'71 Nova. Project "Urban Legend"

[BBC71Nova]

I'm not sure what the final outcome of this will be but I needed to get some tie-rods on the car. I ordered up some "high strength, extra thick washers" from McMaster-Carr along with some .5" longer hex flat head bolts for the steering arms. The washers measure about .2" each so I went with a stack of 2. The front bolt is the one that came with the Ridetech spindles. It just barely gets into the nylon "lock" after installing the spacers so I'll probably go ahead and replace those with the longer bolts as well. The rear bolts are the new longer ones I ordered.

The above combination achieves much needed clearance between the steering arm and the rim lip. The tie-rod itself is still only 5/16" or so from the tire. Under side loads I could see this rubbing. Adding the spacers also put the limit stops closer to the stops on the control arms thus limiting steering. Not a huge concern of mine at the moment given the tires almost get into the fender lips anyway. I need to install the swaybar to make sure nothing gets into the end-links.

Here are some before and after pics.

[BBC71Nova]

Here are some pictures of the engine mocked up. These are Lemon's headers with 2 1/8" primaries. There clear everything fine but it is tight. The steering box and header basically have to go in at the same time. That was a trick .

The headers are nice and tight with great ground clearance. The 3 bolt flanges are about 1/4" or so from the floorpan. I have raised the tailshaft of my trans about 3/4" for driveline angle reasons. That helps get the headers up nice and tight as well.

I have also confirmed they will not clear the TruTurn though without a tube being moved. At least not using a traditional tie-rod on the inside. I'm undecided on this header mod at the moment. If I do this I'm gonna go ahead and switch them to v-band clamps too.

[BBC71Nova]

So one of my bigger concerns now is ensuring I have adequate fender/inner to tire clearance. Everything clears at ride height. At half way to full-bump the tire starts to get into the fender when turned to the stops.

Visually it looked like I had positive or neutral camber. I've been told I need -1 degree at ride height. I only previously had ~1/4" of shims in place. Today I threw in some additional washers to get ~1/2" total of shims. This visually - I don't have a gauge - seemed to put a little negative camber in at ride height. The additional camber gain helped with the tire to fender clearance issue some to.

I'm still thinking I may get someone to do some sheetmetal work on those fender lips and inner fenders. With that I think I'll be ok.

I'm not thrilled about that huge stack of alignment shims. I *may* move the control arm tower over some if I go ahead and install the Chicane brackets after I tear it back apart for paint.

[BBC71Nova]

And finally here are pics of the stance. The front is actually slightly lower than this when level. The driveway slope threw it off some.

This is mocked up with the front crossmember 5" off the ground. Down at 4.5" looks much better but the oil pan would be awfully close since it will hang below the crossmember some.

The front fender lip is 24". The rear is 22".

[WSSix]

Looks great! Good luck sorting out the wheel and steering issues. At least you found it early like this.

[turnhard]

You can clamp the steering arm down heat it up and bend it in the half inch you need it to clear. That would be better than a stack of washers

[syborg tt]

Originally Posted by BBC71Nova

I'm not sure what the final outcome of this will be but I needed to get some tie-rods on the car. I ordered up some "high strength, extra thick washers" from McMaster-Carr along with some .5" longer hex flat head bolts for the steering arms. The washers measure about .2" each so I went with a stack of 2. The front bolt is the one that came with the Ridetech spindles. It just barely gets into the nylon "lock" after installing the spacers so I'll probably go ahead and replace those with the longer bolts as well. The rear bolts are the new longer ones I ordered.

The above combination achieves much needed clearance between the steering arm and the rim lip. The tie-rod itself is still only 5/16" or so from the tire. Under side loads I could see this rubbing. Adding the spacers also put the limit stops closer to the stops on the control arms thus limiting steering. Not a huge concern of mine at the moment given the tires almost get into the fender lips anyway. I need to install the swaybar to make sure nothing gets into the end-links.

Here are some before and after pics.

The other option would be to order a set of Baer Trackers

http://baer.com/products?page=shop.b...egory_id=15956

I had a similar problem with my front wheel ( wrong back space with drop spindles )

[youthpastor]

Originally Posted by Payton King

Just don't paint it, hit it with some primer and off you go. Get it up and driving first as it always seems there will be something you need to change or a few problems to chase down. Once it is sorted, then you can paint it.

Same goes for the interior.

Have fun, looking forward for it being complete.

yep...put it together and enjoy, then worry about the paint later. Love the stance. Hang in there. Life has a way of getting in the way of our hobbies. It is a really cool car- oh and congrats!

[BBC71Nova]

Originally Posted by syborg tt

The other option would be to order a set of Baer Trackers

http://baer.com/products?page=shop.b...egory_id=15956

I had a similar problem with my front wheel ( wrong back space with drop spindles )

Marty, do you have any spacers between the steering arm and rod end in that photo? I had been looking at Baer Tracker and other bumpsteer type kits as an alternative. I think the rod end is a little smaller than a tie-rod and that alone will help the clearance issue. I'm gonna try and crudely check bumpsteer today or tomorrow and see where it is.

Thanks

[syborg tt]

Originally Posted by BBC71Nova

Marty, do you have any spacers between the steering arm and rod end in that photo? I had been looking at Baer Tracker and other bumpsteer type kits as an alternative. I think the rod end is a little smaller than a tie-rod and that alone will help the clearance issue. I'm gonna try and crudely check bumpsteer today or tomorrow and see where it is.

Thanks

John shoot me an e-mail and I will send you and extra set that I have on my shelf. Test it out and see if it works and then order yourself a set.

The one I have is for an s10 but you will be able to see if it helps your clearance issue

mr2879sy @ aol.com