build the transmission tunnel, install DSE mini tubs, a full floor pan, trunk pans, etc. I have known Randy a few years, he is a straight shooter and he was able to fit me in his busy schedule.

Out with the old.







The new to go in.



New rear crossmember/ subframe for the watts link and coil overs mounts welded into the inside of the rear frame rails. You can see the gas filler location in this picture above the left rear inner wheel tub. More to come on that later.


Last edited by 64G-lark; 10-29-2020 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 10-26-2020, 08:12 PM
bkswede bkswede is offline
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Looks great! I used the DSE mount for the clutch master as well. Also. on mine, we welded up the extra space in the firewall just above the steering column, which really helped clean up the firewall as well.


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Old 10-28-2020, 07:07 PM
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Thanks Andyd, I like lots of details.

When I test fit the engine and the Mast pan I created a new clearance issue. The left front portion of the pan didn’t clear a steering rack fitting. I had to cut out a small notch and create a piece to go back in place to clear it.

Before shot.


After shot









Next up was to create a trap door baffle for the pan. I started by cutting out the cast baffle in the pan. Then I started with a Improved Racing baffle for a Holley pan. The first issue is the Mast pickup is clocked 180 degrees opposite of the Holley so this meant the lower part of the trap door had to rotate 180 degrees as well.
Here is what I started with.




Here is the Mast baffle laid over the Improved Racing trap door.



The pickup difference. Mast on the left, Holley on the right.



And here is what I ended up with. It took way to much time to make this piece.



While fitting the pickup I decided to make the little hold down to use the second bolt on the oil pump. You can buy these but I was ready to button up the pan and didn’t want to wait so I made this one out of some scrap metal.


Before buttoning it all up I ran the Pan, and baffle through the dish washer to give it a good cleaning. Since it was not oily the wife approved. She has gotten used to parts coming into house for various reasons over the years.

Last edited by 64G-lark; 08-19-2021 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 10-28-2020, 07:35 PM
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The Speedway motor mount plates that attach to the block position the motor really well but they are made of steel and felt very heavy. The other thing I didn’t like was they used some separate spacers to position the actual motor mounts. This is just a pet peave but I hate have to line up bolts, spacer, motor mounts, and engine plates. So I decided to make some lighter weight ones out of 6061 Aluminum to save weight and incorporate the spacers in the design so I don’t have to worry about them falling out and rolling off when taking things in and out. Also saved 2.8 lbs ! My oldest son is a CNC machinist and enjoyed the challenge. He did a great job. This is probably the fifth or sixth set of LS mounts he’s made for me for various projects.






Last edited by 64G-lark; 10-28-2020 at 07:46 PM.
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Old 10-28-2020, 08:06 PM
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I was able to reuse my flywheel clutch and throw out bearing as they didn’t even have fifty mile on them. I am using a GM LS7. I checked the flywheel for runout and checked the bell housing alignment using a Bowler test fixture.





I made a little trip to the other side of Illinois to pick up this.



Tremec T-56 Magnum-F six speed from Bowler Transmissions. Thanks Mark and Tom.


Using a Summit Racing SFI harmonic balancer (4th gen F-body spacing)with ARP bolt.



All bolted together for the final install I hope.



Going to install the engine, transmission, subframe and All suspension as one assembly. So Time for some front brakes. I’m using Wilwood Forged Superlite 6R 14” Corvette front brakes.



My oldest son came to the rescue again and machined me some custom aluminum spacers for the caliper mounting bolts. They use a special shouldered bolt. My spindle ears are different than the factory Corvette spindles.


Last edited by 64G-lark; 10-30-2020 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 10-29-2020, 05:27 PM
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Great write up and I love the attention to detail and ingenuity... going to be an awesome ride! What are plans for intake, injectors, etc. for the LS7? Also, what are you using for ECU?

Brian


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Old 10-29-2020, 07:20 PM
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Thanks Brian I am going to run a LS3 intake and injectors as my engine is LS3 based. I am planning for a Holley Terminator Max ECU.
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Old 10-29-2020, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64G-lark View Post
Thanks Brian I am going to run a LS3 intake and injectors as my engine is LS3 based. I am planning for a Holley Terminator Max ECU.

Makes sense... should’ve caught that when you noted the 4.125” stroke in your earlier post. The Terminator Max is a great ECU... really capable and affordable.


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Old 10-30-2020, 05:16 PM
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Yes, we do have a large Caffeine and Octane show every month just down the street from me. Covid hasn't really slowed it down. I'm not sure if that's a good thing or not, lol. I've been staying home typically. Let us know if you ever make it down for the show. Rustomatic(Paul) and Che70velle(Scott) are in the area, too.
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