2nd Chance Camaro - Let the Project Begin

[syborg tt]

Now that the Afco "Direct Fit" Radiator is home and modified so it will work I might as well test fit it.





Cutting up some cheap radiator hose to make make sure I order the correct size hoses.



Next up...drill holes in the Core Support.



Eventually I will drill the holes larger and install "Well Nuts"



Works perfect





Testing a 3" Hose that I borrowed from a friend



Perfect Gap.

[WSSix]

Looking good, Marty. Are you going to use pipe and couplings for the coolant hoses? Those glass coolant pipes are cool!

[syborg tt]

Since I plan to drive this car and really don't want the hassle of having a battery in the trunk. Ron from Wilson Muscle Cars and I designed a factory fit Billet Tray for the battery. Actually it was my idea and Ron drew it up and I had TJ make a few of these.



Since I am running the Anvil Carbon/Fiberglass Inner fenders. I can't use the inner fender to support the battery tray in the front. My solution is to drill a hole in my inner fender and run a support rod up from the Core Support bracket.



Good News...I found something to replace the Chunky Bars.

[syborg tt]

Just cleaning up things a little bit.





Adding 40amp fuse which will also act as my kill switch.





The best $10.00 I have ever spent.



Final destination is the distribution block.

[cpd004]

Originally Posted by syborg tt

Now that the Afco "Direct Fit" Radiator is home and modified so it will work I might as well test fit it.





Cutting up some cheap radiator hose to make make sure I order the correct size hoses.



Next up...drill holes in the Core Support.



Eventually I will drill the holes larger and install "Well Nuts"



Works perfect





Testing a 3" Hose that I borrowed from a friend



Perfect Gap.

Marty, I'm not sure you'd have enough room for the radiator to 'move' as it heats and cools down with the side to side mounts. You may need some wiggle room there so the radiator doesn't crack somewhere. Maybe take a look on a modern cars cooling system. There should be 'pins' on the radiator that go into usually large grommets. Just a thought.

[syborg tt]

Originally Posted by cpd004

Marty, I'm not sure you'd have enough room for the radiator to 'move' as it heats and cools down with the side to side mounts. You may need some wiggle room there so the radiator doesn't crack somewhere. Maybe take a look on a modern cars cooling system. There should be 'pins' on the radiator that go into usually large grommets. Just a thought.

Eventually I’m going to be installing 3/4” well nuts on the upper mounts. Do you think that will be enough ??


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[cpd004]

Originally Posted by syborg tt

Eventually I’m going to be installing 3/4” well nuts on the upper mounts. Do you think that will be enough ??


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I'm definitely not an expert. Just had mine leak due to this exact thing. Hopefully someone will chime in that knows more. I think Steilow also mentions it somewhere in his thread.

Maybe contact the radiator manufacturer to get their thoughts?

[Goosesdad]

Here is the way AutoRad does it. The bolt cinches down tight on the short shaft collar, squeezes the o-ring a bit (not a lot - it mostly floats in the large hole in the rad), allowing the radiator to be captured but still float. Food for thought.

[syborg tt]

Originally Posted by Goosesdad

Here is the way AutoRad does it. The bolt cinches down tight on the short shaft collar, squeezes the o-ring a bit (not a lot - it mostly floats in the large hole in the rad), allowing the radiator to be captured but still float. Food for thought.
Attachment 73518

Attachment 73519

Here is what I plan to use. (( Well nut to scale ))

[syborg tt]

So I did a little research and found that a Radiator thermal expansion can be as much as 3mm which should easily be covered by the well nuts in all directions. The well nuts I have are 3/4" so this should allow for plenty of movement.

What's your thoughts guys ?

Originally Posted by Goosesdad

Here is the way AutoRad does it. The bolt cinches down tight on the short shaft collar, squeezes the o-ring a bit (not a lot - it mostly floats in the large hole in the rad), allowing the radiator to be captured but still float. Food for thought.