1970 Camaro RS Operation Budget LSx

[1970camaroRS]

Mark IV Big Block weighs roughtly 685lbs with iron heads.

LS1 is 400-430 lbs depending on source.

LQ4/9 is 70lbs more than that, so 470-500lbs...that would be 215-185lbs lighter than a BBC.

Should be fun.

[1970camaroRS]

Got the oil pan off today and took a look at the bottom end. As soon as I get myself a torque wrench with the proper range I will install the ARP rod bolts and do a step by step.





I cleaned everything off and then oiled everything down. No discoloration, just general varnish and carbon build up on everything. Previous owner definately didn't change their oil too often. Thank god it looks like they never ran it low.

[GM Muscle]

be sure to do one bolt at a time. it will be a fast a painless process. i took mine and backed the bolt all the way out then in a bout 5 turns. then grabbed some channel locks and "yanked" on the bolt head. it brought the ferrel out with it. then just put the arp bolt in and torque it, be sure to use the installation grease when installing them. then move on to the next bolt.. ls1howto.com has some good info floating around ...

[1970camaroRS]

After working a 10-hour Sunday shift for the Boeing co and having my obligatory valentine's bedroom time with my wife, I escaped to one of my two man-caves. (the other is my office where I'm at right now).

After finding a three-jaw puller and getting the balancer/crankshaft pulley off, I was finally able to get started.

Installed the camshaft (should have gotten a picture of it sitting next to the stock truck cam....what a difference!) and then I installed the SLP double roller timing set. That was a breeze. It's a really nice piece too.



Check out the dot to dot on my install....anyone think I screwed it up? I think I'm right on.



Test fit the ported SLP pump without the shims just to see.



The chain does get REALLY close to the pump, but doesn't quite touch. I can see that in operation it probably would, hence the shims that were included with the pump.



Ran out of time and didn't have any sealant for the shims....so that will probably be that for the week. Tune in next week when I install ARP rod-bolts, complete the oil pump install and button up the bottom end. If I'm feeling up to it, I might even install my ARP headstuds and the ported heads. But that's only if I find a valve spring compressor in time. Might just have to go buy one....

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by GM Muscle

be sure to do one bolt at a time. it will be a fast a painless process. i took mine and backed the bolt all the way out then in a bout 5 turns. then grabbed some channel locks and "yanked" on the bolt head. it brought the ferrel out with it. then just put the arp bolt in and torque it, be sure to use the installation grease when installing them. then move on to the next bolt.. ls1howto.com has some good info floating around ...

Remember that NEW bolts aren't to torque spec until you've torqued them MULTIPLE TIMES... My advice when using NEW bolts like this - is to torque them all == then back 'em all off - and torque 'em again - and do this about FIVE TIMES.... to final torque. It takes a little bit more time - but is good insurance.

[LSXZ28]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Remember that NEW bolts aren't to torque spec until you've torqued them MULTIPLE TIMES... My advice when using NEW bolts like this - is to torque them all == then back 'em all off - and torque 'em again - and do this about FIVE TIMES.... to final torque. It takes a little bit more time - but is good insurance.

Good advice! I've seen alot of leaking head gaskets because someone didn't want to take the time to do this! New bolts gotta be stretched, or they will do it themselves later. 5 times is what ARP recommends...

[68400BIRD]

Just trying to learn here. If you install new rod bolts shouldn't the ends be resized???

[1970camaroRS]

Originally Posted by 68400BIRD

Just trying to learn here. If you install new rod bolts shouldn't the ends be resized???

Nope, not on LS motors. On a classic small block, the rod has a different design that requires a resize when you mess with the rod bolts (not actually bolts on a SBC). On LS motors, the rods are held together with actual bolts, and all you need to do is replace and torque them.

[Vegas69]

And that's because the rods have sleeves to align the cap and rod.

[93Polo]

Originally Posted by 1970camaroRS

I love answering this question. To be honest, I aquired the LQ4 with the intentions of running L92 heads, but one heck of a deal came across my plate and I had to take it. The heads without valve springs only ran me $650 shipped and I already have the springs, locks and retainers I was going to use on the L92s. They were also recently redone and milled for a smaller chamber, which is a must on the LQ4 with dished pistons to bring up the compression ratio.

Here are the technical reasons that made the final decision for me.

1. The valve size on this head is only 2.0" as opposed to the giant 2.16" valve on the L92 meaning I can run a much more aggressive cam before running into PtV issues.

2. The runner volume is 30cc less than L92s meaning more port velocity and more torque, especially on an engine that might not have the highest compression ratio in the world. Or cubic inches. This is a street car after all.

3. They flow within 10 cfm at peak and 5 cfm everywhere else of the stock L92s. I will be giving up a few peak HP in trade for more torque, but I will make up for it with the camshaft.

4. My LS6 heads will use my stock rockers that I already have. If I had a larger budget I'd get the needle bearings replaced, but I'm just going to have to sit on this one. They checked out good during inspection anyway. No need for offset rockers that L92s need.

5. Did I mention that they were $650 shipped?

-Nathan

Very much agree with your thought process. The L92/LS3 suff does seem to turn a higher peak hp # but the the cathederal ports often have a higher peak tq and broader curve mostly due to velocity.

Since I did my heads and cam ls1 6 years ago I have also noticed a trend on ls1tech and the LSx world in general to go with a big cam that get the hp #s but does not have the curve to go along with it. A well thought out LS6 heads and cam can turn some great #s. Looks like you have a solid plan.

If you have not already done so and decide to go for more cam, search Ls1tech for topics on dynamic compression, a calculator was floating around IIRC PianoProdigy posted it. Depending on the static compression of your LQ4 with the milled heads you can get more greedy on the cam. Good luck on the build.