1970 Camaro RS Operation Budget LSx

[Leadfoot1]

About your leaks. I noticed you seem to be using a mix of standard hardware store copper fittings and AN parts with the log (where you seem to be having have all your problems). I'm not sure, but arent the copper parts a 45 degree taper vs the AN stuff being 37? Would that not be a possibility that incompatibility would lead to leaks?

Just a tought, and i'm with '65 on the pics, Weeeery nice, even showed 'em to the wife to be!

Lead.

Just found this ; (Last phrase at bottom if you wanna save 4 minutes lol!!)

The AN thread is a particular type of fitting used to connect flexible hoses and rigid metal tubing that carry fluid. It is a US military-derived specification that dates back to World War Two and stems from a joint standard agreed upon by the Army and Navy, hence AN. When the Air Force became its own service in 1947 the AN designation came to reprisent Air Force and Navy. Some aftermarket automotive fitting manufacturers sometimes still mistakenly referred to it as "Army-Navy".

AN sizes range from -2 (dash two) to -32 in irregular steps, with each step equating to the OD (outside diameter) of the tubing in 1/16" increments. Therefore, a -8 AN size would be equal to 1/2" OD tube (8 x 1/16 = 1/2). However, this system does not specify the ID (inside diameter) of the tubing because the tube wall can vary in thickness. Each AN size also uses its own standard thread size.

AN fittings are a flare fitting, using 37° flared tubing to form a metal-metal seal. They are similar to other 37° flared fittings, such as JIC, which is their industrial variant. The two are interchangeable in theory, though this is typically not recommended due to the exacting specifications and demands of the aerospace industry. The differences between them relate to thread class and shape (how tight a fit the threads are), and the metals used.

Note that 37° AN and 45° SAE fittings and tooling are not interchangeable due to the different flaring angles. Mixing them can cause leakage at the flare.

[1970camaroRS]

Originally Posted by 65_LS1_T56

You should consider professional photography! Those are awesome pics

Stupid fuel pump....

As a matter of fact....that is what I do on the side. Here's a GTO I shot earlier this year:

http://s1046.photobucket.com/albums/...y/Jaime%20GTO/

I also do portraits, but mostly trying to get work from airplane magazines.

[Vegas69]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like you are using a 90gph, 5 micron filter, on a pump that flows 140gph and needs a minimum of a 40 micron pre-filter. It also looks like it's in a spot that gets wet on a regular basis.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Fram-Autolite/...45053/10002/-1
If this is indeed the filter you are using, your new pump will suffer the same fate.

[1970camaroRS]

Originally Posted by Vegas69

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like you are using a 90gph, 5 micron filter, on a pump that flows 140gph and needs a minimum of a 40 micron pre-filter. It also looks like it's in a spot that gets wet on a regular basis.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Fram-Autolite/...45053/10002/-1
If this is indeed the filter you are using, your new pump will suffer the same fate.

Yes, that filter will be replaced soon.

[1970camaroRS]

All done for the night. Too tired to move forward.

Fixed all of the leaks. Two of the fittings in the fuel log were finger tight, so that had a lot to do with it. Tefloned all of the NPT fittings and that was that.

Got the electric fuel pressure guage working. I will get pictures of that later. Found that the sendor wasn't getting ground through the fuel fitting it was in. Made a ground strap, grabbed a couple of washers and sandwhiched the terminal end between the fitting and the sendor. Viola, pressure guage works. Only 4psi at the moment, but I will adjust that later.

Disconnected the fuel pump relay ground and started wiring in a on/off toggle switch. (12v switched plus toggled ground). This also allowed me to work on the electrical system without the pump running.

Wired in another relay and breaker for the ignition. Verified there was 12v going to the coil packs. Figured, "hey...there's enough fuel still in the fuel bowls to fire this thing off...". Cranked it over and....nothing. Pulled a plug wire and no spark. Must not be getting a signal from one of the sensors. I will have to figure that out later next week. I have a usb to serial adaptor coming in the mail and I will use the MSD software to see what's happening. No work tommorrow, the McGrew family heads to the Zoo for the day!

[1970camaroRS]

CAR GOES VROOOM!

Got to thinking about the 12v switched source I was using to power my ignition and fuel pump relays. Could I have picked a source that went to 0 volts while cranking? Hooked up the old volt meter and cranked...sure enough, from 12v to 0 while cranking! Ok, new 12v source needed. Stole the one I was using for my electric fan...same issue. Not a problem for the fan though. Actually want that to quit running while cranking.

So, new approach. Wired 12 volts directly to the ignition and fuel pump relays and made the grounds switched. Well, I planned to make the fuel pump switched earlier, so what's one more toggle switch in my console going to hurt? So, I made up a temp wire to run around into the cabin to ground the ignition relay. Grounded the fuel pump relay long enough to run the pump and fill the fuel bowls. Held the ignition relay ground to a screw in the cabin..pumped the gas and cranked.

Sputter...sputter...sputter.

Ok! Now we're getting somewhere. More fuel. Sputter. More fuel.

VROOOOOM.

I immediately let go of the ground to the ignition and the engine stopped. All is well in my world tonight.