Need help with dry sump

[jcal87]

The shop I’m working with recommends a 5 stage daily dry sump, but the engine builder (Wegner) says to go with three stage as the 5 stage is more for purely racing and can actually put more stress on the engine components than a 3 stage. The car will be auto crossing and getting groceries. The motor will be an aluminum 427 with a harrop blower. Very high hp engine.

Please let me know yalls thoughts as well as where if you have done it mounted your oil tanks on a first gen Camaro.


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[CHJNCSU]

Dry sump pumps have one pressure section and the rest are scavenge sections. While it takes more power to run more stections, it is unlikely to cause "more stress on the engine". pumps are low power consumers (~5 bhp to 10 bhp). The additional sections are used to scavenge or recover oil from the engine. Generally this is from the pan but can also be turbo(s) or lifter valley. Additional scavenge sections will generate greater vacuum in the sump. This means engine seals must be set up for negative sump pressure. Vacuum in the sump can be a big help to ring seal. Usually the engine builder picks the pump as they are responsible for the engine. More sections is more cost and plumbing. The tank is important as well. It is important that the oil pick up in the tank never becomes uncovered in high G. It also separates the vapor or gases for the oil. Again working with the engine builder is a good idea. Look to BMRS for plumbing if you need a source. Good luck with your project!

[CJD Automotive]

If the intended applications is really only street and autoX, then Wegner is probably correct that 2 scavenge sections is enough. If you were to get into extended boost events, (straight aways on track), then more stages would be helpful to keep the crankcase pressure close to 0.

A Daily 5 stage can pull the crank case to over 20" of vacuum. That's too much. The 3 stage is probably considerably less, which might be another reason they are recommending it. Aside from the front and rear crank seals needing to be for a dry sump application, you'll need a vacuum regulator on the crank case. Peterson sells these. They allow you set the max vacuum pressure. You should also consider a positive pressure blow off. Peterson sells these as well. If the crank case pressure goes over a preset pressure, it opens up to relieve it. These have a breather on them, but can be plumbed to a catch can or back to the tank.

The other thing to consider, it it's really recommended to have piston oilers on a street/track car. The dry sump pump pulls the crank case into a vacuum, sucking out not just the oil, but all the oil vapor mist. This oil mist is pretty critical to cylinder wall/wrist pin lubrication. The jet allows the oil to lube these areas continuously while still maintaining a negative pressure.

[CHJNCSU]

I would suggest that the piston oil jets are primarily for piston cooling and have a by product of cylinder wall oiling. If the engine is under high load (WOT) for long periods the piston will soften (age) with time at temperature. The cylinder walls/pistons/rings should be sufficiently lubricated without pistons coolers as there is sufficient flow out flow from the bearings to lubricate these components. Cooling jets are never a bad idea but you should increase the size of the pressure section to compensate for the additional oil flow. All this is best for the engine builder to decide.