1969 Camaro L99/6l80 swap Q&A

[elaml123]

Hello Everyone,

So i recently picked up an L99 mated with a 6l80 with approx 66k for what i feel is a real good deal($3600) I know there is alot of information out there on the swaps but i am gonna be honest it is too much information to sort through and some of it is very confusing not to mention the majority is on 6sp manual transmissions. So what i wanna do is create a check list on what i need to do to make this swap happen on a friendly budget.

This is what i got a 1969 Camaro with a 383 sbc/350 trans,10 bolt eaton posi 3.73 gears with moser axles, i got caltracs split leaf and traction bars in the rear,rebuilt original front suspension with energy bushings along with qa1 adjustable coil over shocks, brakes i went with c6 corvette brakes all around. Car still has the original Subframe with aluminum mounting bushings.

Questions:
Block Decoding--block casting number reads 12621766 heads read 823 my question block decodes as ls9 is this correct? From my understanding its an LS9 Block with L99 internals am i wrong?

Engine/Trans swap(Budget Friendly)-
1- What is the best budget friendly kit to make the swap? I know i may need to notch the frame if so what do i need to notch? keep in mind that i prefer to buy something if i am going to be having issues in the future.
2- Do i need to cut the floor to make the trans fit? If so how much and what the easiest way?(images would be great)
3- Shifter whats the best shifter(budget friendly) to use and any issues with mounting it/installing it?
4-Trans crossmember-- Better to build your own or buy one? Any issues with exhaust clearance.
5-Oil Pan- Do i need to replace due to clearance issues or sitting too low or just notch the frame?(this applies to motor and trans pan)
6- Do i need to replace my steering box? or what is the best option as i read there may be clearance issues with the headers?
7- Wiring--- is it cheaper to get a standalone system and flash the ECU? or buy the fitech LS kit i was leaning more towards the fitech setup. I currently do not have the ECU have only the engine harness not sure if i need anything else.
8- Whether i go with original harness or fitech do i still have to reprogram the trans? and can that be done without going to a shop assuming its something basic?

I have a ton more questions but i wanted to cover the main points of getting the engine/trans inside the car and what needed to be modified to make it happen. I would PREFER the opinion from people who have done the swap versus just thoughts as this would make it a good reference point. I am not a master builder but i know my way around a car so i can fabricate minor things(notch,weld etc), i hope you guys can help!!!!

[Schwartz Perf]

My thoughts are in bold text below.

Originally Posted by elaml123

Hello Everyone,

So i recently picked up an L99 mated with a 6l80 with approx 66k

This is what i got a 1969 Camaro with a 383 sbc/350 trans,10 bolt eaton posi 3.73 gears with moser axles, i got caltracs split leaf and traction bars in the rear,rebuilt original front suspension with energy bushings along with qa1 adjustable coil over shocks, brakes i went with c6 corvette brakes all around. Car still has the original Subframe with aluminum mounting bushings.

Questions:
Block Decoding--block casting number reads 12621766 heads read 823 my question block decodes as ls9 is this correct? From my understanding its an LS9 Block with L99 internals am i wrong?
You read to much internet. It's just a 6.2L block, perhaps GM used the same casting for all 6.2L's.

Engine/Trans swap(Budget Friendly)-
1- What is the best budget friendly kit to make the swap? I know i may need to notch the frame if so what do i need to notch? keep in mind that i prefer to buy something if i am going to be having issues in the future.
In my opinion the Holley/Hooker stuff is the best to go with; not too pricey, and easy. It all works together.

2- Do i need to cut the floor to make the trans fit? If so how much and what the easiest way?(images would be great)
Absolutely. I don't have pics, but the 6L transmissions are big! You will also need some type of slip driveshaft, or possibly get away with a CV style. This won't be cheap.

3- Shifter whats the best shifter(budget friendly) to use and any issues with mounting it/installing it?
Shiftworks, uses the stock shifter. http://www.jegs.com/i/Shiftworks/845/SC2614/10002/-1

4-Trans crossmember-- Better to build your own or buy one? Any issues with exhaust clearance.
I am inexperienced with trans crossmembers on the 6L80's for your application. Might need to build one.

5-Oil Pan- Do i need to replace due to clearance issues or sitting too low or just notch the frame?(this applies to motor and trans pan)
Yes you'll need a Holley 302-2 or 302-3.

6- Do i need to replace my steering box? or what is the best option as i read there may be clearance issues with the headers?
No. Hooker, Ultimate Headers, and others have LS swap headers available.

7- Wiring--- is it cheaper to get a standalone system and flash the ECU? or buy the fitech LS kit i was leaning more towards the fitech setup. I currently do not have the ECU have only the engine harness not sure if i need anything else.
It'll be easier for you to get a new harness. It will be more expensive too. PSI Conversion is the least expensive.

8- Whether i go with original harness or fitech do i still have to reprogram the trans? and can that be done without going to a shop assuming its something basic?
The 6L80e doesn't have a standalone. So you'll need an EFI system that is capable of controlling a 6L80e. Easier to go with an OE computer.

You did not ask anything about the front accessory drive. To use the stock AC compressor you will have some clearance issues I believe with the subframe.
https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/prod...oducts_id=1757 - this is a possible solution to use a Sanden AC compressor, nicely compatible with a Vintage Air system.
Also you'll need a fuel pump. Easiest is the Tanks Inc tank & pump for approx $500. Or you can run an inline pump with the stock tank, which isn't ideal since the tank doesnt have any baffling. LS Corvette filter/regulator is the cheapest fuel regulation.

By the way, we sell all this stuff, so if you get it figured out, im happy to work up a quote.


-Dale

[dhutton]

That is a lot of questions.

I can tell you what I learned putting an LSA and 6L90E in my 69 Camaro.

I recommend Speartech for the harness etc since they understand what it takes to program a 6L transmission. This is not somewhere you want to try to save money. They can also supply you with a shifter which enables manual shifting.

You will likely want to use the G8 transmission pan to improve ground clearance.

I raised the tunnel roughly 1.5 inches.

I used an Art Morrison subframe so there is not much more I can offer you except that the engine swap is no different than any other LS swap. The Holley system is well engineered imho. Mounts, headers, accessory drive, and trans crossmember all work together on a stock subframe.

Don

[elaml123]

Thanks Dale and Don, i would of replied earlier but i have been extremely busy at work.So far what i have gotten from both of you is go with Holley/Hooker for LS brackets and headers along with oil pan.I dont have the original shifter on the car i currently have a B&M Star shifter. In regards to wiring from my knowledge the Fitech Ultimate LS Supplies an ECU and Transmission controller plus you get a better intake manifold and bigger throttle body but thats why i am here to try to get some input. As i said before i dont have the original ECU and the only Harness i have is the one on the engine not sure if i need anything else or if i need the other side of the harness???

AS for brackets for the accessories(steering pump,alternator,etc) i was hoping to keep them all in the same place in order to save some money unless its a MUST for me to relocate them i am wanting to install a vintage air system not sure if i need to relocate the ac compressor and/or alternator. I was trying to save a few buck not having to but the bracket so if i have to notch something i ope someone could chime in on this.

Sooo notching the frame the fit the original pan is out of the question correct? You guys Answered alot of the questions as for the fuel system any other alternatives i have and old style original tank not sure if i can reuse it in any way and do i need a fuel return line or is it recommended? Thanks!!!

[dhutton]

You are on the wrong track here. Fitech cannot control a 6L transmission. Again, Speartech is your best option imho. They will supply the harness, ECM and program your transmission controller.

Don

[Schwartz Perf]

The pan is usually what needs the notching, to clear the steering linkage. Subframe may need it too, if the front of the pan is too deep.

I'm unsure what this swap is worth to you.. if you plan to have it be more valuable, and be reliable.. or just want to get it on the road for as little cost as possible.

You can certainly use the factory fuel tank, and run the Corvette fuel filter/regulator unit I mentioned in my original post- it will require a return line but it can be short if you mount the filter/regulator at the back of the car.

From personal experience, it's not ideal to run the factory tank, because there is no baffles, and if you run under 3/8 tank and go on a sweeping turn, it may starve for fuel & stumble/lean out.
If you're good about keeping it above 1/2 tank then you shouldn't have an issue with just driving.

-Dale

[elaml123]

Cool i just checked out the Speartech site and saw what they had to offer not bad for the complete setup for about $1600
Do you know if i would need to build a base for the gas pedal ?
I am hoping to swap out the cam would you recommend the DOD delete and VVT?? Or just get a compatible cam?
As for engine brackets im want to install the vintage air would you recommend relocating the Compressor or leaving it where it is and notch the frame the same for the alternator?

So far what im getting is the Speartech Harness full setup for me, holley/hooker brackets for engine/trans install and headers, custom crossmember,and of course the dreaded floor tunnel cutout,fuel tank replace or modify, still waiting on some feedback for the alternator and ac compressor. As for the shifter are you guys using the original shifter off the 69 camaro or B&M??? i got rid of alot of the original parts i had several years ago. I want this to be a reliable swap i dont want to spend time and money twice on the same thing(learned this the hard way) but i also dont want to break the bank i know this swap wont happen overnight but if i can prepare for it as much as i can it be fun and somewhat easy

[rustomatic]

The easiest route is to find a computer that went with the vehicle the engine and transmission came from. There are zillions on eBay, usually. Call junkyards (the same applies to frontal accessories, if you do not have them). Once you've got this, there are far cheaper ways of getting a harness done than through the most popular vendors (again, eBay). A simple computer reflash (for anti theft and other items) shouldn't cost more than $150.00; DOD and VVT (in the computer, not the engine) removal will likely cost more, because it takes an extra five minutes in HP Tuners. If you just get the thing running within stock parameters/with stock equipment, you'll have far fewer problems than you would by trying to do a cam swap now. The shifter you have will work fine for getting you through PRND--it's the brackets and linkage that may require fiddling.

Spending a few weeks doing research will help greatly--there's not a ton of info out there on Gen IV swaps, but most of what applies to Gen IIIs applies to Gen IVs, short of the 6l80/90, which pretty much nobody uses (I do, and it works great). It is easy enough to make work, however. Do not pay anyone to do a separate flash on your transmission controller (which is in the transmission) . . .

[elaml123]

This is what i have on the engine....... i just picked up the engine cover today and radiator which the guy tossed in on the deal. He is asking if i want the center console not sure if the new stand alone harness can be wired to work with the original gauges on the console.

As for the shifter i want to be able to able to shift down to lower gears if ever needed not sure if this is possible with other shifters or original shifter and the guy who sold me the engine said he may sell me the original shifter. As for the wiring its not my strong suit i hate dealing with wiring unless its something simple but if i have to troubleshoot,modify and test i think its best to leave it to the pros, unless its simple........

As for the DOD and VVT, what do you guys recommend remove it or leave it and would i have to make a cam swap.

As for the brackets do you guys recommend relocating the AC compressor and alternator?But so far i feel confident with getting the engine and trans in the car.

[Ketzer]

Lokar makes an aftermarket shifter that is 6L compatible if you wanted something other than the GM one.

Dennys Driveshafts can make the driveshaft and he was extremely helpful and reasonable...


Jeff-