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  #11  
Old 12-21-2006, 11:06 PM
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jeff hanson jeff hanson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XcYZ
Jeff, what did you use for headers? I know ATS has a bitchin set of 1 3/4 stepped to 1 7/8 headers with merge collectors that will clear the steering gear.
I used Hookers 1 3/4, without the stock steering box they fit great. I think of this car as a "no expense spared" project. I guess that would be one of the things that I did with cost in mind. After talking to a few people about the two sets I was considering, there wasn't enough benifit for the cost difference. $600 or $2500 you be the judge? I know they're sweet, but c'mon, is it really worth $1900, I don't think so. Maybe if I was going for 1000 hp plus, but for my application, (basically stock LS7 w/ a cam) I think the 5 to 10 extra (maybe) hp is not worth it. Some people might think otherwise, but I couldn't justify it, even on this car. Sorry Tyler, oh well, what can ya do.
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  #12  
Old 12-21-2006, 11:10 PM
LT580ZX LT580ZX is offline
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Originally Posted by jeff hanson
Hey guy's, the frame is not the issue, it clears no problem. The problem is the steering link. We put in a BRP front mount rack to solve the problem. I'm sure that was way more work than the oil pan swap, but I wanted a rack in the car anyway. It all came together great with no fitment problems whatsoever with the stock pan. Yes I did, in fact, use the ATS motor mounts (and spindles too) very nice stuff. I'm sure the oil pan is just as nice! It all depends on what you want, we also had to use a front mount speedway splined sway bar. Which, again, another piece that I wanted to use anyway. Basically I wanted the DSE front sub before they offered it, so we just built one like it. Anyway, any more questions, fire away.
Thanks for coming on line Jeff. I liked your approach. It appears from the photos that you notched the cross member on the passenger side to clear the AC unit and also notched the driver side for the steering connection from the RAC. Is that true? Did you build your own steering linkage? If so, do you have any dimensional information on these modifications? I would need to have this done, including the install of the RAC (any information on this also). Do you think its still cheaper than the DSE clip. I like the DSE approach but I didn't want to spend that much and I have a hard time doing away with something that is still perfectly good. So that is why I am so interested in your approach. One last question, did you have to fabricate anything to connect your RAC to the AFX spindles since it is a front mount system?
thanks again and I appreciate the help.
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  #13  
Old 12-21-2006, 11:25 PM
LT580ZX LT580ZX is offline
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Default LS7 Install

Sorry, one last question Jeff. What were the 1 3/4 hooker headers made for that you used? (So I know what to order)thanks.
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  #14  
Old 12-21-2006, 11:42 PM
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The frame was cut for the a/c but then filled back in after realizing that we didn't need it. I'm running the S&P front drive which puts the a/c on top. The section in the frame where the u-joint meets the rack has to be cut out to clear the steering shaft/u-joint. If you go to BRP's website there's some pics there of a subframe with the mod. They give you the piece that goes in the frame to give you the proper clearence. It's basically just a piece of exhaust pipe thats bent and cut open/spread apart, but it works fine. The kit comes with billet steering arms that bolt right up to the ATS spindles. As far as cost compared to buying DSE's, the rack is around $1200, sway bar $250, front suspension $2300(for everything),$650 spindles,totaling $4400 in parts. If you do all the work yourself it would be a pretty good advantage. If you have a shop do everything, it would still, probably be less overall, but probably not low enough to not buy their setup. I don't regret, at all, what I did, but if I had to do it again, I would definetely go with there's because you also get a hydroformed frame and wider wheel options. But again, if you do the work yourself and if you dont do their front suspension, then there's a huge price difference. Good luck.
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  #15  
Old 12-22-2006, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LT580ZX
Sorry, one last question Jeff. What were the 1 3/4 hooker headers made for that you used? (So I know what to order)thanks.
The headers are hooker pn 2288(double check that number) for an LS1 but they work.
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  #16  
Old 12-22-2006, 01:13 AM
Bowtieracing Bowtieracing is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff hanson
Hey guy's, the frame is not the issue, it clears no problem. The problem is the steering link. We put in a BRP front mount rack to solve the problem. I'm sure that was way more work than the oil pan swap, but I wanted a rack in the car anyway. It all came together great with no fitment problems whatsoever with the stock pan. Yes I did, in fact, use the ATS motor mounts (and spindles too) very nice stuff. I'm sure the oil pan is just as nice! It all depends on what you want, we also had to use a front mount speedway splined sway bar. Which, again, another piece that I wanted to use anyway. Basically I wanted the DSE front sub before they offered it, so we just built one like it. Anyway, any more questions, fire away.

YESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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  #17  
Old 12-22-2006, 08:21 PM
LT580ZX LT580ZX is offline
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Default LS7 Install in 69 Camaro

Thanks for the great help Jeff and have a Merry Christmas. I went to the web site and learned much more. Will follow your path. thanks again.
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  #18  
Old 12-23-2006, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LT580ZX
Thanks for the great help Jeff and have a Merry Christmas. I went to the web site and learned much more. Will follow your path. thanks again.
Anytime, good luck with yours. Merry Christmas!
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