1970 GTO V3

[andrewb70]

When I originally built the car, twenty years ago, I had the foresight to install a 1/2" stainless fuel hardline that runs from the back, along the frame rail, and exits here at the front of the frame. It already had a AN-8 male fitting on the end.

I have been sourcing some of my plumbing supplies here locally from Star Performance. This PTFE hose is branded under the Red Horse brand of hoses and fittings.



Vic and I also made a little mount for the TMAP sensor that is above the Tick intercooler. This way I can datalog both air temperature and boost pressure above and below the intercooler, so I can see how well it is working.



Vic also cut out the rest of the panels to cover the firewall. I really like the overall look. It looks clean and adds a layer of heat insulations.



Back to the fuel system. I was originally going to bring the -8 hose from the frame rail, to the back of the intake and have a Y-bock and 2 -6 hoses to the rails. This was proving to be kind of a pain in the a$$, so I made my life easier...



The -8 hose from the frame rail feeds into the passenger side fuel rail.



There is a cross-over hose at the front and the rear of the driver's side fuel rail is capped off.



I also bent up a little NiCopp tube for the blow-off valve.



This is the plate that I had made earlier. These connectors will be for the injectors and coil harnesses.



Andrew

[andrewb70]

Originally Posted by CJD Automotive

Yeah, I saw that was the output, just didn't know if they were using more than one pin of the output connector to achieve that? Motec uses two output pins to provide 20 amps (the extra pin needed isn't counted towards outputs, so 8 - 20 amp outputs uses 16 pins). Just curious, like I said looks like a very affordable option. FYI, DT pins are only rated for 13 amps.

I received an answer back about this. The DT pins are rated at 13 amp @ 275°F (125°C). Under normal operating conditions, 20 amps is not a problem.

Andrew

[andrewb70]

With the fuel plumbing finished up under the hood, it was time to figure out what needed to be done in the back. I recently ordered some wiring supplies from www.milspecwiring.com, and as I browsed their website, I got suckered in by this little piece of jewelry. It is the Injector Dynamics ID750 fuel filter. I got mine with the optional Bosch Motorsports fuel pressure/temp sensor. The little Schrader valve port will be repurposed to plumb the pressure relief valve that was recommended by Carl at Vaporworx.



The DeatschWerks 5th Gen Camaro pump module that I am using has this alignment tab that is used in the OEM application to properly clock the pump. Since mine is going into a Rick's RestoMod tank, I did not need this tab, so it was cut off.



Once the tank was installed in the car, it was obvious that the access hole that was there before was not going to work.



I am also thinking that the fuel filter, flex fuel sensor, and the pressure relief valve will be plumbed inside the trunk. There is just not a lot of room under the car. I know it is "risky" (whatever that means) but that is how I am going to do it.



I got the whizzwheelofdeath out and made a new hole in the trunk. All of this will get cleaned up with a nice cover panel.



Andrew

[ScotI]

Originally Posted by andrewb70

With the fuel plumbing finished up under the hood, it was time to figure out what needed to be done in the back. I recently ordered some wiring supplies from www.milspecwiring.com, and as I browsed their website, I got suckered in by this little piece of jewelry. It is the Injector Dynamics ID750 fuel filter. I got mine with the optional Bosch Motorsports fuel pressure/temp sensor. The little Schrader valve port will be repurposed to plumb the pressure relief valve that was recommended by Carl at Vaporworx.



The DeatschWerks 5th Gen Camaro pump module that I am using has this alignment tab that is used in the OEM application to properly clock the pump. Since mine is going into a Rick's RestoMod tank, I did not need this tab, so it was cut off.



Once the tank was installed in the car, it was obvious that the access hole that was there before was not going to work.



I am also thinking that the fuel filter, flex fuel sensor, and the pressure relief valve will be plumbed inside the trunk. There is just not a lot of room under the car. I know it is "risky" (whatever that means) but that is how I am going to do it.



I got the whizzwheelofdeath out and made a new hole in the trunk. All of this will get cleaned up with a nice cover panel.



Andrew

'Faux' sub floor directly above your existing trunk floor? That way things appear 'stock' just higher to clear necessary items.

[214Chevy]

Andrew you are the man!!

[andrewb70]

I don't know how I feel about this yet, but that's what I got so far.



The fuel line comes to of the pump, under the trunk floor, through a bulkhead fitting, then to the fuel filter and the flex fuel sensor holder.



The upside to this arrangement is that servicing the fuel filter, flex fuel sensor, and the wiring would be very simple and easy.

Andrew

[andrewb70]

Today it was "drive your hotrod to work day" so I drove the Cougar to Vic's place.



I put some fabric sleeving on the fuel line that goes from the pump to the bulkhead. This is how it looks when viewed from the bottom. It looks like it is touching, but there is clearance all around that hose.



This view is from the front, looking over the top of the rear axle.



Once that was sorted, I moved to the other side where the 1/2" stainless tube terminates. The top fitting is what I had in there. It is a -AN8 to -AN6 male union.



Since the fuel like that I am using in the rear is -AN10, I needed the adapter shown at the bottom. The one that I got from Star Performance was aluminum, as they didn't have any steel ones. After discussing it with Vic, it was decided that a steel fitting would be more appropriate. So we got a -AN10, steel male weld bung, and Vic made a new fitting, using part of the old fitting.



The other thing that I decided to change was not have the flex fuel sensor holder be right after the fuel filter. Even with the filter shifted to the left as much as possible, I just don't have the linear room to mount everything and still have enough room for the hoses to routed appropriately. With the flex fuel holder gone, this is how I plan to run the hose. It will sweep gently, back under the trunk floor and turn back towards the right side, where the stainless tube is located.



The flex fuel sensor holder will be attached to the end of the tube with a -AN10 to -AN10 female union.



Andrew

[andrewb70]

I got the flex fuel sensor, but of course I got the wrong one to work with the Motion Raceworks holder...



I was missing one last fitting to complete the intercooler hoses. The inlet to the intercooler needs a 45 degree fitting in order to clear the fuel rail that is below it. I used the fabric heat shrink on top of the Earl's Super Stock hose and it looks remarkably similar to the Earl's Ultra Pro hose.



This hose makes a gentle sweep down and towards the center of the fan shroud...



Where it connects to the water pump. You can see the pump mounted to the fan shroud.



Vic took a couple of fittings and welded them together to make an adapter.



The adapter is used to mount the pressure relief valve.



Carl from VaporWorx told me this was necessary to keep the system from getting vapor locked. He told me to purchase a small Radium Engineering fuel pressure regulator and send me a special 80psi diaphragm for it.

When the car has been running for a while, then it is turned off, pressure in the feed line can build up and lock up the injectors from firing. This valve will burn the feed line once the pressure exceeds 80psi.

I also got a modern Helical exhaust valve that uses a Küster 3 pin motor. This will be controlled by the Holley Dominator ECU. Not sure why the video doesn't show...Just click the link...

http://youtu.be/MB0V4yTQj4U

Andrew

[camcojb]

Carl is a wealth of information, thanks for sharing.

[andrewb70]

Today I decided to leave the plumbing for a while and tackle one of the last big boxes that I have. As mentioned before, this car now has a complete Ridetech suspension, front and rear, and part of that package are front and rear sway bars. This is the front sway bar.



This sway bar kit is very thought out. The bushings are polyurethane, but they also include this slick Delrin bushing, which is supposed to eliminate the need for lube and is supposed to eliminate squeaks, which are so common with polyurethane bushings.



The ridge on the Delrin bushing rides inside a groove in the middle of the bushing, which keeps the bushing from sliding out.



Judging by the weight, the bar is hollow and has there bushing ends welded to both sides.



The mounting system includes some plates that move the bar about 1" forward. This is done to clear the pitman arm on the passenger side. My old swaybar used to rub a little bit against the edge of the pitman arm. You can see that now there is a solid inch of clearance.



The end links are Moog parts and also did not call for any lube.



Lastly, I also dug out the mating connectors for the bulkhead panel.



The connectors have the optional "backs" on them, so that I can fully cover the wires. The "backs" also provide addd strain relief, which is very important for all connectors.

Andrew