Mark (Stielow's) new ride??

[carbuff]

Originally Posted by Stielow

The safest thing to do was bow out and fix it correctly.

Mark

Agreed, although sorry to hear it...

[NAPA 68]

At last.....................a bunch of pics!

http://www.superchevy.com/features/1...g-1969-camaro/

[Build-It-Break-it]

Thank you for posting that. Very cool

[stan65]

Mark,

First of all Love your cars! Hope to see a DETAILED build on this car!

I am an the midst of installing an LT4 in a 71 Firebird. I see you went vacuum brake booster for the brakes. The instructions that came with the LT4 said use a vacuum pump as using a vacuum brake booster will have issues under boost?

What did you do? Pump or no Pump? If you used a pump which one did you use?

Thanks,
Stan

[dontlifttoshift]

Mark, or anyone else following along. Thoughts on PCV plumbing for a dry sump LT4?

I see this.



Earlier in this thread there was a pic of what appeared to be -10? lines on the valve covers.

From what I can gather, GM ran a line from the air intake tube and a line from each valve cover to the dry sump tank. Is the Pro Vent on Gunner in line between the valve cover and tank or intake and tank?

......or is the Pro Vent the fresh air intake/blow off for the PCV system period.

[Stielow]

Originally Posted by stan65

Mark,



First of all Love your cars! Hope to see a DETAILED build on this car!



I am an the midst of installing an LT4 in a 71 Firebird. I see you went vacuum brake booster for the brakes. The instructions that came with the LT4 said use a vacuum pump as using a vacuum brake booster will have issues under boost?



What did you do? Pump or no Pump? If you used a pump which one did you use?



Thanks,

Stan

The instructions are wrong. You don’t need a vacuum pump. The vacuum pump is for cold start on the stock car. So don’t park you car on a hill and deplete your booster and take off quickly on a 0 degree day and you will be fine....

It is Engineeringly correct yes. Do you have to have it with a stock LT4 with out cats. No.

Mark


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[Stielow]

Originally Posted by dontlifttoshift

Mark, or anyone else following along. Thoughts on PCV plumbing for a dry sump LT4?



I see this.







Earlier in this thread there was a pic of what appeared to be -10? lines on the valve covers.



From what I can gather, GM ran a line from the air intake tube and a line from each valve cover to the dry sump tank. Is the Pro Vent on Gunner in line between the valve cover and tank or intake and tank?



......or is the Pro Vent the fresh air intake/blow off for the PCV system period.

I ran 2 -8 line off the valve covers and tee them together to a -10 line. That line goes to the top of the Peterson dry sump tank. Then a hose (I think 3/4) comes off the top of the tank to the Pro Vent 100 (3931070793). Then a -10 line comes off the Pro Vent to the inlet tube behind the MAF sensor.

I have experimented with the other Pro Vent 100 part numbers and that is the one that has worked for me.

The Pro Vent has a drain with a one way check valve that drains back into the dry sump tank. (I need to look up the part number it is a Mann &Hummel part)

The dry sump tank has been modified to add 4 extra quarts. This is so the oil level is not as critical because you are checking it with a dip stick.

I know it is a expensive system. But it works great. I’ve done this on 3 cars so far and I really like it. Keep the engine bay oil free and keeps the engine happy.

Hope this helps


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[dontlifttoshift]

Thanks Mark, that is really helpful.

[dontlifttoshift]

Mann Hummel part no for the check valve is 2400843621.

That will works with Pro Vents 100/150/200.

Here is the catalog if anyone else wants it. https://www.mannfiltersrus.com/pub/m...ilation_EN.pdf


Now I have more questions, it appears that you only need the check valve if you are draining back above the oil level.....?

Oil return The respective port of the oil return (see diagram on page 15) is connected to the oil sump via a drainage pipe. There are two principal connection possibilities:
1. Below the oil level The oil return is connectedvia a drainage pipe below the minimum permissible oil level of the engine oil sump. According to the principle of connected pipes, the same oil level is present in the oil sump and the drainage pipe. This oil receiver acts like a siphon so that when the oil is sucked from the outlet port the blow-by is directed via the oil separator. The negative pressure in the oil return pipe during operation is the same as the negative pressure at the oil separator. As opposed to conventional solutions, this intake negative pressure is reduced due to design considerations so that the height of the oil column in the drainage pipe during operation is accordingly low. As a result the drainage pipe need only take into account a respectively low oil column and this enables numerous installation possibilities.

2. Above the oil level This connection variation requires fitting of a check valve which is available as an option. The valve is fitted in the drainage pipe is close to the engine as possible. Separated oil collects above the check valve during operation. The check valve is closed during operation by the negative suction pressure present in the housing of the ProVent. When the weight of the oil column is above the closing pressure of the valve, for example when the engine has been switched off, the separated oil flows back to the oil sump.

If we plumb the Pro Vent as Mark described in the clean side, between the air intake and the dry sump tank, which way is the air flowing? Normal operation, fresh air flows through the air filter, past the MAF, into a hose through the Pro Vent and into the tank. No need for an air oil separator in situation.

Under heavy load, that air flow reverses, out of the tank into the Pro Vent up the hose and into the intake tube. We don't want oil there at all.

Do we follow the arrows on the pro vent for for the former or the latter?

This may become painfully obvious when I hold it in my hand.

Thanks again!

[mfain]

Originally Posted by dontlifttoshift

Mann Hummel part no for the check valve is 2400843621.

That will works with Pro Vents 100/150/200.

Here is the catalog if anyone else wants it. https://www.mannfiltersrus.com/pub/m...ilation_EN.pdf


Now I have more questions, it appears that you only need the check valve if you are draining back above the oil level.....?

If we plumb the Pro Vent as Mark described in the clean side, between the air intake and the dry sump tank, which way is the air flowing? Normal operation, fresh air flows through the air filter, past the MAF, into a hose through the Pro Vent and into the tank. No need for an air oil separator in situation.

Under heavy load, that air flow reverses, out of the tank into the Pro Vent up the hose and into the intake tube. We don't want oil there at all.

Do we follow the arrows on the pro vent for for the former or the latter?

This may become painfully obvious when I hold it in my hand.

Thanks again!

Thanks for posting the catalog. I also have other questions that will require some thought. I am using a large, 5-stage pump that will pull a lot of vacuum. The pump manufacturer suggested I use a vacuum regulator (available from Peterson) to control the vacuum at 12-14 hgM. I am concerned that if I ever reached a positive crankcase pressure situation (my engine builder says I won't) there would be no pressure relief and I might blow oil through the seals. Peterson also makes a check valve designed to release pressure (back to the tank) for that condition, but I'm not sure I need it. My motor goes on the dyno Thursday so maybe I will get a better feel for how I should proceed after I see what the crankcase vacuum looks like. Any thoughts from you or Mark? Thanks

Pappy