I'm overdue for an update. Haven't really accomplished much on the car but have been busy preparing for working on the car. I ordered my front tires after figuring out what size to get and had them mounted. I did finish modifying my OEM (Chev express van) bucket seat frames plus had an upholsterer lined up to cover them for me...that fell through. I spent entirely too much time (like 2 months of free time) fabricating telescoping wheel stands.
Now I'm scratching my head trying to figure our what to do next. The long overdue goal of getting the car off the rotisserie is conflicting with the numerous places on the car that still need detail type body work. I'm also wrestling with the idea of painting the jams of the car before I take it down. I really wasn't planning on putting the car back on the rotisserie once I take it down, but now I'm wondering if I'll be able to avoid it. More than anything, I would like to start putting parts (which have taken over my garage and home) on the car.
Right now I'm thinking I will address any body work fine tuning on the lower sections of the car where it would be unpleasant to do after its on the ground. The rockers for example. Next paint the jams (front and back glass channels, door openings and maybe even the bottom of the rockers. Then take it down and get it on its suspension on the wheel stands. Follow with the engine and trans into the car continuing with the endless list of things to do to get it back together and running. At some point down the road, when it feels right, I'll finish up the upper body work details followed by primer and paint. Simple right? What am I overlooking that is going to screw everything up?
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Those stands look solid! I guess you built them to be adjustable in height?
Yes. I'll use a scissor jack to raise/lower when the car is on them. 11" to 18" off the ground with one position in the middle. They turned out good but were a lot of work for what they are. Each one weighs 61#. Had to make the dolly so they could be moved without getting a hernia!
Yes. I'll use a scissor jack to raise/lower when the car is on them. 11" to 18" off the ground with one position in the middle. They turned out good but were a lot of work for what they are. Each one weighs 61#. Had to make the dolly so they could be moved without getting a hernia!
Solidly built w/heavy wall material = SAFE in this instance.
That's good weight. Your work on the car looks outstanding!
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Excellent work!
I'm at the same point in my project so I cant tell you what will work out best...but I plan to keep mine on the rotisserie until fully painted.
Jeff-
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You remind me of the timing on a turbo engine...
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The car is in epoxy and off the rotisserie. I mocked up the front and rear suspension plus the engine and trans and I'm working through some fitment and clearance issues currently. I was very happy to see that the narrowed rear fit correctly. I dumped a bunch of oil on my garage floor on my 1st attempt at installing the drivetrain. Turns out the flywheel bolt holes on my aftermarket crank are not blind.
The CPP tubular arms are nice, they went in easy and fit nicely. I did have to open up the round hole in the subframe at the top of the shock on one side of the car. The top of the shock body was interfering with the subframe. The biggest issue I've had is getting the driveline angles correct. The Hooker stuff left my engine/trans at about 5 degrees slope which is not what they advertise. I've been in contact with Holley support and they are unable to explain it at this point. I've had to shim my T56 Mag and additional 1.5" on the crossmember to get it down to 3 degrees. This puts the transmission quite high in the car and will likely create a clearance issue with the driveshaft next. My shifter is looking a bit tall also. Thankfully, I was able to get a measurement to order my driveshaft from Denny's. It was a pleasure dealing with them.
Another issue I'm dealing with is my hand built 4-link crossmember. I'm in the process of cutting the center section down a bit to give the driveshaft clearance at full rear droop. While I have the rear out of the car, I'll button up the brakes, brake lines and install my Moser cover. When it goes back in, it will also get new 1.25" link bars with bigger FK rod ends.
I've got all of my fuel and brake lines to run front to back also. Planning to run full size (-8AN) supply and return fuel lines with a bypass regulator under the hood. I really wanted to run hard lines but ultimately decided to use Jegs Pro Flow Extreme braided. It's not PFTE lined but is supposed to perform like PFTE lined. We shall see. That's about it for now.
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Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
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