TIG welding sheetmetal

[out2kayak]

Just curious how folks setup your TIG machines for welding sheet metal.

Do you still follow the 1 amp / .001" rule of thumb?

I've been playing in the 80 amp range for 16 gauge with 15 CFH and a 3/32 2% lanthanated tungsten.

I've been reading at http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6292 a "no hammer method" of welding sheet metal that I'm going to try, but wanted to hear what others are doing.

Thoughts?

[The WidowMaker]

im interested as well.

for the 16ga 304 exhaust that i just did, i was running 65-70a with the pulse set to 2ppm 75/25 and i was getting good penetration with a back purge. used an 1/8th 2% lan and 18cfh.

im still new and suck at keeping my hands moving and adding filler for other style joints. i have a dynasty 200dx and bought the hand controls. it only sucks because my hand is positioned so far down the torch. it makes it really hard to keep it stable. foot controls would make it easier in some aspects, but i really liked being able to tack under the car without the lift arc.

[ccracin]

I'll make it a third for this discussion. Bring on the info people!

[Fluid Power]

I wish I knew as well. I read a lot of stuff on here:

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/

Darren

[ironworks]

I say BS on the no hammer method. I takes very little heat to warp a panel. 48" at 2.5 minutes is 3 seconds. If you have ever TIG welded that is a pretty fast feed rate. The most important part of welding sheetmetal is cooling your panel. The more heat you put in the panel the more you have to fix. Plus how many sheetmetal panels on a car are 16 gauge? Most are 18-20 gauge. 18 gauge is .045 and 16 Gauge is .065. I doubt you could fully penetrate and .065 panel with a fusion weld that was not thin.

I got it maybe this weld was done under water. There we go, under water TIG welding will help control distortion.

[ccracin]

Originally Posted by ironworks

I got it maybe this weld was done under water. There we go, under water TIG welding will help control distortion.

I'm sorry I asked! Job security ha Rog!

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by out2kayak

Just curious how folks setup your TIG machines for welding sheet metal.

Do you still follow the 1 amp / .001" rule of thumb?

I've been playing in the 80 amp range for 16 gauge with 15 CFH and a 3/32 2% lanthanated tungsten.

I've been reading at http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6292 a "no hammer method" of welding sheet metal that I'm going to try, but wanted to hear what others are doing.

Thoughts?

I typically run more amperage than I want to use... and because I use a foot pedal - I can back off or add heat as needed. I like to set the machine up just a little higher -- and then just use the bare minimum needed to make the weld.

I will always use the smallest tungsten I have to weld with especially on sheet metal. I like the keep the arc tight - the arc distance tight - and again - the minimum amount of heat to do the job. 3/32" on sheet metal -- is way large by huge. For sheet metal like we're talking about - car patches etc -- I'm in the 1/16th or .040 range again - depending on the heat... too small and you're going to blow tungsten into your weld... to large - and it takes too much heat to even get the tungsten working and by then - you're going to have a big HAZ and or a big ol' hole to fix.

[TimeWarpF100]

Originally Posted by out2kayak

Just curious how folks setup your TIG machines for welding sheet metal.

Do you still follow the 1 amp / .001" rule of thumb?

I've been playing in the 80 amp range for 16 gauge with 15 CFH and a 3/32 2% lanthanated tungsten.

I've been reading at http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6292 a "no hammer method" of welding sheet metal that I'm going to try, but wanted to hear what others are doing.

Thoughts?

Good Question! Getting too old to remember settings...I will have to get back with you on that one! LOL I use 1/16 or .040 depending on what sheet metal I am welding. 3/32 maybe on 16 gauge or more. I have also found how I grind the tungsten makes a HUGE difference.

If a critical area I use heat sink to keep the heat where I am welding and it works well.

Not mild steel but this is a tank Ijust built for my old pickup

[Sandbagger]

I could use a little advice here ....ok allot of advice
Im trying to tig 18 & 20 guage sheet metal . I do alot of patch panels .
Not having much success with this Miller Econotig . I have a foot pedal .
I have tried 3/32 tungsten .Today I tried a 1/16 tungsten and filler rod .
I was told today it would be very difficult to do 20 guage with this welder .
True ?
3/32 I burned through . 1/16 not enough .
I have been grinding to a point allot like a #2 pencil . Tried all kinds of stick out with the tungsten .
frustrated ...

When I turned the amps down , I got an arc through the cup , or diffuser . Not the tungsten .a couple times .

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by Sandbagger

I could use a little advice here ....ok allot of advice
Im trying to tig 18 & 20 guage sheet metal . I do alot of patch panels .
Not having much success with this Miller Econotig . I have a foot pedal .
I have tried 3/32 tungsten .Today I tried a 1/16 tungsten and filler rod .
I was told today it would be very difficult to do 20 guage with this welder .
True ?
3/32 I burned through . 1/16 not enough .
I have been grinding to a point allot like a #2 pencil . Tried all kinds of stick out with the tungsten .
frustrated ...

When I turned the amps down , I got an arc through the cup , or diffuser . Not the tungsten .a couple times .

Nobody can teach you how to TIG weld via a forum.... YOU are probably doing something wrong - but it'd be pretty dang hard to say what that would be by reading and replying to a post. Not being a smart ass here -- or being down on you. Just trying to be factual. TIG is an acquired art/skill. The settings are "guidelines" - to be adjusted by the welder depending on the materials being used... the job... the skill... the speeds at which the individual welder welds... it's all "sorta"...

It could be the way you're grinding your tungsten - could be the gas flow - could be the material - could be the fit up - could be the who knows what.

Check your GROUND.... Check that your material is as clean as a newborns butt... or cleaner. DO NOT USE CHLORINATED CLEANERS -- that will kill you... I clean all my edges with a scotchbrite or 3M scuff pad on a die grinder... get the scale etc off the edges. Get 'em down to brite clean metal... FIT UP IS SO IMPORTANT - CLOSE MAN - GET EM CLOSE. You should be able to tack the piece in without filler on a corner weld... probably have to use some filler on a butt weld (like a fill panel)...

20 gauge is weldable with a book of matches... any welder can handle that gauge... so that isn't the problem. The thinner the material the more skill required would be my only caveat.

What gas are you using -- should be ARGON only -- 100%. Flow around 10 or 12 CFH @ 20 psi

You should use a 1/16" 2% Ceriated/ or 2% Thoriated tungsten with a sharp point - and 1/16" filler - ER70S6.

How are you sharpening your points? Do you use a dedicated wheel? If not - you should...

Look up - YOUTUBE - and search videos on sharpening your tungsten if you haven't already. And also search and watch any videos you can on beginning TIG welding. You might pick up some info that will help you.

I'm sorry that you are frustrated with this style of welding -- but once you get the hang of it - you won't want to weld any other way!