Shafiroff Engines ??

[Flash68]

Originally Posted by califconstruct

Options Dave.. Options... Dinero... Starting fresh.. Sorting out the best scenereo for a bad situation. If I have to spend 2k-3k to fix mine... I'm better off getting it warrantied and shelfing the numbers matching.... And getting a whole nother short block. However... I'm leaning to the LS now!

Oh,, and that production builder offers a 5 yr... 50k warranty.

They also do Fords...

Bla Bla Bla Art....

2 words for ya....

Numbers Matching....

Just listen to Rich and Rick at this point.... seriously.

[jarhead]

Originally Posted by 70 tt rustang

If those heads are bill mitchell sr heads i would look into new heads too. You will have to put alot of work into them to get 600. From my experience. i went with kasse heads and made 600 with 10.5.1 with .588 lift on a 428ci on pump

Do you have a build thread?

[TheParker]

A very close friend of mine has been running a Shafiroff 572 on and off for over 10 years. Its been in multiple cars and has sometimes sat for a while between swaps. He's always spoke highly of the customer service he receives when he calls them with a question. Fortunately he has never had an issue with quality of parts or it staying together.

Engine Builders are one of the few things i dont usually recommend.

Engine builders
Dentist
Body Shops

Ill tell you about my personal experience but its on you if you go.

[Panteracer]

A lot of the Pantera guys are now switching to Windsor motors
Cleveland blocks are too thin in many places

I have had a dart block 411 inch (same as a 408 but the bore is slightly
bigger) with brodix heads, billet rods, etc, etc
I buzz it to 7000 all day long been running it for over 10 years on tracks,
cruises etc... my engine builder was a guy I have know for many years
and only does a few a year.. he was at my shop last night

West coast engines.... Had a new guy buy a very modified Pantera $125k
but it had your west coast engine in it... first he lost a rocker and lifter,
His engine builder does his race cars and said it was all cheap stuff
so they fixed and an then lost the chain and a piston

He is doing a complete rebuild and throwing away most of the parts
except the block

If it is cheaper there is a reason.. Mopar guy I know got a 340 stroked
up from a so called Nascar builder in North Carolina... it lasted about
1000 miles before a bearing took a spin.. beware of cheap

The Chevy name you mentioned sounds like a great deal
good builder and pricing tells me it has the good stuff inside

Also a company in Socal .. speed.. something does a nice windsor
roller short block.. my buddy has one in his Pantera and has all the
good stuff inside for a decent price...if you need the name I can find
out as I am not good with names.. have my Pantera jacket with
my name on it in case I get lost

I found out a long time ago if you are just going to cruise around
and hit it every once in a while you don't need to spend too much
If you are going to track, autocross, drag it then you better put
the good parts inside otherwise it will make funny noises quickly
I have blown up over a dozen motors because I could not afford
to do it right

Bob

[jarhead]

Thanks Bob

[GregWeld]

I'm only going to say a few words about motors... Cheap is cheap for a good reason and that "good" isn't good - or cheap - when you have issues. If you're going to drive the car on Sunday morning - and put very few miles on it - and never want to wing the SOB to the moon or go to the track. You MIGHT get away with cheap for awhile.

Just the rods in my race motor cost $2,300.... It's at WOT as much as humanely possible... the builder wants me to bring it back for a refresh every 40 hours of operation. That's a long time when you're doing 20 minute track sessions. The rebuild - think about this - just the rebuild was $14,000.... and people want to sell you a complete motor for 5 or 6 or 7,000....

My point?? This isn't a place to shop "money" - this is a place to do your homework based on what's right for you and your application and let the money be whatever that is. Cheap parts are cheap - the guy building your motor will then be inclined to say to himself "this is good enough" when machining and assembling... Cheap rods and cranks aren't going to be the same as good rods and cranks... I'm not saying you have to build a "race motor" -- but we all know the drill here. Everyone wants bragging rights with the dyno numbers. Then they DON'T want to pay what it costs to get those numbers to actually LAST for awhile... then they want to go out and run the poor little SOB like it is a "race" motor - because - after all - they have "X" horsepower.... Good luck with that. As an ex pyrotechnician -- I'd describe that as a very short fuse.

[Panteracer]

So to correct myself the builder I was was talking
about is Coast High Performance... Cheaper motors

My buddy did a short block by M&R out of Glendale ca
Very happy with their work

Most of the Alum heads today flow pretty good out of the box
Afr,Brodix to name a few

Rockers (girdle up top) Lifters (spider for retaining them)
and getting the right height on the rocker with proper pushrods
Length is where people go wrong even with the good parts

To check put some grease on the top of the valve then turn it over
by hand at least 6-7 times. The tip of the rocker should be hitting
In the center. If it is off then it will be a problem. Trust me I have
Broken too much before. Many people just don't check things anymore
My builder says the little details are what matter even if you use good
parts. My last bit keep the stroke even. 408 is better than 427 in a Windsor
351. 331 is better than 347 in a 302

Bob

[jarhead]

Thanks Greg, and Bob, I get it now.

Joe

[Panteracer]

Not a problem. We've been thu it a few times
and learned the hard way

Bob

[70 tt rustang]

Originally Posted by jarhead

Do you have a build thread?

No i dont but if you have any questions please feal free to ask