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  #251  
Old 11-26-2012, 08:28 AM
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  #252  
Old 11-26-2012, 09:31 AM
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Anytime the Rajah opines on Dub Renner in a totally unrelated thread...it's gonna be good.
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  #253  
Old 11-26-2012, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ironworks View Post
I really think Renner did not allow this site to control his life enough and hence his fall from super stardom.


Was the Doctor Renner, AKA: Big Wanda, "fall" like a tree falling in an empty forest? If nobody was around to hear it - did it make any noise?

That Gap Spray just didn't really take off and sell like he thought it would... Or did the Moonshine have a lasting detrimental affect?
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  #254  
Old 11-26-2012, 04:59 PM
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Not exactly accurate. I talked to him for quite awhile (sober, mind you ) at Goodguys 2 weeks ago about his whole system. It ain't as bad as you make it out to be. But it ain't no stock LS1 either.

Priming the pump is recommended by most (except Rob's dry sump guru) after prolonged sitting. But there are "adapters" out there to make that pretty easy.

Yeah Mike was hilarious describing his setup when I talked to him. I asked him how many stages his pump was.. he said "I have no idea". LOL. He said the whole system (motor, trans, dry sump system) has been in the car since last year and has run without a hitch since then. Some road course action, many autocrosses, and commuted to work (about 50 miles or so roundtrip) at least 10 times he said. Hey, who said that stuff can't be reliable?

Well, Matt?
As someone who has driven Mikes Mustang both on the street and at the auto-x i would not want to have that motor in anything other than a pure auto-x/track car. The clutch is an on/off switch and yes you do have to heat the oil and water for 45-60 minutes,prime the oil pump with a air ratchet until you get oil pressure then reconnect the belt, etc, etc, etc.

My vote would be for either the crate motor with blower or a high revving 331 sbf.
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  #255  
Old 11-26-2012, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by chetly View Post
As someone who has driven Mikes Mustang both on the street and at the auto-x i would not want to have that motor in anything other than a pure auto-x/track car. The clutch is an on/off switch and yes you do have to heat the oil and water for 45-60 minutes,prime the oil pump with a air ratchet until you get oil pressure then reconnect the belt, etc, etc, etc.

My vote would be for either the crate motor with blower or a high revving 331 sbf.
My last comment on this side bar as Matt will not be doing a dry sump I bet, but Mike said it best when he said it takes a special kind of stupid crazy to love that kind of motor and drive it on the street. He and I have that in common.
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  #256  
Old 11-26-2012, 05:10 PM
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My last comment on this side bar as Matt will not be doing a dry sump I bet, but Mike said it best when he said it takes a special kind of stupid crazy to love that kind of motor and drive it on the street. He and I have that in common.
Well said.

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  #257  
Old 11-26-2012, 05:50 PM
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My last comment on this side bar as Matt will not be doing a dry sump I bet, but Mike said it best when he said it takes a special kind of stupid crazy to love that kind of motor and drive it on the street. He and I have that in common.
You're out of your mind. There is a point where it takes the fun out of it for me and that is a long way across that line.
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  #258  
Old 11-26-2012, 07:00 PM
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Just put a supercharged Coyote in it!! That way I can still beat you on the Auto-X with my N/A LS3 Camaro that weights 3800 lbs..
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  #259  
Old 11-26-2012, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash68 View Post
My last comment on this side bar as Matt will not be doing a dry sump I bet, but Mike said it best when he said it takes a special kind of stupid crazy to love that kind of motor and drive it on the street. He and I have that in common.
Dry sump has nothing to do with the nonsense described above. Heating oil and priming the system are all because they set the motor up with super tight bearing clearances. This allows the race teams to run at high temps for extended periods of time with Low weight oil and low parasitic drag while still protecting the bearings from cavitation.

So your race motor with 0.0011-0.0015" clearance will run great but not if you don't warm the oil. If you aren't going to run it full tilt for 500 mi and can sacrifice a few hp run looser clearances.

Now back to Matt. Resale you are probably better with a Coyote. A Windsor will get it done and take all kinds of abuse.
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  #260  
Old 11-26-2012, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chetly View Post
As someone who has driven Mikes Mustang both on the street and at the auto-x i would not want to have that motor in anything other than a pure auto-x/track car. The clutch is an on/off switch and yes you do have to heat the oil and water for 45-60 minutes,prime the oil pump with a air ratchet until you get oil pressure then reconnect the belt, etc, etc, etc.

My vote would be for either the crate motor with blower or a high revving 331 sbf.
i agree, stroke a winsor with a light weight crank, aluminum flywheel, top off with a nasty looking injection system and be done with it matt. I think it would have to be stretched a bit more to fit a Coyote in between them flares.
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