...

Go Back   Lateral-g Forums > Technical Discussions > Chassis and Suspension
User Name
Password



Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 10-06-2005, 09:14 PM
sinned's Avatar
sinned sinned is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: in the dirt...looking for the apex
Posts: 250
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Hmmm, I thought I was very polite.
__________________
Dennis
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 10-06-2005, 09:40 PM
Derek69SS's Avatar
Derek69SS Derek69SS is offline
Supporting Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Dexter, MN
Posts: 963
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis68
Derek, you are going to need at least a 7/8" bar up front, the 700# just aren't enough by themselves.
I figured on running the stock 15/16" bar, but the AFCO lowers don't have any place for the end link to go. I thought I'd give it a try w/o a bar first before I go welding something to my shiny new arms.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 67 Camino
I outta here.
Stick around, this really is a great place to learn, and an awesome place to hang out. The commeraderie is incredible on this site, and the cars... all I can say is "WOW"

There are a lot of opinions when it comes to anything technical, especially if there is more than one way to achieve something. With something as subjective as ride-quality, there will always be differing opinions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis68
Hmmm, I thought I was very polite.
You were a little rough on the fella. You offer good advice (I hope! because I've taken a lot of it ), but in a "don't sugar-coat it" sort of way
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 10-06-2005, 09:42 PM
Mean 69 Mean 69 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Carlsbad, CA
Posts: 375
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Well, Den, I thought you were too, didn't see anything abrasive?

Just keep in mind, one spring rating for a given platform is not likely going to give the same response in a differnt platform, i.e. comparing a Chevelle to a Miata, Camaro, Mustang, etc. In all cases, the motion ratio of the various suspension designs will come into play, what really matters is what is happening at the wheel itself (wheel rate).

Quote:
I'm putting solid bushings on all 16 control-arm locations
This statement caught my eye. Not a good thing for basically any street suspension, but CERTAINLY not a converging four link, like the early Chevelles, later model Mustangs, etc. These systems depend upon bushing compliance (flex, compression, whatever you want to call it) to allow the suspension to roll. Without bushing compliance, the system will look for something else to flex, it "has" to, and the "else" is comprised of the chassis, differential housing, control arms, and everything else in between.

A four link sytem, whether it is a converging tyoe (Chevelle system), or a parallel/less converging setup, is over-constrained mechanically. Period. The only reason they work in roll, in the real world, is because something flexes in the system (again, it might be chassis, control arms, most likely bushings if they are not solid rod ends).

Mark
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 10-06-2005, 09:45 PM
Marcus SC&C's Avatar
Marcus SC&C Marcus SC&C is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: S.E. PA.
Posts: 169
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Flat black, we`ve done a lot of R&D on A bodys over the years. A simple combo we`ve had good results from starts with our Street Comp Stage 2 package. The A body stock geometry is pretty lousy and it has a lot of bumpsteer. The Stg.2 revises the geometry to be more in line with what you`d get on a modern performance car,improves the factory bumpsteer about 85%,which makes the car nicer and easier to drive hard and lowers the car about 3/4". Run this with a stock size front bar (you won`t need a big "band aid bar") and stock rear bar. With a set of Eibach lowering springs all the way around you`ll have about 2" of drop front and 1.5" or so rear. Finish it off with a really good set of shocks and you have a really nice driving car that handles very well and has just a little understeer to keep you out of trouble. Marcus SC&C
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 10-06-2005, 09:53 PM
Derek69SS's Avatar
Derek69SS Derek69SS is offline
Supporting Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Dexter, MN
Posts: 963
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Mean 69, I should clarify. My rear suspension will be all rod-end spherical bearings from wolfe racecraft, not solid "bushings". My front (already have the parts, so no turning back) will consist of AFCO lowers with rod-ends and SPC Adjustable uppers with solid bushings.

I really don't think the front will be much, if any, harsher than using delrin bushings. In the rear, I currently have all poly, and well, it's horrible to put it lightly. I truly believe it will ride better when i'm done than it does now with the poly rear bushings.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 10-10-2005, 10:10 PM
KAA's Avatar
KAA KAA is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 252
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 67 Camino
I outta here. Go blow smoke up someone elses ass.
That's your first post on this site?? Sheesh.
__________________
Keith

'70 El Camino SS L78 396 - It's back!
Lateral-g Feature
Chevy High Performance Feature

'09 Viper SRT-10X
Car Craft 2009 RSE Winner
Car Craft Feature
NARRA Road America TTU Record Holder
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 10-10-2005, 10:22 PM
FlatBlack4Life FlatBlack4Life is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: WIchita, KS
Posts: 33
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus SC&C
Flat black, we`ve done a lot of R&D on A bodys over the years. A simple combo we`ve had good results from starts with our Street Comp Stage 2 package. The A body stock geometry is pretty lousy and it has a lot of bumpsteer. The Stg.2 revises the geometry to be more in line with what you`d get on a modern performance car,improves the factory bumpsteer about 85%,which makes the car nicer and easier to drive hard and lowers the car about 3/4". Run this with a stock size front bar (you won`t need a big "band aid bar") and stock rear bar. With a set of Eibach lowering springs all the way around you`ll have about 2" of drop front and 1.5" or so rear. Finish it off with a really good set of shocks and you have a really nice driving car that handles very well and has just a little understeer to keep you out of trouble. Marcus SC&C
Hey, thanks to all you guys for your advice. Just reading this thread, I"ve learned quite a bit I didn't know. And Marcus, this was kinda just what I was looking for.....thanks man.....
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 10-10-2005, 11:18 PM
Marcus SC&C's Avatar
Marcus SC&C Marcus SC&C is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: S.E. PA.
Posts: 169
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

No sweat. Marcus SC&C
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:30 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net