G-machine of a different.......scale?!? - Page 14 - Lateral-g Forums

LateNight72 · #**131** 08-08-2007, 11:19 PM

Wow, fantastic work!

What about a black top with orange sides and a white hockey stripe seperating the two colors? Or orange top, black sides, white stripe?

black2002ls · #**132** 08-26-2007, 10:05 PM

The wheel is pretty well roughed out. I think I might find someone willing to put it on a lathe and true it up and clean up the center for me, also drill the holes for the bolts that would "hold" it to the outter hoop.

black2002ls · #**133** 08-28-2007, 01:21 AM

Well, I'm kinda glad I went with the black and gunmetal. Let me know what you guys think

**syborg tt** · #**134** 08-28-2007, 10:33 AM

looks really awesome

black2002ls · #**135** 08-28-2007, 10:55 AM

Thanks. The batteries in my cam were about dead. I'm finishing up the hood and spoiler this morning. Should be able to get it cleared Tomorrow morning or Thursday. I'll get some outside shots when I do.

PASD U · #**136** 08-28-2007, 06:57 PM

Clean. Better than what I expected. Look forward to the next set of pics. So

when can we expect to see some wheels on this thing?

black2002ls · #**137** 02-25-2009, 11:33 PM

Well,

Its been quite some time since I've spent quality time here on lateral-g. I was browsing the open discussion forum and saw Nelson Supercar 004. That thing is AMAZING. It has encouraged me to dig this thing out and get back to work on it. I've messaged Tom to see if I can get some more detailed pictures and possibly turn this into a replica of this car. Hopefully I can find someone to do machining in 1/12th scale for me at a reasonable price. That would really make things a lot easier where the wheels and other various things are concerned.

black2002ls · #**138** 06-22-2009, 04:35 PM

This thing has risen from the ashes. I've got the base for the rear tires formed, I think I've figured out how to create a fast 90/90 intake, I've spent most of today working on the front sub frame, waiting on some molds to dry. I re-worked the heads, removing valve covers and making new masters for each. I'm waiting on the mold for the heads and the mold for the tread blocks for the tires to cure so I can start casting those pieces. The tires will be TOYO proxes4 20"front and rear. I am hoping to stagger the widths front and rear. I'm still looking for someone to machine some wheel "hoops"for me without charging an arm and a leg....

First off the tires. I'm not sure if there are pictures hiding in here somewhere, but before all of my stuff got packed away, many moons ago. I had created a sidewall for a tire. I pulled that out, cleaned it up, and poured a mold. I took 5 of those and created the skeleton. 2 on inside and outside pressed together and one in the center for some support. Next I heated and wrapped a 2cm wide stip around the skeleton and glued it into place. Then I stacked 2 1.5mm strips and wrapped them around the center of the tire for the center rib. Once that was glued into place. I sketched the 3 different tread blocks that I needed and poured a mold. I'd much rather use a little casting rubber and be able to create identical pieces, than try to recreate them all by hand. My goal is to have a front and rear master, and cast them in casting rubber, we will see how that goes.

Next is the front sub-frame. I had lots of issues with this, I re-did it about three times today, and come to find out, it is the chassis that is warped, not my scratch built sub frame. Once the kit is all together and everything is tweaked properly it should be just fine. There is still a lot of work to do with this. The bar where the engine will mount to still needs to be constructed, mounts for both the rack and pinion steering, and the a-arms and suspension need to be done.

SRD Art · #**139** 06-24-2009, 11:18 AM

Nice to see some progress, keep it coming...

black2002ls · #**140** 06-24-2009, 12:16 PM

Thanks. Its taking a lot longer for my RTV molds to cure than it should. That is holding up a lot of progress. I've sorted out the coil overs for the most part. I need to get to home depot and pick up some larger heat shrink tubing to finish the effect. I'm doing the majority of this stuff without a mill or lathe, so its using different techniques to create the "look"of the part, such as threaded bodies for the coil overs. I started work on the a-arms last night, but I think I'm going to have to re-stock my plastic rod and use that instead of brass. Does anyone have an idea of the OD of the tubing for tubular control arms?