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  #1  
Old 10-05-2008, 05:03 AM
makoshark makoshark is offline
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Default Need help with designing my AN fuel system

I have a 67 camaro with a mildly built LT1. I am using the stock tank, so no suggestions into running an aftermarket won`t change my mind. I have read and read on this subject and I think I`m more confused now than when before I started researching this. I have a new stock tank, never had gas put in it, and a new fuel sender with 3/8 line and 1/4 line. I also have a new ss 3/8 line to run front to rear of car. I have bought numerous an fittings so far, but don`t have all I need. I bought weld on fittings for the rear of the LT1 fuel rails. I have bought fittings to adapt to the ss hard line. I also bought a 2 liter surge tank. I have an external walbro gsl 392 pump/ 255. What do I do about regulator and where is the optimal place to put it? Research is telling me in the rear. What about return line? I was thinking of making the 1/4 return line on the stock fuel sender as a vent line because research tells me that is too small for a return on my LT1. All help is greatly! greatly! appreciated.
Thanks,
Jeremy
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  #2  
Old 10-05-2008, 09:31 AM
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camcojb camcojb is offline
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the surge tank is a very good idea, should work great. You need a pump from the main tank to the surge tank, and a bypass line at the top of the surge tank back to the main tank. The 3/8 line from the main tank is fine for feeding the surge tank, but the 1/4" line is probably not big enough. I'd think closer to 3/8" for that also, so I'd have someone mod your stock pickup to swap the 1/4" line for a larger 3/8". You figure the bypass line back to the main tank from the surge tank has to flow enough to handle two pumps (one from the tank to surge and one from the surge to engine) minus whatever fuel the engine burns.

Then you need a second pump from the bottom of the surge tank to the engine, with a "Y" to the rails. I'd probably put a crossover line from rail to rail on the side you don't feed the rails with; i.e. if the fuel comes in the rear of the rails, make a crossover line (either hard line or an hose) to go between the front of the rails.

On the second pump I'd place the regulator right after the pump, in the rear of the car near the surge tank. It will bypass to the surge tank also, to keep the surge tank full. That way you only have one line to run to the front of the car, and there is no hot fuel from the rails being bypassed to the tank.

Jody
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Old 10-05-2008, 09:52 AM
makoshark makoshark is offline
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Great, thanks. Few more questions though. Where is the optimal place to put the surge tank? I was thinking about installing it in the trunk. What kind of pump do I use between the tank and the surge tank and what kind of regulator do I use? Aeromotive part #`s would be great. The fuel rails already have a front, factory, crossover tube on them. Do I use a T fitting on, say, the feed rail? I have a weld on an fitting that I was planning to install on my tank for the return and again just use the 1/4 line on the fuel sender as a vent tube. Does the surge tank need to be vented as well?
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Old 10-05-2008, 09:54 AM
makoshark makoshark is offline
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This is the surge tank I purchased.
It measures 14x13x13
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Old 10-05-2008, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makoshark View Post
Great, thanks. Few more questions though. Where is the optimal place to put the surge tank? I was thinking about installing it in the trunk. What kind of pump do I use between the tank and the surge tank and what kind of regulator do I use? Aeromotive part #`s would be great. The fuel rails already have a front, factory, crossover tube on them. Do I use a T fitting on, say, the feed rail? I have a weld on an fitting that I was planning to install on my tank for the return and again just use the 1/4 line on the fuel sender as a vent tube. Does the surge tank need to be vented as well?
the trunk would work fine. To fill the surge tank a simple internally regulated pump like the Holley red, Mallory, etc. would be fine, although most any pump with decent volume would work. You don't need a regulator for that pump, it just needs to be able to fill the keep the surge tank filled. It will have help from the main pump which bypasses back to the surge tank also. Anything beyond what the engine is pulling will flow back to the main tank through the top line from the surge tank to the main tank.

As far as a regulator for the main pump, I like the 13101 efi regulator from Aeromotive. I use their 11101 pump so this regulator will connect to the outlet of their pump with a #10 mail to male o-ring adaptor which makes a clean install. If you are using a Wal Bro or different pump that doesn't have a #10 outlet you'll need adaptor fittings to use this regulator. In that case a 13109 may work better for your application; handles good power and has smaller inlet/outlet.

A tee will work, I usually use a "y" as it flows more, probably not an issue on most installs. No vent for the surge tank, just a big enough line back from it to the main tank so there isn't pressure in it for the bypassed fuel from the main pump, which will screw with your fuel pressure at the engine. In other words, you don't want to restrict the bypassed fuel from the regulator as it will change your fuel pressure..

Jody
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Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #6  
Old 10-05-2008, 10:33 AM
makoshark makoshark is offline
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Would 6-an be large enough for the return or would it be safer to go to say 8-an?
Also, let me try to decifer this. After the main pump is the regulator. One line feeding the regulator, one line going from the regulator to the engine and then one line from the regulator back to the surge tank. Then one line from the surge tank back to the main tank. Am I correct?
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Old 10-05-2008, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makoshark View Post
Would 6-an be large enough for the return or would it be safer to go to say 8-an?
Also, let me try to decifer this. After the main pump is the regulator. One line feeding the regulator, one line going from the regulator to the engine and then one line from the regulator back to the surge tank. Then one line from the surge tank back to the main tank. Am I correct?
correct on the lines. I always use #8 return but #6 should be okay. Really very little cost difference so I'd still opt for the bigger line.

Jody
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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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