I give up with brake bleeding

[vstol]

Originally Posted by Hydratech

Click on this link for an expanded view:

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/images/3007.jpg

Take a good close look for reference. You will see I have designed this particular system to place the brake assist unit on center with the top two mounting points where your master cylinder is currently mounted. The C3 factory manual brake master cylinder design has two studs protruding from the firewall with the MC hole in the firewall on center of these two bolts, so the top two holes in the billet mounting plate on this brake unit will fasten there to the factory MC studs. Now 2.885" lower from the top two master cylinder mounting points are two 5/16" bolts going into your firewall / steering column support structure. This is where the lower two fastener points are in this manual to power brake conversion system. This system is angled downward just enough to stay out of hood clearance issues. This system is actually vastly easier to install than the poor guys that have a factory power brake system, as they have to fight four vacuum booster mounting nuts out from under the dash to unbolt the booster (then schedule a chiropractic appointment the day after). By contrast, you get to hit "the big red easy button" as all of your work is going to be pleasant because everything bolts from the engine compartment side nice and clean and simple. The only under dash diving you will have to do is establish the connection to the brake pedal (with this system providing a design that allows you set the brake pedal height wherever you may want it by spinning the brake assist unit's brake pedal rod in or out of the horseshoe clevis). This system will also have you use your existing manual brake connection point on the pedal, so you will definitely have to go with the larger 1.125" bore MC (Wilwood 260-8556P or Wilwood 260-8556BK) if you want to go that route. Or? We have a few other MC's you could look at available through us. Note that we do outsource the Wilwood MC's for customers upon request as needed, matching Summit Racing's Pricing at $239.95:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-8556p

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-8556-bk

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/mastercylinders.html

Your LS3 pump and C4 rack are a very popular proven combination, so this will also be simple to connect the PS plumbing. Here is a general schematic of the plumbing for basic reference (courtesy of Concept One):

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/images/PShoserouting.JPG

Here is the hose assembly tutorial:

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/hosetech.html

For advanced system installation reading (note that "Photobucket ransom" has caused many images to no longer appear):

http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/8...es-w-Hydratech

Also, scroll down to the bottom of this (old) web page to see the C3 Vette feedback:

http://hydratechbraking.com/testimonials_old/

We also have three different levels of preparation available - scroll further down this web page to see the details and expandable photography:

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/products.html

I suggest you give my guy Jim Petty a call to discuss:

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/contact.html

I apologize, but I am not available for telephone calls (just way too much going on during the day to get involved with 15 - 45 minute phone calls (which is why I have Jim Petty). I have sent him a link to this forum discussion so that he knows what we have been talking about.

There IS a difference – Thank you for choosing Hydratech!

Paul I called the line today no answer and sent and email missed ya. I will try to contact you tomorrow or call me at the info I gave in the info, thanks

[Hydratech®]

Hi Kevin - Sorry about that... Monday's are either very quiet (with Jim playing card games on the PC bored stiff) *OR* crazy on fire. Today happened to be the crazy on fire Monday - Jim was totally overwhelmed = sorry that you couldn't get through appropriately. I saw your e-mail that you sent in, and forwarded it to Jim with instructions to give you a jingle. Is there a best time for you to take a call? Please note that Jim is only in the office from 10am to 3pm CST (live local time clock on our contact us web page).

[vstol]

Originally Posted by Hydratech

Hi Kevin - Sorry about that... Monday's are either very quiet (with Jim playing card games on the PC bored stiff) *OR* crazy on fire. Today happened to be the crazy on fire Monday - Jim was totally overwhelmed = sorry that you couldn't get through appropriately. I saw your e-mail that you sent in, and forwarded it to Jim with instructions to give you a jingle. Is there a best time for you to take a call? Please note that Jim is only in the office from 10am to 3pm CST (live local time clock on our contact us web page).

Great I will call again as I am in VA. Busy is good

[GregWeld]

All good info.....


I have a couple (3 and building a 4th) race cars.... ran Thunderhill this weekend - Wilwood 1" MANUAL master cylinder... Wilwood 6 piston front - 4 piston rears.....

I'm running down into turn one at 135 to 140 mph..... and then have 14 more turns to negotiate after that - lap after lap. Never needed anything other than my foot and I can stand the car on it's nose... I don't even run an aggressive pad. I prefer to buy cheap pads over Spec 37 rotors.

I have the bias set so when I'm threshold braking -- I know I've hit that point when the rears chatter (hop) and the ass is in the air and the nose is digging a hole - that way I know to let up just a bit.... it's a "telltale".

[vstol]

Originally Posted by vstol

Great I will call again as I am in VA. Busy is good

Jim gave me a call and very helpful, thanks

[vstol]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

All good info.....


I have a couple (3 and building a 4th) race cars.... ran Thunderhill this weekend - Wilwood 1" MANUAL master cylinder... Wilwood 6 piston front - 4 piston rears.....

I'm running down into turn one at 135 to 140 mph..... and then have 14 more turns to negotiate after that - lap after lap. Never needed anything other than my foot and I can stand the car on it's nose... I don't even run an aggressive pad. I prefer to buy cheap pads over Spec 37 rotors.

I have the bias set so when I'm threshold braking -- I know I've hit that point when the rears chatter (hop) and the ass is in the air and the nose is digging a hole - that way I know to let up just a bit.... it's a "telltale".

I had the Wilwood 15/16ths as you know and could not stop very well at 40 mph. I have another manual 15/16ths, new ready to go so I'm thinking that maybe try that first then Hydratech or bite the bullet now.

[Vegas69]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

All good info.....


I have a couple (3 and building a 4th) race cars.... ran Thunderhill this weekend - Wilwood 1" MANUAL master cylinder... Wilwood 6 piston front - 4 piston rears.....

I'm running down into turn one at 135 to 140 mph..... and then have 14 more turns to negotiate after that - lap after lap. Never needed anything other than my foot and I can stand the car on it's nose... I don't even run an aggressive pad. I prefer to buy cheap pads over Spec 37 rotors.

I have the bias set so when I'm threshold braking -- I know I've hit that point when the rears chatter (hop) and the ass is in the air and the nose is digging a hole - that way I know to let up just a bit.... it's a "telltale".

I had the same set up on my car. It was great on the road course.

The street is a different ball game. Cold pads and way less friction.

[Hydratech®]

I do actually indeed suggest that you pop the other MC in to see what happens. It's already sitting there, so why not try it? I am a mega gearhead, and would definitely install the alternate MC myself to see what may happen before moving forward with anything else, especially as easy as it is to do a back to back MC swap out (providing you don't have to get into brake line port adapters or any changes with the brake lines).

TIP: Absolutely positively thoroughly bench bleed the MC first (off of the car literally in a bench vise, of course, right?) - view the links below. I strongly suggest the port plug method as opposed to the old school hose method for MC bench bleeding (it's vastly more conclusive than the hose method). Once that is done: Air does not go down brake lines when a MC is disconnected. As such, place a big fat towel underneath the MC to catch the brake fluid, disconnect the lines from your current MC, cap the brake lines with some generic vacuum caps for the moment. Yank the (dripping) current MC out (plug the ports quickly if possible to prevent the mess). Bolt the new MC in with the bleeding port plugs still in place. Now yank the little vacuum caps off of the brake lines and plug them into the new MC as quickly as you can, BUT do not tighten them down all of the way. Why? If you wait for both loosely connected lines to start steadily dripping, this has bled this part of the braking system out, not requiring you to get into a full on four wheel brake bleed session again (unless you believe there could be air still strapped somewhere in the system).

http://hydratechbraking.com/braketech1.html

http://www.hydratechbraking.com//ima...BleedSheet.JPG

Let us know how the alternate MC behaves - we're all here to help!

[Hydratech®]

Street braking versus road course / track braking are definitely very very different scenarios. Track only / mostly? Fits Greg Welds comments, thoughts, and suggestions. Street use? That's a whole different world. Scrubbing off high speeds - say 150 down to 90 for a turn speaks more of the thermal capacity of the brakes. Street braking from 70 to zero is significantly different arena speaking much more so of instant clamping force available.

Here is a fun video:

Super Chevy Magazine exclaims, "In our history of vehicle testing, we have never had a car stop in this short of a distance!"


https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=CpUy9wcAtJY


http://www.classicperform.com/Projec...rojectNova.htm

[vstol]

Paul what is the main difference between yours and CPP's Hydra stop? Thanks