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Old 01-08-2020, 01:39 PM
alex n alex n is offline
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Originally Posted by Goosesdad View Post
Thanks! No real voodoo on my end....and to be clear, those latest pics of the bottom of the car have had a bit of body filler to the welds. Did that as much to seal up any small pinholes but it definitely smoothed out some of those areas for looks also. I used Evercoat Everglass, as it's waterproof so it's a good compliment to the epoxy primer for sealing up the under carriage. Raptor coming in the next month or so.

Since I'm less than an expert at making pretty welds and I only use my MIG because I end up needing 5 beers after trying to TIG!.... I've definitely had my share of grinding welds to clean them up. Of course, being careful not to impact the strength of the weld just for aesthetics!

By the way - I'm 1000% sure someone here will have some better/additional advice.... please don't hesitate to chime in here, no issues with me!

When grinding sheet metal welds, I use a 3"x3/16" 3M Green Corps grinding wheel on a straight die grinder. I'm embarrassed that I don't remember the person here on LatG that recommended these to me..but they are awesome for the first level of grind, that person made my life better! Ha. I do that first grind parallel to the bead to keep the wheel from touching down on the base metal. Once it's close, I switch to either a flap disk on an electric grinder or 2", 36 grit disk on an air angle grinder.

For cleaning up welds in corners or wherever, I just use a carbide burr on the same straight die grinder. And finish it up with either the 2" disk and/or cartridge rolls. None of the local shops here in Boise carry those, so I get them online from Empire Abrasives. Don't think there is LatG sponsor that carries them?

Hope that helps a little.
I think that might have been me, those grinding wheels are awesome
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Old 01-08-2020, 05:17 PM
AMPZberlinetta AMPZberlinetta is offline
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Thanks for the input on the different tools you are using! I just ordered a couple a those things to try them out. On the metal it almost looks like you have a sanded finish/ has some tooth to it. Is that from the grinding discs or to you go back and sand the metal smooth an orbital or something? Also while making all the panels, are you using a bead roller to stamp in all those strengthening creases? And i promise ill stop asking questions

Last edited by AMPZberlinetta; 01-08-2020 at 05:43 PM.
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Old 01-09-2020, 07:43 PM
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Goosesdad Goosesdad is offline
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I think that might have been me, those grinding wheels are awesome
Yep...thanks Alex!!!
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Old 01-12-2020, 11:01 AM
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Gmachine1911 Gmachine1911 is offline
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”Thanks! No real voodoo on my end....and to be clear, those latest pics of the bottom of the car have had a bit of body filler to the welds. Did that as much to seal up any small pinholes but it definitely smoothed out some of those areas for looks also. I used Evercoat Everglass, as it's waterproof so it's a good compliment to the epoxy primer for sealing up the under carriage. Raptor coming in the next month or so.”


So do you use a seam sealer before the Everglass or does the Everglass work to seal the seam and smooth it out? Thanks!
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Old 01-12-2020, 11:48 AM
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Goosesdad Goosesdad is offline
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Originally Posted by Gmachine1911 View Post
”Thanks! No real voodoo on my end....and to be clear, those latest pics of the bottom of the car have had a bit of body filler to the welds. Did that as much to seal up any small pinholes but it definitely smoothed out some of those areas for looks also. I used Evercoat Everglass, as it's waterproof so it's a good compliment to the epoxy primer for sealing up the under carriage. Raptor coming in the next month or so.”


So do you use a seam sealer before the Everglass or does the Everglass work to seal the seam and smooth it out? Thanks!
For these particular areas, the 'glass seals just fine....just mostly little pinholes. Adding a touch up epoxy coat on top of that, especially where sanding/scuffing through to bare metal.

For areas that are a true seam (like, trunk floor to the rear tail pain), I'll use seal sealer then a shot of epoxy on top of that and then the Raptor. Good tip is to run masking tape on both sides of the seam, then spread the sealer, then peel up the tape in the middle of the cure cycle....makes for a clean line.

Probably a bit excessive here, but I'm fortunate to have a good friend that is a high-end paint dude and he's been kind enough to guide me through the little but important details, thus I'm taking his advice 100%. Wish I had the $$ to have him do it!!!
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