Steering Box Ratio Options

[ScotI]

Researching a new steering box for an early A/g-body (1978) that's street driven.

Front set-up parts include:
SPC upper a-arms
Speedtech Lowers
Tall BJ's
Hotchkis 1" drop/600# coils
Ridetech single adjustable front shocks
36mm GM WS6/IROC hollow sway bar
18x8 w/245-40-18's

Options I've found for tightening up the ratio are 12.7:1 & 10:1. The 12.7's are listed @ 3-4 turns lock-to-lock & 10:1's @ 2.5 LtL.

Are the 10:1 boxes too much (sensitive) for the street?
Thoughts?

[Pro Touring Store]

In my opinion, they're not too quick for the street.. But, they are quicker than anything else you've driven.
If your roads have a lot of crowns and your car hunts on them, the 10:1 may be a little harder to manage than others.. but just like anything, you'd get used to it.

If you're only driving it on the street then there's no point though.. Stick with the 12.7.

-Dale

[ScotI]

Originally Posted by Pro Touring Store

In my opinion, they're not too quick for the street.. But, they are quicker than anything else you've driven.
If your roads have a lot of crowns and your car hunts on them, the 10:1 may be a little harder to manage than others.. but just like anything, you'd get used to it.

If you're only driving it on the street then there's no point though.. Stick with the 12.7.

-Dale

Well, it hasn't been cone hunting but it was also an original 48k mile car before the changes. The front suspension parts are getting updated/changed further (second round) & the steering box is leaking badly so it's prime for replacing while making the changes. The factory ratio is like a 17:1 so the decision is which one better compliments the updated parts.

I have a Squarebody crew-cab dually that takes corners like a 1/2 ton truck (lowered; -.5 Camber; 6.9/7.4 Caster; RedHead steering box; 4-bar rear set-up w/Spohn spherical joints) so I do appreciate 'spirited' drives regardless of the vehicle I'm piloting.

Several have suggested the 12.7 boxes because some Monte SS's, 442's, & GN's used them from GM but that was with OE suspension set-ups & specs. I figure my non-stock specs & parts combo might benefit from the 10:1 but don't have much experience w/them.

[Pro Touring Store]

Originally Posted by ScotI

Well, it hasn't been cone hunting but it was also an original 48k mile car before the changes. The front suspension parts are getting updated/changed further (second round) & the steering box is leaking badly so it's prime for replacing while making the changes. The factory ratio is like a 17:1 so the decision is which one better compliments the updated parts.

I have a Squarebody crew-cab dually that takes corners like a 1/2 ton truck (lowered; -.5 Camber; 6.9/7.4 Caster; RedHead steering box; 4-bar rear set-up w/Spohn spherical joints) so I do appreciate 'spirited' drives regardless of the vehicle I'm piloting.

Several have suggested the 12.7 boxes because some Monte SS's, 442's, & GN's used them from GM but that was with OE suspension set-ups & specs. I figure my non-stock specs & parts combo might benefit from the 10:1 but don't have much experience w/them.

Sounds like you sold yourself on 10:1 despite other peoples suggestions? Lol.
You won't benefit from a 10:1 is what I'm getting at. Despite your modifications. Autocross / tight turns are where you benefit from a 10:1 most. Street driving you may appreciate a 12.7 more since it'll be less twitchy / easier to recover.

[68454RS]

The real question is..... Where are you going to find a 10:1 box?

[ScotI]

Originally Posted by 68454RS

The real question is..... Where are you going to find a 10:1 box?

Lares.

[ScotI]

Originally Posted by Pro Touring Store

Sounds like you sold yourself on 10:1 despite other peoples suggestions? Lol.
You won't benefit from a 10:1 is what I'm getting at. Despite your modifications. Autocross / tight turns are where you benefit from a 10:1 most. Street driving you may appreciate a 12.7 more since it'll be less twitchy / easier to recover.

Wrong. I research stuff before making decisions though. The only thing I "sold myself" on was asking 'why?'.

The guys saying they run the 12.7 boxes are also running stock a-arms, stock alignment specs, stock spindle geometry, & using a GM spec'd box. That might be the 'go to' for a MCSS/442/GN for the coding but that coding doesn't mean much on a '78 Malibu that was never intended to be more than A-B transportation.

Since going through the aftermarket, the 10:1 is also available. I figured asking others w/performance/handling experience for insight would be the right move.
The statement in RED was info that makes sense. Thanks.

[Corey R.]

I have a 12.7 box from TurnOne and while it’s is a high quality piece, I find myself having to really pay attention at highway speeds on longer early morning cars & coffee trips. Any bit of steering wheel movement translates into veering onto the dotted line. It would grow tiresome on a 1000+ mile Pro Touring trip.

I wish I would have stayed with my stock box, as it didn’t leak and I’m not into autocrossing where I need quick turning at low speeds. I read too much online and figured it was a obligatory upgrade to my LS swap.

[SSLance]

I've kicked the idea around of going to a 10:1 box when I replace mine but frankly, I don't think I will. I've grown very accustomed to the 12.7:1 and it does just fine for me...around cones and on the highway.

[UMI Tech]

We have 8:1 on the UMI autocross cars and 12.7:1 on our Power Tour car. Having experience with both, I'm really itching to split the difference and try 10:1 on the street. I think it would be pretty awesome if you're into the quick steering thing. The 8:1 is pretty whack until you get used to it.