Need some help from the pros: aligning front sheetmetal

[almcbri]

I did a little work on my car today and decided to try and start on installing the front sheetmetal on my 68. My front fenders are reproductions as well as the fender extentions, valance, and cowl hood. Going into this thing I figured I would be doing some bodywork to get these panels to fit right, but the fenders seem to be way off.

How do you guys add metal, shave off metal. There is a pretty big and un-even gap running up the edge by the door. My doors are aligned and fit good. I am comfortable enough with a mig to add metal to the edge and grind down. What tips do you guys have when installing this stuff? I have left everything loose to make adjustments also. I need the A-Z elementary front end sheet metal alignment guide!!

One thing I had a problem with was the top of the fender (the part closest to the pillar) was already butted against the bottom of the pillar, so the fender couldn't slide closer to fill the gap between the door and the fender.

The bodyline at the base of the door isn't even close on the fender! Is this common? Maybe I need to look at a new set of fenders?

[Musclerodz]

you need to shim the bottom of the fender to pull the body lines down. Door skin looks like it will need metal added since the curve does not look true. May be a different story in person, but that is what I see in the pic

[Mrfixit]

Yeah. Be there, done that.

First thing -- make sure that your subframe is aligned. Use the dowel locating holes then double check to make sure it's square.

Next -- Move your jack stands toward the front of the subframe. If you have an old engine block and some iron heads, install them to add weight to the front end. I've heard that the door/alignment can change is you add the install the motor later.

Install the fender without the radiator support and use shims to gap the door/fender gap. Don't install the bolt on the firewall. Just the upper bolt, lower rear bolts, and door jamb. I found this sequence worked best for me: Bottom rear, top, bottom front, then door jamb. Install all four of the bolts very loosely and then shim and tighten.

Use a straight edge to make sure that the bottom of the fender and the rocker panels line up. This also pulls the gap closer.

Once you're satisfied that the gap is as even as possible, make sure the rear bolts are tight then install the radiator support.

You mentioned that the top of the fender is up against the A pillar. That was similar to my fenders. Once I had the rear of the fenders bolted in place, I use a crow bar to gently bend (or lift) that area up and away. Once you install the cowl, you may need to lift the inside edge the same way to match the top of the cowl.

To make the gap perfect, you may need to add filler rod to the leading edge of the doors. It's not as hard as it sounds, just weld slowly to prevent warping and grind slowly until you get a consistent gap.

Once you're satisfied, mark or bag all you shims so you know EXACTLY where each on belongs (assuming that you'll be removing the fenders to paint).

I encourage you to find a sequence that works best for you and write it down. That way, if you disassemble the front sheet metal for an extended period of time, you'll know exactly how to put it back. If you use a different sequence, chances are the gap will turn out differently. (trust me )

I hope this helps,

[Novelli]

Getting your front clip aligned can take alot of time. We always end up welding the leading edges of the doors and fenders. I always cross mesure the front end before I do anything. If the radiator support is shifted to the left or right it can do all kinds of funny stuff to your door gaps! Make sure to fit your hood at the same time. I like to get my gaps as tight as I can, but make sure you are not going to have any interference after you start piling on primer, paint and clear. You will spend alot of time filing and fitting these gaps, but it makes a big difference in the finished product. Take your time on it and plan on it taking a good amount of hours, If you have any questions give us a call at the shop. Post some pics when it is finished! Good Luck!

Mario Novelli
Novelli Rod And Custom

[almcbri]

Thanks for the replies.

One other question I was wondering, can I use a mig to add metal to the doors or will I need to tig w/ filler rod? All we have is a miller matic mig.

I will keep you guys updated.

[dhutton]

Originally Posted by almcbri

Thanks for the replies.

One other question I was wondering, can I use a mig to add metal to the doors or will I need to tig w/ filler rod? All we have is a miller matic mig.

I will keep you guys updated.

Use a mig to weld 1/8" steel rod to the door and fender edges.

Don