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Old 07-18-2007, 03:34 PM
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Default painters, question about solid colors



I've painted several of my own cars, but they've always been metallics, micahs, etc. I have never shot a solid color.

With the above you have to paint it all at once, at least I do, and I hang the sheetmetal in the general angles that they will be on the car. I prefer to paint my car completely apart as it does better for me in the tight areas, jambs, fender edges, etc.

My question is that with a solid beige like in my rendering above I think I can paint the pieces separately from the car itself. In other words, shoot the shell one day and then doors/fenders, trunk, and hood the next. Obvious all from the same bucket of paint, at the same reduction, same gun, same temps, same number of coats, etc. I've talked to people who say they have shot pieces separately on different days without issue, but none of them are 100% trustworthy in my opinion. One guy likes to get one piece perfect, paint it, and then on to the next piece. Might take him a week or more to shoot everything and says there are no cast issues, etc. with the solid colors, it always matches as long as all the pieces are shot out of the same paint bucket. My question is, is there a danger doing this? It would be a huge advantage to not have to get a huge area constructed for the booth with all the sheetmetal plus the body. I have the perfect sized area for either the body alone, or separate pieces, but not both.

Jody
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Old 07-18-2007, 05:32 PM
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"Paging 68protouring454"
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Old 07-18-2007, 05:40 PM
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make sure its the same paint, same person spraying, you could do parts 6 months apart and be fine, for that matter with how paint is mixed today as long as you have 1/2 a brain you should not even have to use all the same mix, BUT you do just to eliminate any chance there is. i would not be too concerned with the weather, just make sure there is some air flow and the weather won't be a factor, and use same application technique.
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Old 07-18-2007, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68protouring454
make sure its the same paint, same person spraying, you could do parts 6 months apart and be fine, for that matter with how paint is mixed today as long as you have 1/2 a brain you should not even have to use all the same mix, BUT you do just to eliminate any chance there is. i would not be too concerned with the weather, just make sure there is some air flow and the weather won't be a factor, and use same application technique.

Perfect, thanks Jake.

Jody
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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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Old 07-18-2007, 06:53 PM
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what are you going to use for materials? what does the car have on it now. urethane primer? if so i would wet sand with 600 and if no burn thru's i would go right to base coat, if you do seal it, still have it sanded out to 600 and just piss coat it, no need for any build, goodluck i am sure you know what to do
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Old 07-18-2007, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68protouring454
what are you going to use for materials? what does the car have on it now. urethane primer? if so i would wet sand with 600 and if no burn thru's i would go right to base coat, if you do seal it, still have it sanded out to 600 and just piss coat it, no need for any build, goodluck i am sure you know what to do
yeah, urethane primer. Seems this basecoat (Sikkens) covers great so a couple coats max just for good coverage and then clear coat.

Thanks again Jake.

Jody
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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
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Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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Old 07-19-2007, 05:49 AM
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With modern paints you shouldn't have any trouble panel painting it. Even metallics these days are pretty safe for this. Now the 3 & 4 stage stuff...

Sikkens is a great paint to work with though. I've been using DuPont Premier lately, and have had good luck with it too. I've also used Diamont with great success... I think as long as you have a good gun, you're OK

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Old 07-23-2007, 09:19 AM
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thanks Bill.

Jody
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PAST CAR PROJECTS

Like Lateral-G on Facebook!

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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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Old 07-25-2007, 01:49 AM
race-rodz race-rodz is offline
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make sure everything is spotless clean. dirt, lint, all that other fun stuff stands out 100000000% more on a light solid color than on any pearl/met color.

my personal favorite is painting something with a high met color, half a$$ the cleaning of the booth prior to painting something black....roll it out side and see the panel you just painted has a nice fine met to it only visible in sunlight. this is the point where you smack yourself in the back of the head and clear tomorrows schedule....cuz you doin a redo, after you spend extra time cleaning the booth out.

one of these days when i get rich...im gonna have a nice fancy downdraft....so i can remember back to when everything was a PITFA
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Old 07-25-2007, 05:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by race-rodz
make sure everything is spotless clean. dirt, lint, all that other fun stuff stands out 100000000% more on a light solid color than on any pearl/met color.

my personal favorite is painting something with a high met color, half a$$ the cleaning of the booth prior to painting something black....roll it out side and see the panel you just painted has a nice fine met to it only visible in sunlight. this is the point where you smack yourself in the back of the head and clear tomorrows schedule....cuz you doin a redo, after you spend extra time cleaning the booth out.

one of these days when i get rich...im gonna have a nice fancy downdraft....so i can remember back to when everything was a PITFA
i love my blowtherm baking oven downdraft booth!!! good advice, jody apply 2-3 coats of base, then carefully check entire car for dust etc, wet sand with 800-1000 anything you find then dust in base, as rod says it will look worse then a dark color because not only will you see the chunk but more then likely it will stick way out being on a light color
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