do you have to run an intercooler when turbo or superchring?

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by boosted6

In your last sentance, That would not have happened if you were using Methanol Injection! 1). Methanol Injection would pick up where your fuel system falls short seeing it's a fuel and another injector! with this said that also means it lowers your injector duty cycle quite a bit and you don't have to wory about intercooler heat soak.. Plus you loose the weight of the intercooler and don't spend a fortune on race gas...
ALOT of possitives to Methanol Injection..

and some negatives. For example, if you're using the methanol as additional fueling as you state, and there's a failure in the system or you run out of alky then you have a good chance of damaging your engine. Many people do not tune for it for that very reason, although then you are losing most of the benefits of running alcohol injection (the ability to run more boost and timing on pump gas). Although I run water and/or alky injection on all my forced induction builds, running an intercooler is never a bad idea. There are cases where an intercooler is very hard to package, and the alky is a great way to go Actually, for heat absorption straight water is even better, but you lose the additional fueling and the slight octane boost of using alky.

My opinion, run both if possible.

Jody

[boosted6]

Originally Posted by camcojb

, and some negatives. For example, if you're using the methanol as additional fueling as you stated there's a failure in the system or you run out of alky then you have a good chance of damaging your engine. Many people do not tune for it for that very reason, although then you are losing most of the benefits of running alcohol injection (the ability to run more boost and timing on pump gas). Although I run water and/or alky injection on all my forced induction builds, running an intercooler is never a bad idea. There are cases where an intercooler is very hard to package, and the alky is a great way to go Actually, for heat absorption straight water is even better, but you lose the additional fueling and the slight octane boost of using alky.

My opinion, run both if possible.

Jody

To reply to the bold print above. I like to try and eliminate Negatives!! Thats why it's nice to have fail safe's built into your system! I have several on mine. I have a LOW LEVEL sensor so you won't run out of Methanol (it's not that hard to check the tank before you drive it!)..
The low level issue. If you have an injection system installed, it must have a functioning low level warning device. If left to chance, at some point you will guess wrong! Whether it’s a light behind the dash, on top of the dash, a factory “Low Warning” etc., the location must be clearly visible.

The only exception to this rule is on professional race applications that require foam added to the fuel cell to prevent excessive sloshing. In these applications it is common for fuel, water, oil, and other liquids be inspected after every run.

Ok, we’re sure system has liquid. Now another “what if”.

Second:
System test. A “fail safe” injection kit MUST have test button readily available for diagnostics. our PAC controllers feature a low-pressure test of the system. It’s important to note that this is NOT a full pressure test that could potentially hydro-lock an engine.

Ok, we tried the test button and the air/fuel changed. Now what?

Third:
Diagnostics. A Progressive System: This feature allows the system to begin spraying early with very low pressure and substantially before detonation assistance is needed. Once spraying begins an LED light is illuminated, indicating system activation. As the signal (MAP/MAF/Boost) to the controller increases so does the drive to the pump. Once the system pressurizes, the LED color will change from red to green. This indicates the system now has developed pressure and that hoses, connections, and pump are in proper working order. The “rate of change” from red to green give a predictability of the system. Any noticeable changes to this “transitional time” will be an indication of a system issue.

Examples:
The filter clogs…the system will transition from red to green instantly.
Nozzle clogs. (oops, can’t happen…we have a filter.) Someone pours a bag of sand into the tank…system lights up red, can’t make pressure, no green condition.
Bottom line, a well-designed, basic setup provides a simple, easy-to-diagnose system that is RELIABLE.

Scot w.

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by boosted6

To reply to the bold print above. I like to try and eliminate Negatives!! Thats why it's nice to have fail safe's built into your system! I have several on mine. I have a LOW LEVEL sensor so you won't run out of Methanol (it's not that hard to check the tank before you drive it!)..
The low level issue. If you have an injection system installed, it must have a functioning low level warning device. If left to chance, at some point you will guess wrong! Whether it’s a light behind the dash, on top of the dash, a factory “Low Warning” etc., the location must be clearly visible.

The only exception to this rule is on professional race applications that require foam added to the fuel cell to prevent excessive sloshing. In these applications it is common for fuel, water, oil, and other liquids be inspected after every run.

Ok, we’re sure system has liquid. Now another “what if”.

Second:
System test. A “fail safe” injection kit MUST have test button readily available for diagnostics. our PAC controllers feature a low-pressure test of the system. It’s important to note that this is NOT a full pressure test that could potentially hydro-lock an engine.

Ok, we tried the test button and the air/fuel changed. Now what?

Third:
Diagnostics. A Progressive System: This feature allows the system to begin spraying early with very low pressure and substantially before detonation assistance is needed. Once spraying begins an LED light is illuminated, indicating system activation. As the signal (MAP/MAF/Boost) to the controller increases so does the drive to the pump. Once the system pressurizes, the LED color will change from red to green. This indicates the system now has developed pressure and that hoses, connections, and pump are in proper working order. The “rate of change” from red to green give a predictability of the system. Any noticeable changes to this “transitional time” will be an indication of a system issue.

Examples:
The filter clogs…the system will transition from red to green instantly.
Nozzle clogs. (oops, can’t happen…we have a filter.) Someone pours a bag of sand into the tank…system lights up red, can’t make pressure, no green condition.
Bottom line, a well-designed, basic setup provides a simple, easy-to-diagnose system that is RELIABLE.

Scot w.

Scot,

you obviously have a nice system, but there can still be failures, and a guy running through the gears at wot may not see the light changing, etc. Don't get the red to green instantly deal if the filter is plugged, seems like a red light is a better indicator of trouble. Now I have to watch how fast the led changes............I do know it's tough to watch lights/gauges when going wot with a 1000 hp street car. Unless your system would automatically cut boost and change the timing if there was a failure then you're still depending on the guy noticing the leds. I am not knocking it, as I said I use one on every build including my current twin turbo. Haven't tried yours, but have used 4-5 different ones and other than features they all seem to work well.

Also, you really should consider becoming a site sponsor.

Jody