...

Go Back   Lateral-g Forums > Technical Discussions > Engine
User Name
Password



Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 03-17-2012, 12:01 AM
John510's Avatar
John510 John510 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Ramon, CA
Posts: 1,345
Thanks: 1
Thanked 15 Times in 10 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dubbleu View Post
If you can bolt on an old crappy set for engine break in that is best.

I don't have an old set? What does an engine do during break in that I don't want my headers on there?
__________________
68 Camaro "Bloodline". OZMO Twin DBW LS3 with TSP 231/236 cam, Speedtech frame, Ridetech coilovers, Chassisworks G Billet/Fab 9, Asanti 19's, Fesler brakes, Carbon Anvil everything, etc.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

65 Fastback "Maddo" @ Meanstreets Performance. Ridetech, crate 306/T5, tubbed, Forgeline
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-17-2012, 12:08 AM
camcojb's Avatar
camcojb camcojb is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Wilton, CA.
Posts: 13,211
Thanks: 6,571
Thanked 2,019 Times in 921 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by John510 View Post
I don't have an old set? What does an engine do during break in that I don't want my headers on there?
really not as much of an issue with modern LS stuff. Older engines with flat tappet cams required a 30-45 minute 2500 rpm run in when first fired to break-in the cam. The higher exhaust temps with the car sitting still (no real airflow) will dull the header coating in most cases.

New LS stuff or roller cam engines don't need that break-in, so if the tune is okay there's no heat issues.
__________________
Jody

PAST CAR PROJECTS

Like Lateral-G on Facebook!

Follow Lateral-G on Instagram!

SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 03-17-2012, 08:33 AM
69x22's Avatar
69x22 69x22 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 609
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

My stainless works headers uncoated still look good but the stainless Magnaflow exhaust system is rusting (cheap grade of stainless).
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 03-17-2012, 09:48 AM
Vegas69's Avatar
Vegas69 Vegas69 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,692
Thanks: 87
Thanked 215 Times in 120 Posts
Default

The key is to wipe them down with alchohol before you run the engine the first time. If they are coated, you bring it up to temp and shut it down and let them cool off. Coated or stainless, they are going to deteriorate cosmetically with miles.
__________________
Todd
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 03-17-2012, 07:29 PM
GregWeld's Avatar
GregWeld GregWeld is offline
Lateral-g Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Scottsdale, AriDzona
Posts: 20,741
Thanks: 504
Thanked 1,080 Times in 388 Posts
Default

Roller cam motors don't need breaking in... and if it's a crate LS3 just fire it off and go drive.

GREAT QUALITY SS headers are one thing.... not so great SS headers look nasty after awhile... so the answer is "all depends". Like many here - I like the look of good quality SS turning gold etc... but not so much the nasty stuff. They need coating.

The headers on my '32 are polished FOOD GRADE SS -- and when they first turned I didn't like it -- but I've gotten over that and now don't mind them colored.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 03-18-2012, 12:49 AM
Bryan O's Avatar
Bryan O Bryan O is offline
Lateral-g Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Anthem, AZ
Posts: 491
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vegas69 View Post
The key is to wipe them down with alchohol before you run the engine the first time.
What effect does wiping the headers down with alcohol produce?
__________________
Bryan

Project Alchemy
https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=29820
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 03-18-2012, 09:47 AM
Rhino Rhino is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 242
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Patch View Post
What effect does wiping the headers down with alcohol produce?
It removes oils which would otherwise burn off and add to the tarnish.

In another thread someone mentioned treating them with rain-x, which others verified worked. Not sure what the science is behind it, and never tried it myself, but I'll be looking into it.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 03-18-2012, 11:09 AM
Sieg's Avatar
Sieg Sieg is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pacific Northwet
Posts: 8,034
Thanks: 33
Thanked 99 Times in 41 Posts
Default

Here's the Akrapovic stainless header on my KTM SDR, only thing I've used on it is WD-40 which Akrapovic actually recommends. My regular cleanup routine involves wiping the exhaust system down with WD-40.



I'd say its decent stainless based on the coloration though it has seen very little wet weather usage.

Here's the header as new:

Last edited by Sieg; 03-18-2012 at 02:47 PM. Reason: grammar
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 03-18-2012, 01:01 PM
John510's Avatar
John510 John510 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Ramon, CA
Posts: 1,345
Thanks: 1
Thanked 15 Times in 10 Posts
Default

Wow nice bike!
__________________
68 Camaro "Bloodline". OZMO Twin DBW LS3 with TSP 231/236 cam, Speedtech frame, Ridetech coilovers, Chassisworks G Billet/Fab 9, Asanti 19's, Fesler brakes, Carbon Anvil everything, etc.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

65 Fastback "Maddo" @ Meanstreets Performance. Ridetech, crate 306/T5, tubbed, Forgeline
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 03-18-2012, 02:51 PM
Sieg's Avatar
Sieg Sieg is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pacific Northwet
Posts: 8,034
Thanks: 33
Thanked 99 Times in 41 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by John510 View Post
Wow nice bike!
Thanks. Hopefully the exhaust condition helps answer your questions.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net