Project "Payback" - Page 24 - Lateral-g Forums

Vegas69 · #**231** 06-08-2008, 09:12 AM

Well I have run into a couple problems that will slow me down.

The drivetrain angle is approx 4.5 degrees measuring off the tail shaft, and that is with it uncomfortably close to the tunnel. I am going to order the driveshaft and measure off the U joint caps like Jim over at Classic Chevy 5 speed said I must do. Looks like the tunnel will need cut or I'll have to put stock height bushings in the car. I would have to cut the subframe connector welds to put stock height bushing in it anyway. At this point I'll probably cut the tunnel due to already cutting all my custom lines. I did ask for stock height bushings when Prodigy built my roller, so not real excited about all the trouble it's caused me so far. More than likely Payback is going to have to make a trip down to ATS for the tunnel fabrication. May just get it running and have him do the tunnel and exhaust all at once.

Had to cut the hole for my AC in my DSE dash and the paint chipped when I pulled off the tape. Make sure you cut all your holes before you paint it.

Lenie · #**232** 06-08-2008, 10:44 AM

Todd, As with myself, it seems like it's always something. Keep plugging away, that's a beautiful car you have there.

Good Luck
Lenie

skatinjay27 · #**233** 06-08-2008, 06:36 PM

thats weird that it chipped... what did you use to cut it??? from the pic it looks like it would be better to repaint it anyways cause the paint line from the black to the silver doesent look too straight...
i can see it now, when you pulled that tape off and took some paint with you, you must have been pissed.
also sorry to hear about the tunnel... those body drops have been giving you a good amount of trouble...

Vegas69 · #**234** 06-08-2008, 09:49 PM

It's 1/8 inch steel so I had to use a cut off wheel and a die grinder. Looks like it will be headed back to Prodigy for a redo. I am going to go ahead and order the driveshaft and get exact measurments. It would be ideal to get the driveline to 3 degrees. Right now I can get it to 4.5-5 which may work as long as the driveshaft is at 1-1.5 degrees. You take your drivetrain and pinion angle and subtract your drive shaft angle. If I have to cut the tunnel I will. In the end I am sure the aggravation will be worth it. Just wasn't expecting it.

Vegas69 · #**235** 06-17-2008, 11:44 PM

Been super busy with work and vacation but I managed to get out in the garage tonight and made some major progress.

At this point I wouldn't recommend DSE half drop body bushings to my worst enemy. That 1/2" is desperately needed in the tunnel with a TKO 600 and a slammed chassis. It's also needed for the air cleaner.

One step back

After alot of research I found out that I had 1969 307 frame stands and 1967-1968 small block engine mounts. They changed the motor mounts in 1969 for the low performance small blocks. I couldn't have had a taller set up. I do have to thank Dan Lemons for that one. I am going to email him so he can update his records. I figured out that going to 1969 HI Po 302/350 mounts gained me 3/8 of an inch. They used them to gain hood clearance for the cowl induction option. On the left you will see my new set up that gains me 3/8 which equals about .2-.3 in driveline angle but it made just enough difference. The aircleaner clearance is a bonus.

My new driveshaft showed up today from Empire Driveline and Classic Chevy. What a nice piece!!!

Will insall and measure working angles on my =driveshaft tomorrow hopefully. If that all checks out Tyler at ATS will be getting a call to fab my crossmember finally!

With the tranny not touching the tunnel and the vent as close as possible with no compression the intake is at .1 degree and the driveline angle is 4.1 down. I found that the valve cover crease is equal to the tail shaft angle. The car does pitch down in the front slightly stance wise so I will more than likely gain a little and the car the intake will probably end up perfect along with the drivettrain angle. I am probably going to build some blocks to put the weight on the front wheels to get it at true ride height and compress the rear end fully to do my final drivetrain/driveshaft angles. Things look pretty good now...I can probably tweek the cross member with shims just enough to make it work and be in spec with no vibrations or unwanted noises. Time will tell.

Vegas69 · #**236** 06-17-2008, 11:44 PM

To achieve the measurments I leveled the car using the rockers.

awr68 · #**237** 06-18-2008, 09:15 AM

Sorry to hear about your troubles! I too have the .5" lower body mounts and redid the tunnel top on a rust free floor...not what I had planned but the T56 had to fit and I had already welded the SFC's in at that height. Kyle offered to swap out my mounts for stock height but I decided I would rather do the tunnel than revisit the SFC's. In hind sight I probably should have swapped to stock height mounts to make many other things work easier...live and learn!!

Good to see you are back to making progress!!

**waynieZ** · #**238** 06-18-2008, 07:20 PM

I'm glad its working out for you I would have hated to see you cut the tunnel being so close to start up.
Wayne

**waynieZ** · #**239** 06-26-2008, 09:15 PM

Anything new ?
Wayne

Vegas69 · #**240** 06-26-2008, 11:40 PM

The rear end is all set up as good as I can get the driveline angles with what I have to work with. Tyler has my crossmember and is modifying it into a three piece design similar to the T56 kit he sells. I have my dual fans wired up. Really waiting on some parts right now. Once I have my AC, DSE dash back from repaint,crossmember, steering wheel adapter,front brakes, it won't be long before that key turns.