Mastercool Flaring Experts advice needed!

[Sti_Guy]

Picked up new tubing from Pure Choice, after 5 flares no change in the outcome at all. The tubing seems to be no different then what I already had.

Id be really interested to see what other peoples flares look like. Mainly the issue is the tube not able to slide down the tube all the way.

[GregWeld]

Dude ----

Okay -- seriously -- I did this just for you after reading your latest post... went to the shed - grabbed my camera - and made up a piece of 3/16" SS tube with a double flare - using my hydraulic MasterCool...

Okay here goes pictorial

Whacked off a perfectly good flare - for you...








REAMED the inside... you can see the reamer I use on a DeWalt bat drill





NOTE THE NICE INSIDE REAM JOB...





Load the blocks and the tube - the tube needs to be flush with the end of the blocks and the blocks need to be flush and square in their nice little holder... you DO NOT NEED TO GORILLA the blocks to hold the tube - just give her a nice snug... there are plenty of serrations inside the block to hold the tubing with just a little effort....




Done with both operations -- so first the proper die for the first op - then the 45 die to finish - this is what it looks like all done in the blocks. I UNTHREAD the hydraulic --- enough to be able to load the die - then thread the hydraulic until the die is into/touching the tube - then I close the hydraulic valve and squeeze - when she stops - I back off the hydraulic knob - and unthread the hydraulic so I can get the die off/out.





DONE! DUDE -- this just ain't rocket science!










Now it's ready to meet it's fate in one of these little dandy bender dudes...

[Sti_Guy]

Yeah its not brain surgery at all, if it was id have a lot better tools. Anyways looks like my results are very similar to yours, BTW nice pictures. I have the same procedure, cutting, deburing etc so nothing new locating the tube in the same place in the fixture making sure its flush. I think the issue is in the tube nuts. I'm reusing OEM ones and I'm guessing they have less room to allow the tube the flare, since its obvious the tube nuts you are using slide all the way down to the flare shoulder. Ill pickup some tube nuts this week and see how it comes together.

[317millhand]

kind of blurry, but heres on of mine on some 3/16 using the same procedure as greg

[GregWeld]

Those flares look good...

STI --- maybe you're using a wee bit too much pressure... you have a little bit of a bell in your photo - which you highlighted with the "box" (nice job btw!)... and that might not be allowing your nut to slip down like it should.. It might be that "last" pump of pressure - maybe try one with a bit less and see what that does for you?

[Sti_Guy]

Pretty sure i found the culprit of my issues.

[GregWeld]

I just went to check mine -- and BINGO!! You found the issue!!! Mine have perfect straight "threads" all the way.... they don't look like yours at all.


BTW -- I use the DUDE thing in there --- just for fun... I don't really talk that way.

[JRouche]

Oooh.. Yep, same here. My dies dont have a wrecked thread front like yours. Looks like someone pushed the threads in with the pump.

Now... I wouldnt think you should be able to do that if the dies were hard enough and the user was just flaring tubing. Any tubing, I dont care if its anealed or hard tube. The dies should be just as tough as the rest of the tool. It looks like the dies are soft.

Now you have me thinking. I might just set one up in the rockwell tester to give it a check. Ill bet she comes up on the soft side of what you would expect for a metal forming die. Interesting. JR

[Sti_Guy]

Yeah the die seems soft for sure. I just got this die brand new the other week from master cool and did under 15 flares with them. The cone has zero wear on it. I don't think I abused the tool in any way, but something is up for sure.

[Sti_Guy]

Contatced Master Cools Warrenty dept today they said it would be no problem to send me out another one. SO we will see how this works out.