Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboNova
Getting people to post their tune file in a database is a good idea, however most think this is some black magic stuff and they are the only ones that can do it. It's very hard to change that kind of thinking.
The way you have your engine setup, you have to add more fuel than you would have to in order to get it to run good. In bank to bank mode the ECU will fire four injectors every 90 degrees of crankshaft rotation. In sequential it cuts down the firing and only fires one injector per ignition event. To get this to run without a cam sync you would have to really richen up the tune to get fuel left over at the valve to when it opened it would run smooth.
What about the new Fast crank trigger? It is only 1/16 thick and hall effect.
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Very interesting... fuel economy is a concearn... well, more like more MPG is better than less. I took a look at the FAST trigger when you mentioned before and assumed it had to be a hall effect. There are no Mopar applications listed and my damper is not flush across the face. It has a recess. That's actually why I did not use a standard trigger wheel from the start. I have couple of new aftermarket dampers on the shelf, I'll have to check those to see if they are flat.
Just noticed on the FAST site that the new wheels are .125", not 1/16".
Just went out and checked the shelf. I do have several SFI and non SFI flat faced dampers. The other issue I had with the standard flying magnet wheel is the thickness. I have a March single belt serpentine system and there's not much meat on the back of the crank pulley that could be machined off. 1/16" is much more feasable than 1/4". I may not even need to have it cut as I have it shimmed out about 1/8" right now for belt alignment. That may change with the new damper. I've got CAD files of the crank pulley bolt pattern so I could have a wheel cut if I could find a measurement of the tooth height and width.